Gary Lewis

The 14.8 might be a bit high, but I'll guess that the battery was down a bit and the regulator brought it up a bit to charge it quickly. And, assuming it is cool that isn't an issue for a short period. So, I'd give it a try and see what happens. Congrat's!

I have an Enco 13x40 lathe: And a Grizzly G3617 mill:

What? You doubt the brilliance of the Ford engineers who gave us the little rings on the back of the glovebox door? Anyway, that's actually a good idea. As I've said in the list on the whiteboard, it is a looooong way to the North Rim from here. By Google's measurements it is 1,132 miles and will take 17 hrs 22 min, although that is probably w/o stops. So, we will need some amenities, and drink holders would be high on the list. I have a little drink holder/catchall that currently sits on the floor in front of the seat. That might suffice, but it is a stretch for everyone. However, if it is only the two of us going then we could strap it to the seat itself to make it handy. Another option would be bucket seats. I have the ones destined for Dad's truck, and if we weren't expecting to get things dirty I could bolt them and the associated console in, and the console has drink holders. All of that is a direct bolt-in, but I'm afraid of getting the seats filthy.

Looks like you have the problem solved. Well done! And, thanks for the followup.

Glad it worked! As for the other problems, I just typed "While replacing the engine I will also install the ZF5. And, while that would seem to be a very simple thing, something is bound to require a bit more work than just going back with the T-19." So, I've been there, done that, and feel your pain.

Ken - Advice from a wise man. After creating a new "whiteboard" (Upgrades For Big Blue) on which to capture what I think I need to do to Big Blue in order to have him ready for such a trip, I'm somewhat taken aback by the list. So, continuing with the carb and tuning it when we get there or, for that matter, at a roadside stop on the way, would seem to be the best approach. So, folks, please review the whiteboard and see what I've missed.

There is an active thread called Upgrades To Big Blue For Overlanding? You are welcome to comment there, but what follows here is my brainstorming of what I am going to want to do for the truck electrically: Relays: I will want these relays, and hopefully the PDB will have enough room: Key On: This will power the voltmeter awa other things Low-Beam Headlights: High-Beam Headlights: Fog/Driving Lights Power Feed: I'll use the harness from the '96 CA truck which will bring the power across the radiator support to a power distribution center in front of the master cylinder. But the wire to that box may not be large enough to charge the auxiliary battery. The fuselinks are #12's and there are two of them in parallel and they are only about 4" long. Aux Battery: It will be charged via the Cole-Hersee Smart Isolator, which should be located either near the PDB or near the aux battery. Inverter: The power from the inverter comes directly from the aux battery, so there will need to be a megafuse at the battery. Then a cable should run back to the current aux battery relay on the firewall, and from there down under the cab and up into the cab to the inverter.

Thanks!!!

Took the tranny in and had a good conversation with Charles. Didn't get into the details too much as he hadn't done the research yet on which torque converter he thinks we should use, but he did say that one of the biggest problems with the E4 is overheating due to unlocking the converter - just what Bill has been saying. So I told him of my plan to keep it locked until 80% of WOT and he thought that is a good idea. Anyway, he will pull the tranny apart, probably on Monday, and give me a call about what he finds. Like, what needs to be replaced, what upgrades are in it, etc. And, at that time he will have done the research so we can talk about the details and agree the plan. But, he did say that the pan he will use is a 4R100 pan, which fits the E4 and has the drain plug. And, he will use a later case than mine to take the re-usable gasket.

Bill - I'll check later on the vacuum. But, one of the reasons it would be easy to SD big blue is that Huck is already set up for it and I have everything. See the pic below for the O2 sensor, which has the appropriate harness. So, I could go with the EFI intake and heads, but also the exhaust off of Huck with that O2 sensor. I have the rest of it with mufflers, so would just have to weld it back together and bolt it on. Obviously that does away with the L&L headers, but..... Now for an update. Dropped the E4OD off at the tranny shop, which will be 'splained on that thread, soon. Then stopped at 4 Wheel Parts, where I got the winch and other things. Talked to Corey Marshall, who said he will sign up on here as he has an '86 Bronco and wants to find a Bullnose shortbed. Anyway, he also has a '96 F250 setup for overlanding and gave me a bunch of good tips about equipment as well as how to find places to overland in this region. More on that later. Anyway, here's the pic of the rear of Huck, and you can see the O2 sensor in the lower left corner. It serves both exhaust pipes from its one location.

Sure! If you find one. I'll have to find a pic of the OBD-II port's location, but the port itself will be exactly like that on any modern vehicle. So, if the truck has that port it should be the MAF/SF setup. And a pic of the engine would probably prove that theory. Thanks!

Will do, Bill. But it'll be high teens if not 20" and pretty steady - unless there really is a miss at idle, which is something I need to chase. Are you saying that a smooth idle with strong vacuum suggests that I have a strong engine with essentially stock spec's, and that SD will work?

Jonathan - You have a very valid point. Simplicity is a good thing, especially when going to remote locations. And the existing Eddy is simple. Plus, I can tune it. In fact, if I were to put the wideband O2 meter on it would be easy to tune. My guess is that I could set the carb up with a jet/rod combo that would be good for the ~700' elevation where I live, and then swap just the rods to get a good combo at 8000' on the North Rim. And rod swaps are duck soup - pull the air cleaner, loosen a screw, swivel the plate out of the way, swap the rod, and reverse the above procedure. As for when to go, there is a remote chance we could get things together in time to go in late Spring of 2018, which I've read is an ideal time as the plants are blooming. A better chance for 2018 would be around Thanksgiving as the crew did in that link. But, my son has already said that we shouldn't go alone, so I know he would welcome you. And, you know that I would.

Bill - Are you saying I might as well go SD/BF? I have everything I need in order to do that, so might as well use it? The speed-density system doesn't adapt well to changes, but other than a probable compression increase and the very mild Edelbrock Performer cam, Big Blue has a rather stock 460. Would the SD system work with the minor changes? Man, that would make it easier.

True, Bill. But there will be ample torque to move it, and quickly, w/o spinning the engine up. And keeping the stall speed low minimizes the heating when the torque converter is unlocked.

Dyn - Would you check to see if your P&P has any 1996 or '7 F250's with a 460 and a OBD-II port? That combo should be an EEC-V computer with mass air flow sensor (MAF) and sequential-fire (SF). Thanks! Pete - Glad Dyn is looking out for you as I don't have the grommets.

The camshaft is quite mild and the idle has no lope. So I want a torque converter with a low stall speed.

Maybe not. I don't know what causes the ABS light to come on. This issue causes one side of the brake system to keep some pressure in the system. So, would that turn the ABS light on?

Getting a new torque converter. And it is upgraded but I don't know the details yet as we have to settle on them today. I should be able to report back later on them. But, it will be a later case that takes the new reusable gasket as well as a pan with a drain plug. Those details we have settled on.

Young whippersnappers! There was a day when I may have been able to do that. But, as the guy from Aspen and I discussed, it is quite a lift getting it in the back of a truck, and even more so Big Blue. So, I might have been able to carry it out there, but getting it up into the bed would have been difficult if not impossible at my age. A great man once said "A man's got to know his limitations." And mine are becoming more and more apparentl.

Bill - Somehow I missed this. Sorry, but thanks for it. Ok, not likely to find a 460 with MAF/SF, so go with something like a 351. But, you said E4OD, and I think you forgot that Big Blue is a manual, currently with a T-19 and soon to be a ZF5. Don't I need a computer from a truck with a manual tranny? Or, can the auto part of the code be turned off? Jonathan - You are even closer to the left coast. Does your salvage have any CA trucks? Like a '96 or '97 F250 w/a 460 that has the OBD-II port? And, by the way, have you done this trip? Would you be interested in doing it? Anyway, this is all speculation on the need for EFI. I know I proposed it, but creates a huge amount of work. I've taken carbed vehicles to the South Rim and had no problem. So, if took a Strip Kit for the Eddy might I get by with the carb? I realize that the time to do it is when the engine is out, as the heads and intake have to be swapped and they are massive. But, that would be a LOT of work. As for where we are in the planning, I think my son is very interested. We've batted back and forth a number of ideas of things needed, many of which overlap with ones we have discussed here. And, he suggested we do a trial run someplace in the MO, AR, OK, KS area.

Ready for the trip:

I suspect that was on FTE, here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1313748-power-distribution-box-schematic.html As for what to use to trigger the relay, you could use the white/light-blue hash wire that goes to the ignition module, as shown on Page 18 in the 1981 EVTM here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/start-ignition--carb-circuits.html

Gary this is a key feature that is extremely useful, yet not intuitive at all until it is pointed out. I don't know what we can do to advertise this feature, but obviously new users are still going through a lot of extra navigation steps because they don't know... maybe insert the tip in their email notice of membership approval? Jonathan - That's a good idea! I really need to write up a blurb on how the membership process works, and I could include that in there. Or, maybe I should have two files, one that explains how the process works and one that gives tips on using the forum. After all, I am sending them two different emails so why not tailor the message?

Jein - German slang for yes and no. Pull the two bolts holding the master to the booster and tilt the master forward and a bit to the side. You'll see the pushrod. The factory manual gives a precise length the rod should be and warns that if it is too long the brakes won't disengage. And, it shows how to make a U-shaped gauge to measure it, which is otherwise very difficult to do. We guestimated it and got it wrong, so Scott said he knows someone with a laser cutting system and was going to ask him to make that tool.