Gary Lewis

Yikes! This is complicated. I agree that the changeover was in 1990 for the high-pressure in-tank pump as Huck had them. And, the pump has some form of valve in it to allow the fuel to return as the fuel lines from each tank, both supply and return, were just connected via a wye. Very simple, and as I think about it that arrangement is becoming more and more attractive. I have a post about it here, and you can see the size of that pump/valve combo. In fact, as described, it looks like it would be possible to replace the later sending unit with the Bullnose unit. But the downside is that later, after I'm gone, it'll be almost impossible to repair that system. Who would you turn to in order to get a new sending unit grafted onto a replacement pump? Ray - What valve are you suggesting? Bill - What are you saying about the 1985.5-6 system? Are you saying that they replaced the motorized valve with something else? I'm really struggling with how to do this. I don't mine, too much, getting into some wiring changes as they'll be one time and I'll leave a good schematic. But I want people to be able to get parts for it, and we all know that pumps and sending units are almost a given to go out. So, what's the best approach for maintainability? I'm still thinking that the 85.5-6 5.0L in-tank pumps and sending units would be best as you can and hopefully will be able to buy them off the shelf. But, what is the best approach for switching the input to the HP pump and getting the return back to the right tank?

Bill - That's roughly where these mufflers are/were. And I'm pretty sure I won't like the glasspacks. We are planning on taking Big Blue on some cross-country trips and I don't want the drone they frequently give. However, I do like a bit of growl, so have grown fond of the Magnaflow sound. We shall see. Dave - Will your paint fully cure at those temps? It looks good, but if it doesn't cure can you top-coat it?

Congrat's!! Did you get the power valve connected to manifold vacuum? On the exhaust, if you still have the tubes sticking up where the hoses went on you can bend the tube over and crimp them. Works well.

It is cut at the back of the cab. So the mufflers will be under the bed.

Bill - Your 1996 EVTM only shows two batteries for the diesels, and then they relo the coolant/washer bottle to the passenger's side, like you said. So, I'll have to cross that bridge when I get there. But, on another subject, I've been mapping out how I'm going to integrate the power distribution box into Big Blue, and it looks like there is a good chance I can eliminate Big Blue's fuse links and use the fuses in the box. But, that'll come later as today I studied the fuel pump relay situation. I've included some scans of the 1985 & 1996 EVTM's showing the relevant pages, but here are my observations and thoughts. However, I'd like your thoughts as I may be making it to hard or missing something. My plan is to use 1985.5+ 5.0L EFI high-pressure pump and the associated tank selector valve/switch, as shown on Page 104 below. It appears that both the 5.0 and 7.5 use a similar tank selector switch, but I'll have to do some re-wiring. I wonder if I should get the tank harness from an 85.5+ 5.0L truck to make this easier? The 1996 power distribution box houses the fuel pump relay, so I'll get rid of the stand-alone FPR on Big Blue and use the one from the '96 since the PCM is wired to that one to turn it on and monitor its output. The inertia switch is in the power circuit to the FPR's output in the 85's, but is after the FPR on the 96 version, meaning it is between the FPR and the selector switch. So I'll have to rewire that. The '96 system doesn't use the oil pressure switch, so I can do away with that circuit. I need to draw this out! Looking at 5 pages across two EVTM's has me confused, and I need to see it on one sheet of paper. Here's the 1985 5.0L wiring: And here's the 1985 7.5L wiring, but not including the tank selector switch: Here's the 1985 7.5L tank selector switch wiring: Here's the 1996 FPR wiring - as far as the inertia switch: Last, here's the 1996 wiring for the inertia switch, tank selector switch, and fuel pumps:

I think I'll just have someone put flanges on so I can bolt it up and see how loud the glasspacks are. Then I can change the muffler easily if I don't like it.

This one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-Ford-Bronco-Full-Size-4x4/202207562839?hash=item2f14828c57:g:HcQAAOSwALtabiDv&vxp=mtr Nice looking Bronco. If I were still wanting a Bronco I'd be interested. Will watch to see what it goes for.

Got it on the PCV hose, and that's as I expected since I've held the '96 air intake up to Huck's engine that's on the stand and can see where the hose goes. But thanks. As for the exhaust, I think you are saying that someone cut the flanges, plural, off Huck's exhaust. But the front and rear parts mate up perfectly, so they were originally joined w/o a flange, and were separated with a hacksaw. There hasn't been a flange there. I can't prove that this is the original exhaust, and for it to have lasted this long is strange. But it sure looks that way. And if it isn't then the whole thing was replaced with what looks like factory parts - at least up front. So, what am I missing?

Bill - While I agree that from what I've read it should have had a cat, and the Walker site shows that as well, I do not see any signs of cutting anywhere. I've run my hands up and down the pipes and there are no welds. It has a GVWR of 8600 lb, so is over the 8500 lb cutoff for whatever that means, and it was manufactured in December of 1989 and delivered in the Kansas City DSO, if that matters. Here's the front section: And here's the rear section: And here's what Walker shows:

You mean this thing? Yipes! $200!!!

If that is factory, and I agree that is what it looks like, then I will have a pair of flanges welded on where the cut is and put it back. Then, if I don't like the sound or if the tailpipes or mufflers rust out I can have it replaced from the flange. However, didn't the F250's in '90 come with a cat? As for the 450, I think you offered it but I didn't need it at the time. And now that I have this from Huck, I think this is the way I'd want to go anyway.

Jim - I'm just trying to make it easy. And, I like dual exhaust. But with the to-be large rear tank I don't see having them exit on opposite sides. So, using the Magnaflow 2-in/2-out looks to be an easy way to do that.

Bill - Got it. Thanks. The front flange was where the converter goes on and the rear flange is from a dead converter. My 1990 exhaust pipes don't have a flange for a converter, nor even a converter. And I can't see where a converter was taken off. That would suggest that they are replacements. However, the driver's side has a heat shield on it that looks factory. And the mufflers look like they've been there forever. So, I'm lost. Could this be factory?

Jim - What truck does your niece have? And, what about the converter flange? I ask because Huck's exhaust, which will go on Big Blue, was cut neatly right behind the wye where the O2 sensor goes on a batch-fire setup. My intent is to put flanges there so I can bolt it together, and probably then put a Magnaflow 2-in/2-out in place of the glasspacks. Bill showed the flanges he used for that purpose, but they looked huge. Are there smaller flanges?

Oh, two versions. How 'bout: V1 - Authentic: Basically it would be what I have with the recess. And, by the way, I already have the recess created. It would have the studs where the factory put them, and would be as close to NOS as we can make. In spite of the the fact that NOS doesn't line up with the switch hole. V2 - Improved: The studs would be moved, and other options would include that the corners are rounded, the thickness pared, and space added between G and L. (Hmmm, I think a "K" goes there. GKL, Gary Kenneth Lewis. ) We just need to decide the details.

Ron - I don't think we are going to achieve an exact match. Jonathan - I agree. Let me get some of that paint and see what it looks like. Unless you want to paint it if I send it to you? As for the "when in use there won't be a nos example sitting next to it to compare fonts" statement, you do realize what is exposed if you are checking the bezel out don't you? Seriously though, I think we are "there" if the paint goes on well. If so, I propose that I reduce the size to match the headlight/washer switch bead, move the studs, and print another one. But, if we find other things to resolve I'd like to get them fixed before the next print.

Jonathan - Thanks. It is much better and the sanding I've done has it in pretty good shape. And if the black paint fills a bit, then it'll be great. As for the letters, I can add a space between FOG and LAMPS, although to be consistent then I'd need to squeeze the whole string into the same space it is in now. And that would reduce the space between the other letters even more. Do you think that needs to be done or just add the space and let the whole string get longer? Or, leave it alone? As for the the threads, using the die backwards did the trick. But you want to start it the correct way first to ensure the threads are formed enough that you can get the die to start correctly backwards. Then turn it around and work it gently as it peels off material from the bottom of the threads, and stop frequently to get rid of that material.

Ron - I don't think "they" did anything. It was printed w/o any changes to it. And, it looks pretty close. Here is your NOS one, cropped from an earlier pic, followed by my #2 after some cleaning on it - and it cleaned up well. I'd like to paint it with the black Jonathan suggested to see how it turns out.

Well, I got the 2nd bezel in from Shapeways. And, the lettering is much better, as is the surface texture. But, there's a pattern in it that is visible, albeit much better than the 1st pass. Perhaps it will not be noticed when painted? Anyway, here's a side-by-side with the 1st one, and it was taken in harsh sunlight from the side to show all the warts. And, by the way, they are exactly the same size - it is just a parallax issue. Also, there are nibs on the back and on a couple of sides, like this one. But they can be sanded or filed off pretty easily. And, the threads are slightly too large on the studs. A 1/4-28 nut gets tight and I'm afraid the stud will twist off. So I gently ran a die down it - with the die reversed, meaning with the Start From This Side showing on the backside. That way the sharp edge of the die cuts the plastic instead of just riding up on top of it and eventually binding. Thoughts?

I'm not sure I'm ready to say that the bead-to-bead difference should be .230". I say that because I just measured four different bezels to get the height of the wiper/headlight switch bead so we can adjust the height of the fog lamp bezel to match. And, I got 2.310 to 2.350". Yep, a .040" difference on what I thought would be less than .010". So, if there's that much difference between bead heights might there be that much or more in its length? And, by the way, these were different, with one being Rosewood, one burlwood, and two being different meshes. Further, the burlwood is enough different that getting my calipers down in it to measure was much harder than on all the others. So, there are some differences in the instrument bezels in spite of them all fitting in the same spot. We will need to figure this out before we give definitive measurements on where to cut the slot and drill the holes. And, by the way, given the shape of the fog lamp bezel with the studs sticking out of the back, I'm also not sure if a bead/bead dimension is much help. They'll need to measure and cut/drill the openings first, and then they can use the bead/bead measurement to align it properly. Perhaps lay the right sized drill bit in between and then tighten the nuts down?

Not much to tell, but there have been several posts in the Fog Lamp Bezel thread, and there are more to come as I got the 2nd Shapeways printout in today. And, I got my new 1996 EVTM in today. See the newest review on that book on Amazon, below. However, Bishko did have one used copy of the real EVTM, or so they say, and it is supposed to be on its way to me. And, Bill, your source didn't have any.

I can't imagine Big Blue needing anything more than the stock 24# injectors. Other than the Eddy cam, which is very mild, and a slight compression boost, it'll be stock. But I'll have to think about Dad's when the time comes. Thanks for the tip. However, will I be able to use your setup, or tune, with smaller injectors? Is there a parameter where you tell it what size injectors it has?

Thanks Bill, but I have the 8 from Huck and 8 from the F450 that Jim parted out. So, assuming all of those are good then I have enough. However, I wonder if 24# injectors will be enough for Dad's engine?

Jonathan - Thanks for the offer, but I'm pretty sure that I have the parts needed to figure out the offset: .095". Here's how I did it, as shown on the drawing. But, I want to make sure I did it correctly, so hope some of you will work through this with me to ensure it is right. First, I put my instrument bezel, the one with the factory slot and holes, on the '82 dash. It fits in one and only one position, and while you can muscle it to another position it comes right back where it wants to be when you let loose. Then, with a small machinist's square across the light/washer switch beads to ensure it would be vertical, I played with drill bits until I found one that was a snug fit. It measures .375" on the shank. And, with a little math I determined that the offset was .095". But, I wasn't comfortable with that, so I drew up the Should Be case by centering the instrument bezel's .475" wide slot above the .465" hole in the dash for the switch. (Note: It is D-shaped and is only .465" in the vertical dimension.) Next I cloned that, called it Actual, drew in the drill bit, and moved the instrument bezel to the right until it touched. Viola, the offset is .095". I'd like you to confirm that, but I realize that you have an instrument bezel with the factory holes in it and have a fog lamp bezel mounted. However, I think you can do it if you insert the bit from the back and butt it up against the back of the fog lamp bezel. It should fit between the right (seen from the front) side of the switch hole and the left side of the instrument bezel's slot. You can see this if look at the Actual With Fog Lamp Bezel drawing. And, it is my 25/64" bit that actually measures .375".