Gary Lewis

Pricing discussions are fine on here. It is your call.

Excellent! I can use the compressor off the '90.

I think you can see why I like to put up the factory charts - there are so many variables that it is frequently very hard to answer someone’s questions without asking several more. In this case, do you have A/C or not, and is it integral or dealer-installed. Much easier to let you check it out for yourself. 😉

Wait. So now you want the alternator and cast air pump bracket from the right side too? I thought you said not going to go serpentine? I hope it's all still there. I'll get over too the plant within the hour. Yes. Sorry to have confused you. No worries if it isn’t there as I’ll have the stuff from the ‘90. Was just wanting to have a complete set.

Thanks! That’ll make things easier.

Oh no! Still a 2G!? Bill - I hope you don’t need that harness as I’d like to have it to go with the alternator and the PDC.

Sounds like a plan, Stan. Bill - Over to you on the 3G harness. Do you need it? I’ll have the one from the ‘90, but worry that it won’t connect easily to the harness from the ‘95, so would like to have it if you don’t need it. But, if you do need it then it is yours.

When I go winterize the boat tomorrow I’ll reach over and pat the pump and solenoids. 😈 They are where I pulled the batteries from, and are easily accessible with the engine cover raised. In fact, with the exception of the trim tab pump, everything is handy, and the trim tab pump isn’t too bad if you raise the engine past where the electric lift can take it. But that cover is heavy, and it is a chore to raise it with one arm and put the prop I fashioned in with the other. Once that’s done access to the transom and the trim tab pump is easy.

As previously said, you are a prince - even if the ZF plug doesn’t turn up. 😉 Can you give me a list of parts you are shipping to me? I got the price list for many of the parts from Jonathan’s favorite salvage, so can add it up. Thanks again. 👍

Unlike my slash & burn techniques. Yesterday I spent a few hours sorting, cleaning and wrapping parts. I did *no* cleaning of harnesses.... Got the pump pulley off so I could remove it from the bracket. (Gary, do you want the tensioner assy? ) Bought a full set of garter clip removal tools and now have Bill's fuel lines off the rails and cleaned up. Reassembled my engine stand. Hopefully today is the day to pull the engine, gearbox and Gary's crossmember. I also have to sort out the trim pump solenoids on the boat. (this is related because the truck is used to launch it) Need to go up to the airport with a drum and pick up 50 gallons of 101 'blue' at the prop hanger on the back side of the field. Having a pilot friend works out sometimes. Jim - I was in no way referencing your process. You are getting things done, extremely rapidly. Just wait until you see how slow I am. As for the tensioner, with it would I have a full set of serpentine components? If so, I’d better have it unless someone else needs it. Trim pump solenoids? Man, those were a bear on my OMC. Looked like Ford starter solenoids, but were supposedly sealed. Used to drill the rivets, clean the contacts, and put the cover back with machine screws. Glad this Mercury doesn’t have the same arrangement.

Since our new member, xlt351cOZ, is having transmission troubles I added a couple more pages today: Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/General Manual Transmission Service Driveline/Transmission/Manual Transmissions/T-18

If you do want to rebuild it I have the workshop manual chapters for some of the transmissions here: Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/General Manual Transmission Service Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/NP435 Driveline/Transmission/Manual Transmissions/T-18 Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/T-19 Note that yours may be a T-18 and not a T-19 since that tranny was only behind the 460 and diesel, but they are very similar transmissions.

Looks like the piece above the windshield is the same, regardless, as there is only one part number. As for the hinges, they apparently changed in '88 as the prefix on the part number shown below is "E8". But they obviously fit back through 1980. Anyway, I'd guess that the different hinge came in with the new hinge in '88. Shoot me an email with your address and I'll get the stuff shipped in a couple of days, although things are pretty busy at the mo and it may be early next week.

The page at Engines/Drive Belts should have the info. See the lines for "T/E", which means "thermactor emission control system".

Yes, it is a lot of work. But, being done in a controlled and thoughtful fashion. I'm impressed. As for the Gremlin, what's the plan?

The TSB is dated 1983, and says "It consists of an in-tank fuel pump, inertia shut-off switch, motorized fuel selector valve, vapor separator, and a vapor return system, along with related fuel lines and electrical wiring and devices." But didn't the early 460's have mechanical pumps? So, none of them had fuel vapor problems? There was no provision for them? That's my confusion.

They may have made the same mistake I made. Drilling and riveting is a lot safer than stapling. Anyway, glad they are done. You can soon finish peeling this layer off the onion.

Welcome to the forum! We are here to help you, as well as share your journey. I had an NP435 that would pop out of gear on deceleration unless it was crammed into gear. But sometimes the synchros make it very difficult to get fully into gear. My first move would be to drain and refill the tranny to see if better fluid would help shifting. As for the 351C, lots of guys here love them. I like the family, but will use the longer-stroked M-block in Dad's truck. And, by the way, the best Cleveland guru anywhere is Tim Meyer, who has his own aluminum block, intake manifold, thermostats, etc.

Cool! Haven't heard of an F200 either. Hmmm, I wonder if Dad's truck ought to be a 200?

Gary, what about this? https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/t18-t19/ David - I need to look at that chart. Sorry that I haven't. As for what I did do today, I took the opportunity to "play" on the website. You see, I've been on a two-week road trip of 10 states and 3000 miles, and couldn't work on it while gone - as discussed elsewhere. But, I have had an opportunity to watch the search statistics for the site, meaning the number of times that Google pointed people to this site to answer their query. And, it is important to me that people can find this site so all the work that is being done gets used. I've posted a screenshot, below, of the stats for the last 28 days as of today. I realize you can't easily read it, so I'll point out some of the more significant things. First, 29 people were pointed to the site by Google yesterday alone, and the average position in the search results was 13, which means that on the average we were on Paul Harvey's Page 2. The thing that Google usually points our way is the towing capacity of these trucks, and the usual position in the search results is #2! And, in the last 28 days 39 people have followed Google's suggestion and clicked on the link. So, what is pulling the average result down? Two things: Fuel Vapor Separator, which averages position 9.8, and Motorcraft 2150, which averages 18.6. Given that, today I addressed the fuel vapor separator portion of the problem. And, I discovered that the TSB to which it used to refer is no longer applicable since it was replaced in 1983. So, I found the newer TSB and added it to the site: Stalls/No Start/Hesitation/Stumble. As it turns out, it wasn't just the 460's that got the in-tank pump and the vapor separator, as the 351M/400's got the kit outlined in the TSB. In fact, the only 460 that got it was in an E-series van. Anyway, we now have another TSB and a corrected page on the fuel vapor separator.

Pete - First, I have two upper door hinges that have the S-spring. Second, I have some of what you need to install a headliner. Here's the diagram from this page: Interior/Rear Corner Trim: Of that, I have the piece that goes above the windshield (03606), although you may already have that. And I have the two pieces that go above the doors (51756), the one that goes above the rear window (42410), and the one that goes below the rear window (42456). But, I don't have spares of the ones that go on the A-pillar (03598) nor the B-pillar one. In fact, I need to find good ones of those for Dad's truck. Anyway, any and all of the above is your for the shipping cost. Here's a pic of the tan set that I have, but I also have a blue set. I see in this pic that the piece that goes above the windshield has a bit of a bend, and while it isn't noticeable you are welcome to the blue one if you'd rather.

Yes, the problem was probably due to brittle plastic. So if you are using new door panels you might not have a problem. But I wouldn’t chance it. Pop rivets hold the piece tightly to the panel, probably even better than staples.

It is tempting to throw all the tech available at this to-be iPad replacement. But, I have the whiz-bang laptop to which I can turn for serious portable work, or the fairly competent shop desktop for really serious work. So what I’m looking for is a niche machine. Something that can run CAD, but might be slow rendering 3D. I’m leaning to one with the i5 processor instead of the faster i7. That saves a bundle of money, but still has adequate memory, probably 8 gig, and 256 gig of storage. Plus, several of the brands have eliminated the fan with that processor, so it makes no noise - just like this iPad. But, I’ll bet it’s input won’t lag like just happened on this thing - I typed “just like this iPad” and nothing happened. And then it typed it out one character at a time. Thanks, iOS 11. 😡

No! Don’t staple it!!! Been there, done that, and broke the door panel. Instead, use pop rivets with the appropriate washers to spread the load. I think a 3/16” diameter rivet would be more than enough, and a smaller one should do adequately.

I’m familiar with Boot Camp as I tried it on my MacBook several years ago. But from what I read the iOS devices can’t run Boot Camp as they run an ARM processor. So I’m pretty sure I want a full-blown Windows tablet.