Gary Lewis

Ray - Hadn't thought about the # of injector wires. Ok, that's a problem. If I'm going to have to run wire I'd like to use the correct colors, so I might as well get a connector with wire from a V8. But, this is for Big Blue so I don't need the transmission wires as he has a manual tranny. So, thanks for the offer on the Ranger EVTM, but let's wait to see where this goes. As you know, I'm tied up for a bit, and when I do get back to trucks I need to get the front end under Dad's truck and the engine and tranny in. Then I can turn to Big Blue. So, right now I'm just doing the research. Or, asking you to do the research? But, if I had the Ranger tray, can I use another connector in it? Or, would I just un-pin the other two injector wires and add them to the Ranger connector? I'll confess, I don't have my head around how the harnesses go together. Or, what harnesses there are.

Ray - Thanks. Does the Ranger tray go into the cab from the engine compartment? Or does it glue in from the inside? If we can find a way or place to put it in I'd like to use the Ranger tray and wiring. (I assume it would have the same wire colors as the bigger trucks.)

I think Old Ford Blue is the correct color for the earlier engines. https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1621-Ceramic-Engine-Paint/dp/B00296DYD8

Bill - I'm getting lost. So let me take it point by point: 1985.5/86 Mounts: Those would be for the EEC-IV tray and I'm going EEC-V. Are they the same? Or, will the V tray bolt in where a IV goes? Above HVAC case: I think you are suggesting what I was wondering about - put it under the dash pad/above the HVAC system. I haven't looked, and can't for a few weeks, but it seems like that would mean the wires would pass through the cowl and not just the firewall. Or, am I thinking incorrectly? Oval hole/adapter plate: Again, I think we may be thinking alike. If there is enough room to put the Ranger plate where the oval hole is then is there enough room to put the ECU on the other side? Ray has suggested going above the tranny. "connections from the EFI system to the chassis harnesses": I'm lost here. I get lost in the terminology, and don't understand what the 42-pin connector goes to, etc. So, can you please explain? Ranger ECU: I wasn't thinking of using a Ranger computer as I have two EEC-V ECU's from Ray - a 302/E4OD and a 302/4R100. And, I have the EEC-V from you, but I don't remember what it was from. So, I'll use the E4 for Dad's and the 4R for Big Blue - assuming I can turn the tranny code off like you said.

Yeah, then there's another $25 shipping, and then the conversion to CDN dollars...it ends up being more like $165 bucks, and then I might have to pay tax on top of that (depending on how the seller declares the parts for customs). It could end up being a $200 bill. This is by no means urgent, so I'll dig around online a little bit more and see what turns up. I'd like to find an old Granada or something similar that is rusting away in a back yard that I could pick the parts off of for much less $$...lol. Wishful thinking I suppose. Thanks for all the replies guys. There's a chance I have the cast aluminum piece hiding somewhere. I'll look when I can, but it won't be for a few weeks. However, if I have it it is yours. But I don't think I have the other pieces, so you will probably want to source the whole thing locally.

I think by '84 they were all gray. But there is debate about exactly when they changed from blue to gray. Most of what I've read says '82.

Yes, some place in that area should work. Thanks!

I put one in place on Rusty some time ago but didn’t use it. The only thing I found was that the solenoid would be very close to the brace.

Might this help? Electrical/Battery Trays But, I like the 1987 and later style tray better as it has a brace that bolts to the fender to take the load off things. And, it captures the battery at the bottom instead of using the top retainers.

Ray - Thanks for the pics. They certainly help with the understanding. Is there any chance there is enough room between the firewall and the dash at the oval hole to install the Ranger tray? In other words, could a Ranger tray, which would be for an EEC-V, be bolted to the firewall at the oval hole location? That way I might me able to use the whole Ranger ECU harness, tray, etc. And the connector would be pretty much high and dry. However, I’m not asking you to go back out and bask in those relatively-warm temps. 😎

And we need the cold in order to kill off the bugs that have been multiplying exponentially over the last several years. But that doesn't mean I like cold.

Thank you for confirming this. I found a few of these cast aluminum "bisexual" head mounts on Ebay, and I assumed the two different threaded holes were for the 302-351 height difference, but I did not find any confirmation of such until you replied. There is this one kit on Ebay listed specifically for a 1973 Mustang w/302: https://www.ebay.com/itm/70-73-FORD-MUSTANG-TORINO-ALTERNATOR-BRACKETS-D0OE-10156-A-D3AE-10145-CA-302/122845350805?epid=1123047420&hash=item1c9a274b95:g:a0wAAOSwsBtaJi9C&vxp=mtr Is it fairly safe to assume that these parts would fit my 1984 302, and my alternator as well? I didn't want to pay $100 + shipping for these parts, but I'm probably not going to have a choice if I want them. Some of them are available individually on Ebay, but the combined costs on buying them all separately wouldn't make much sense. I guess I'd rather find a dirty/rusty set for cheaper that I can sand blast and paint myself;). I believe the parts will fit yours. But that's easy to say since it isn't my $100. However, the holes in the heads didn't change over the years, nor did the ones in the block. And since the water pump bolts to the block it uses the holes in the block. So, everything is really the same and that mount kit should work well on your engine.

Happy New Year to all of you! I hope this year brings lots of joy, and especially in good health and progress on projects.

Then enjoy the day! And I hope it warms up - for your sake and for everyone's sake.

That sounds miserable. It is 4 degrees here right now and I don't think I could be talked into working outside.

What kind of options? This sounds like a good thing.

Good documentation, and amazing work. What a transformation.

Oh...now that's awesome, thanks Gary! Hope it answers your questions.

Good point on the FPR - if it is already on before the computer tells it to then it may get its knickers in a twist. So, it needs to control the FPR. Got it. But, the EGR tube shouldn't be a problem as I don't plan to run EGR. Didn't you say that can be disabled? And, while we are talking about disabling, can the transmission code be disabled? In other words, can I use just any ECU with a manual transmission? (This is for Big Blue, not Dad's truck, but is part of my learning.)

Pete - If this is an '84 it should already have a hydraulic linkage. The changeover started in '83 with the 460's and diesels, and then in '84 everything got hydraulic.

See if this answers the questions: Electrical/Alternators.

Bill - I don't know what I was thinking, but I should have remembered that the 1985.5/86 ECU won't work as it is EEC-IV. Duh! And thinks for the run-down on where the normally sit. Is the pic of Darth? And where are we looking? On the fuel pump relay, is there any reason to have the ECU pull it in? Why not just let the 1985 factory system pull it in and then wire the ECU's monitoring pin to it tell it that the relay "picked"? And, I think I now understand on the van harness. Thanks.

Any progress is good, and you are making progress. As for what I did, very little. Pulled the sector box off of Huck and boxed it and the bolts/washers up for Brandon. And that's about it. Happy New Year!!!

Yes sir, I do. I picked up an M5OD 5spd that was removed from a 1991 F250. It was also behind a 302, and it was a 2wd truck, so it should fit OK. I later located the correct cross-member for the M5OD, so it even looks like I can use the existing mounting points on my 1984 frame. Being a '91 trans, I can utilize my cable driven speedo, and I haven't fully confirmed it yet, but it looks like it may already be geared correctly for my truck. (According to the data tag on the trans, the speedo drive gear is for 2.73 to 3.08 rear diff, and my '84 has a 3.08 rear end). Well done!

Bill - Good thoughts. But, let me ask a few questions: 1. Where beside the steering column did the EEC go? Would it be best to find an 85.5/86 5.0L and get the ECU, assuming it is still there, the connector, the mounting tray, and as much harness as is possible? I need the connector and harness anyway. 2. You would change out the fuel pump relay? I was planning to use the stock one and leave the whole original system in place but have the ECU monitor it. After all, I did a bunch of wiring to get it in service, so why not use it. No? 3. Tell me more about the 42 pin engine harness connector and bracket from a 94-96 E-series? Thanks!