Gary Lewis

Some old man I know.

I actually thought about doing that before I drained it this time, but he I'm a little chicken to do it right before a long trip after what happened to David. I didn't want to break a bunch of crap loose and clog the screen. If it keeps it up I might do it when I get back and can drive it around close to home. On the heater, pull the blower motor and look in there. That's where lots of stuff goes, and the mice can get to it if the blend door is open/broken. Plus, it is easy to get to in order to clean out. As for the oil, I agree about not doing the clean-out on a long trip. But 45 psi at idle is a lot. So, it looks like the engine is in good shape, although you don't know about how dirty things are. Best to play it safe. And I like the wheels and tires. Big Blue's are wide enough that they can't really sit in like yours w/o rubbing on many turns, but yours fit nicely. And those E's should be good for where you are going.

Yes, these trucks are like onions. We just keep peeling and crying. But, I like onion rings. As for the puppy, it is a Whoodle, which is a Wheaton Terrier/Poodle mix. Here's my wife, Janey, holding it as we picked it up:

Must be the Dog Days of Winter. We are headed to MO to pick up a new puppy for our daughter in Nicaragua. She says the puppy is for the grandtwins, but we can tell it is really for her and they'll get to play with it. However, we get to keep it a week before it heads south with the other grandparents. So, life is going to change here for a bit.

But SPOUT is still used to set initial timing and is, therefore, needed - right? HO2S 21 is not needed, and would be a place for me to put my wideband sensor? EGR: Huck's tube looks good, but I don't want to run EGR, so I can disable it. Sonic disables it or does what? Canister Purge: What is VMV? You are speaking a language that is not yet understood by me. A/C Clutch: Ok, I'll just continue with the current system. I could feed the output of the pressure switch to the ECU though, and even though I don't use the ECU's output to control the clutch, it should still up the idle speed. Data Link: Yes, I understand it wasn't there until '96, but all of this assumes that either the unicorn is available in CA or I use another harness to go MAF. If I go SD then there's a whole 'nother list. As for wiring info, I thought you sent me a spreadsheet or Word doc that had the pinouts for either SD (60 pins) or MAF (104 pins). I know that Ray did and found his, but can't find yours. Am I dreaming?

This is as good a place as any. Hope someone has one.

I wasn't aware that vehicles other than diesels and big trucks had hydro-boost. But, thinking of that, I wonder what my wife's GLK has since it is diesel? Anyway, I am looking forward to better brakes. Big Blue's are just OK, but nothing to write home about. This should make a big change - when the time comes. I'm just planning at this point as I don't want to have him down for reconstruction when my son and I decide to take a weekend trip to try out this overlanding idea. But, once we've done that and are committed then I'll tear into him.

Ok, thanks. But, a couple of questions. Data Link: You said "add", but won't it normally be there? Maybe not on the CA system, but... O2 Sensors: Your EVTM (mine is now on order as I can't imagine doing this w/o one) shows three of them for the CA 7.5L. #'s 11, 12, & 21. So, what am I missing? A/C Clutch: Don't think I want to do it that way as I don't want to change Big Blue's HVAC system. I guess I'll just leave that connection off. SPOUT: You didn't comment. Given that, it looks possible. I was looking at the harnii today and there were sooooo many wires it was seriously off-putting. So, I spent the evening mapping out what really is needed and it doesn't look quite so daunting now. And, I guess when the time comes I will then start with the harness, probably at the PDC, and remove wires not associated with the functions above. Remove the pins from the connectors and tease the wires out of the bundles to pare things down to the necessities. And, that will remove a bunch of wires as well as some connectors. Right?

I'll pull it and we will see. But, can you check something out for me? In my Upgrades For Big Blue whiteboard I've just added a post on what inputs/outputs/sensors I think are needed for a MAF setup. The post is here, so could you see what I'm missing? I arrived at this by using a document Ray sent me that has the EEC-V pinout, wire colors, and uses. (I know you sent me one but I can't find it. Would you, please, send it again?) I converted that to a spreadsheet and went through it pin by pin and compared to the 7.5:L California pages in your 1996 EVTM. (Extremely helpful. So much so that I think I'm going to buy one.) From that I think I've determined what connections I need to use, and then I simplified it to sensors, sorta, on the whiteboard. But, isn't there a MAP sensor for an EEC-V system?

Here are the sensors and input/outputs I think are needed by the MAF system, meaning EEC-V. Note that this is for a manual transmission and I don't plan to run EGR or evap. However, I don't see MAP. MIL: I'll use the existing "Emissions" light above the instruments Data Link: This is the OBD-II connector Low Range: I'll feed the transfer case switch output to the computer Ignition: The TFI module will be connected VSS: The output of the sensor on the speedo output of the t-case will go to the computer O2 Sensors: Two of the three heated oxygen sensors will be used, and each has 4 wires. So the position for the 3rd one will probably be used for my wideband's sensor. MAF: The mass air flow sensor will be used ECT: Engine Coolant Temp IAT: Inlet Air Temp FPM: Fuel Pump Monitor so the computer knows the relay is closed A/C Clutch: The computer normally controls the A/C clutch, but I'm not sure I want it to do that. If I do then I'll have to feed the computer other signals as well. CKP: Crankshaft Position Sensor - which is in the distributor SPOUT: Let's you set the timing by disabling the computer-controlled advance? Fuel Injectors 1-8 IAC: Idle Air Control TPS: Throttle Position Sensor BOO: Brake On/Off switch And, here is the output of a spreadsheet that has all of the pins in the ECU's connector listed, the wire color, circuit number, and the use. This is file EEC Pinouts 1996 CA 460.xlsx from Big Blue/EFI:

I see the panel, but would like a close up of the grille itself. Not sure I know how to find one, but will help all I can. Back side might have some numbers that would help.

The problem, albeit minor, is that both the brake return and the steering return want to use the bottom return port. I know the brake used that one on the 1995 F450 from whence the equipment came because that's exactly where the hose wants to go. And the current return on Big Blue goes there as well. So, one of those will need to change, and I'm sure it will be the steering return. That's because it is just a simple hose while the brake hose is molded onto a metal line that screws into the hydro-boost system. Anyway, that's a very minor problem.

Ok, Bill, I'll pull the HVAC system. But I really don't want to change anything. You are saying I'll have to change the underhood part due to changing the compressor? Bummer! Is it that the lines need to be longer or have different fittings? On the column, Big Blue already has a tilt column, and I have one for Dad's truck as well. But, I'll pull this one anyway. Thanks.

Well, if Huck is my truck: Pulled the power steering bracket and pump off and removed the pump from the bracket. Found that the bracket is broken, but the one from Jim isn't. So, I have a complete serpentine system for Big Blue. Laid out the hydro-boost stuff from Jim and it looks like I only have to get one more hose to make it work. And, that will fix one of the problems on Big Blue since his master cylinder leaks at the gasket 'cause it is rusted. So, not only will I have better brakes but I'll have one of the new plastic master cylinders with a screw-on lid. In fact, it is bigger master than was on Huck. Got the cruise control and throttle linkage off, and discovered that it should work perfectly on Big Blue since he has the old-school cruise control system. And, the throttle cable should also be a perfect fit, but I don't think one of the Bullnose cables would work, so that's serendipitous. After all, it is a looooong way to the North Rim. Pulled the sun visors out with their inner brackets. Originally they were blue, just like Big Blue, but they are ...... "gross", in all of the 60's connotations of that word. Maybe carpet shampoo will clean them as they aren't vinyl but a soft fabric. Got the shift linkage all the way from the tranny to the steering column. And, to get the linkage out of the plastic grommets I used a trick that the guy at the tranny shop suggested - heat. Sure enough, the heat gun made the grommets soft enough that I was able to pull the linkage out and can probably re-use the grommets. So, basically I think I've pulled all of the parts off of Huck that I need to pull. But, Bill mentioned something about the HVAC system. Surely that won't fit the Bullnose trucks? Also, I haven't pulled the steering column. It is a tilt column, but I suspect that the dreaded part is broken as the lock tumbler has been removed and a starter button was rigged up. But, is there a chance that I'll need it for the E4OD shifter part?

That's what I'm thinking as well, Bill. The only difference is that the hydro-boost return goes where the gear usually returns as that's where the hose fits. So the gear must return to the extra return port up on the neck.

Guys - I'm sorting and putting things away since I'm literally knee-deep in parts, and have come up with a question re hydro-boost brakes. (This may be specifically to Jim.) In the pic below I've connected the hydraulic lines to the pump from the 1995 F450 and am pretty sure I understand what each does. But, just to make sure, all I need is a replacement line for the one that is crimped over, which is from the hydro-boost system to the sector box. Right? And, for posterity, here's the whole system: And, here's the difference in the pumps - apparently just an extra return: And, here's a plug for getting LOTS of parts. The bracket from Huck is on the left.

No, I haven't seen anything from Chris of late. He should be working on his house as they were pouring the new concrete floor for the garage a bit ago.

Well done!

Pete - Yes, and no. I have the ability to delete others posts, and you have the ability to lock your own thread in the Projects folder - but only in that folder. However, I would want agreement from the others that posted before deleting their posts. And, in many cases follow-on posts by the original author of the thread reference the posts of others so then there's a missing piece and statements don't make sense. I think the better thing to do would be for you to copy your posts into a new, locked thread. You can easily edit each post and then highlight and copy all of the text, which would include all formatting as well as the picture links. Then paste that into a post on a new thread, and then lock the thread. As you do that you can tweak the wording to take out any references to the posts of others - if needed. And, you can combine posts into one massive post or several smaller ones - whatever is convenient for you. Would that work? If so, have at it. However, I should warn you that in the 5 weeks or so since I created my whiteboard I've not gotten a single comment about my plans in any other thread. So, it is kind of a lonely feeling when you write and write and there's no easy way for others to comment - even though I gave them a link to another thread where they are welcome to comment. It just doesn't happen. (Oddly enough, this isn't what I envisioned when I enabled locking threads. I was just wanting some place for me to record my thoughts and plans and then come back to them w/o having to wade through the comments of others, however well intentioned. But, however y'all want to use the tools works for me. )

You mean they weren't brown?

Your choice on that. And, in Projects it is your choice whether to lock the thread or not. I like comments on my normal project work, so don't want things locked so that others can chime in. But, when you are trying to think things through, having others chime in can be very confusing. Having it locked lets me go back and completely change any and ever aspect of the plan. So, I really have two threads for the same thing. One is the whiteboard for planning, and the other is just an interactive thread. Anyway, hope you get back on track soon.

Folks - If you haven't tried the "whiteboard" idea then you are missing something. By "whiteboard" all I mean is that you can create a thread/topic in the Projects folder and lock it so no one can comment. Then you can post and edit to your heart's content. (Note: That is only true in Projects.) For instance, I have the one for Big Blue and I use it to develop and keep track of my plans. I go back almost daily to upgrade the plans as things progress. And Bill has one on Darth where he is telling the whole story of how he came by the truck, who named it, how the changes came to be, etc. So, again, if you haven't tried it I'd encourage you to do so.

That makes it even easier. I'd go with the one from Amazon. I'm a one-click fan.

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Jim - I stretched those characters to get what you see. But when we get the real measurements then I'll go back and try bold and other options. Just did that to get something to show. But if you, or anyone else, knows what needs to be done to the font then please let me know. Pete - Speed nuts are a good idea. In the pic below you can imagine the stud there, which will be ~.250" in diameter as the holes in the instrument bezel are ~.275". So, a speed nut would probably fit w/o hitting the arm of the switch. Good idea! http://bullnose-enthusiasts.12971.n8.nabble.com/file/n5143/IMG_2933.jpg;cid=1511543874118-384