Gary Lewis

It is possible for the key tumbler not to turn the ignition switch fully off, so do check that. The best way that I know is to adjust it, as shown here: Electrical/Ignition Switch.

Yes, I've had a wonderful Thanksgiving, and hope you are as well. Had a good time with many of my cousins, and even tried the Black Friday sales for the first time, ever. Not a bad experience at all.

I can see the reason for doing it like this but has anyone had issues with the batt. not charging because it does not see what the batt. is at but a false reading right at the ALT. Do you know where the stock ALT sensing wire ran to? On another make/model it is up in the harness to the inside power feed. I have heard from some using the GM 1 wire ALT's on cars about the batt. not charging. What if you made the loop up to the mega fuse but before it not after. This way it would be a little closer to the batt. but still protect the ALT. Dave ---- Dave - If you have good connections and decent cables the readings may be slightly different as the alternator is throwing its max output. But as the voltage on the battery comes up and approaches that of the alternator the current flow will drop, as will the voltage difference. So there will be essentially no difference in readings at that point.

Here's to good health and continuing our projects. Hang in there, Steve. Hope your Thanksgiving was a good one and you get to enjoy the truck.

I know nothing about Mopars, but that appears to be a '71 R/T in F7 green.

Roger - You are right about Ford's parts catalog. In their infinite wisdom they frequently deleted numbers when they were replaced by a later part or when they were no longer available - to Ford. But, some of them are floating around "out there" and come up for sale from time to time and we can't figure out what they are since the numbers are no longer in the catalog. Most, if not all of us, are working from the 1994 version of the catalog, the one available on CD. And by then many things were no longer shown in the catalog. Fortunately I have on loan a set of microfiche of the catalog as of 1988, and a microfiche viewer. So I do have a chance of finding some of the numbers. But, it is a laborious process.

Jim - Now I understand. The thing is already booted up, so any loss of "sense" takes it to full-tilt. Bill - The Huck has a 2G and I have a freshly-rebuilt 2G in the attic. So if Matt needs more smoke I'll ship them to where the waters fall.

I'd forgotten that there were two plugs, but you are right: - C185 & 186:

He's talking about the plug going into the alternator. Ford knew they had a problem so created this: TSB's/2G Alternator Repair. Here's an excerpt: That is a well-thought out (so they didn't have liability) understatement of a viscous circle, meaning that the heat increases the resistance, which increases the heat, which increases the resistance, ......... until something gives. Frequently it is the alternator, but sometimes the truck.

Thanks, Bill. Hope you have a wonderful day. Janey and I are headed to a cousins reunion on my father’s side today, with a little Black Friday shopping late this evening. And Saturday we are hosting Janey’s cousins reunion. So, it is family time!

Yes, Ford went to great lengths to make finding part numbers in the catalog WORK, as Maynard G would have said. And, they were successful. The best way I’ve found to get around the issue of what Ford called it is to find it in an illustration, get the generic part number, and go look that up.

I thought that was an easy one to figure out no? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/2000x1198/80-20171104_171815_3ea9a2879b6917c7e3901d278453fe6aa298c79c.jpg Dave ---- I think there’s a lot more wrong than just the connector in that picture. 🙈

Happy Thanksgiving to each and everyone of you! I know that many of you live where either this isn’t Thanksgiving or you don’t celebrate that holiday. But the idea is still valid - we have so much for which to be thankful, and we don’t do it often enough. So enjoy your family, your health, and your wealth today and give thanks. 😉

Dave - I agree that at first blush the catalog shows what parts came on which trucks, but not what they will interchange with. However, with some digging you can often figure out the interchange bit. For example, on the EFI manifold, if you look at the engine block you might find that the same block was used for several years, and that during that time both EFI and carb intakes were used. So both intakes will bolt to the same block. Same thing on the axles. The frames were the same, but things like the pivot brackets could have changed. And, on the other end, what spindles were used. Those are in the catalog so, with great effort, you can usually figure that out as well. The catalog isn’t easy, and it isn’t perfect, but with a lot of work you can figure a bunch of things out by digging into it.

I had a friend with a ‘65, but don’t remember what engine it had. Was a 4-speed, and knowing him it was probably a turbo.

Cool looking. What are those carbs?

Wasn’t a Monza a hot one?

Strange! Why are the carbs on the ends of the manifolds instead of in the middle? They look perfectly placed to have another one at the other end, but there isn’t one.

I hadn’t noticed that, Bill. But they really did change things, didn’t they. I need to find two good early controls. A really nice one for Dad’s and a nice one for Big Blue. The one I have leaks in the control itself, although I’ve fixed leaks before by pulling them apart and cleaning them, so maybe I can in this one. Then, with the right cables and connectors I’ll try this on Big Blue.

Yes, the intake started life as a stock replacement for the 302 and 351W. Only recently did they come out with the lower for the Cleveland. And with that you can basically bolt together MAF SEFI for the Cleveland and M-block engines. Or, maybe I should include “wire together” as the Bullnose trucks don’t have the provisions for placing the computer where the later trucks did, so lengthening wires will be necessary. And, speaking of computer placement, Bill and I were talking about boots or grommets through which to pass the harness when placing the computer under the driver’s seat. Why not use the right-angle connectors the factory used? I have the ~4” diameter hole in the floor with a plate over it. Remove the plate and cut a hole in it to accept the connector and associated boot. If I remember correctly it was the interior connector on the ‘90 that fit into the firewall, so attach it to the plate, coat the plates edges with sealer, and put it back on. Slide under and attach the engine-side connector to that one.

I know I have a thread going that has been discussing EFI, but that thread is really for the E4OD and the EFI bit has been along for the ride since they are controlled by the same computer. However, if anyone is ever to find this info then they may not do so in an E4OD thread. And, threads are cheap - unless they come from Saville Row. Anyway, today was a watershed day for EFI'ing Dad's engine. First, Ray has the harnesses, coil, EEC-V computer, etc from the 1996 2wd F150 w/a 5.0L all packaged up and is sending it my way. We went back and forth on some things, like the coil, but discovered at the last minute that the one for the '96 is different than the ones I have for the 460's, so needed the later one to fit the harness. And, today we ordered the Trick Flow intake manifolds - plural as there is a lower and an upper. The lower is specific to the Cleveland engines, but the upper fits lowers for both the Cleveland and Windsors. And, to be specific, we ordered the TFS-516B0114, which is the natural aluminum version for a 75mm throttle body. That's because I talked with Harold Miller at Trick Flow and he said that would be a very good fit for my engine, heads, etc. But, he didn't think the unit for a 90mm throttle body would be good as we are targeting low RPM torque and not horsepower. However, you may have caught the "we ordered". That's because Tim actually ordered the parts and is having them shipped to his shop. He's making adaptors to mate Holly's EFI upper for the LS1 to Cleveland lowers, and wants to match it up to the Trick Flow EFI lower. Here's a pic of the LS1 upper mated to a tunnel ram on a Cleveland, and you can see his 3D-printed adaptor, in brown, that mates the upper to the lower: But Harold, Tim, and I agree that the factory-style EFI lower will give much more low-end torque than the tunnel ram given the long runners on the factory-style unit, so that's the way I'm going. And, the Holley upper interferes with the distributor and I'm not ready to go coil-on-plug, so will go with the Trick Flow upper and lower. Here's a pic of them: However, in the truck the upper needs to turn 180 degrees and point toward the driver's side. Fortunately they are symmetrical and it can be put on that way. That then begs the question of "will it fit". So, I've been trying to find the dimensions of the parts, to no avail. But, when Tim called and was ready to order I took that as the impetus needed and called Trick Flow. Fortunately they had this drawing, although not ready-to-hand they did get it to me pretty quickly. With some scaling I was able to find the center point and then used Big Blue as a model. Measuring from the air cleaner stud on the Edelbrock I located an inlet air tube that Jim sent me, and positioned it. Here's where it would go, but you have to use your imagination a bit to "see" the manifolds and the throttle body. Given that I realized it will fit, and pulled the trigger. I'm not sure when Tim is supposed to see the parts, but he's crashing getting ready for a show and I think he's wanting to show this adaptor as well. So, we should see pics soon.

I got a bit more done on the how-to tab on the HVAC/Integral AC page. I've now realized that there are multiple ways to solve the heat problem. In fact, Bill proposed a new one with a vacuum solenoid and valve which will work with the later controls. So I created tabs for each of the ways and intend to flesh out each of them. However, today I drilled the vacuum header/connector for the early controls and added a piece of plastic tubing that The Huck gave up. So, it is ready to go when the time comes to put that in Dad's truck. And, I took pics and put them in the tab, which means I think that tab is done, and I'll get to the other tabs after I am thankful and recover from overeating. Dave - Here's the pic for the ends of the 1980 - 82 cable:

That’s not very good life from plug wires. Glad you found the problem. But for spares, could you carry one known-good long wire?

Does the head off the 240 raise the compression ratio on a 300?

Yes, $39 sounds about right.