Gary Lewis

Yes, that'll work.

I've been assuming that the pulleys have to be in the same plane. Right? So, if I can determine how much further back a Sag mounts vs a C2, then Jonathan can space a Sag that far on a C2 bracket and know the pulley will be in the right plane. Yes?

That would actually be stronger as the bull bar would then be held by bolts to the frame. The one on top isn't all that secure as the bumper isn't very strong and can roll. But, your hole will need to be square to take the bumper bolt. Or, use a different bolt there.

There's where we differ. But let's see what I come up with.

And, I missed the hole size diff. Yes, I remember reading about that. But, in reality what we are trying to do is figure out how Jonathan can bolt a Saginaw to his IDI when there was no Sag bracket for the IDI.

But, even if there is no height difference in the part that bolts to the head, we don't know that there aren't other differences. Like a slight difference in an angle or other dimension that makes the mounting point for the power steering pump different. Right? So, if we assume that the head is a good reference point, then why not measure from the head mounting point to the power steering pump mounting point? I know you have something in mind, but I'm missing it. Sorry!

Jim - That's one of the questions. I know the bolts stayed the same, but lots of dimensions could have changed. My plan is to run both of these parts through the parts washer to get them presentable, and then clamp them to the table on the mill just as they would bolt to the cylinder heads. Then I can measure from the table to the mounting face of the bracket and know that it is a good measurement. Sound like a reasonable plan?

Amen, brother! I recently invited Vernon to join us on this forum. Hope he takes the offer up.

Don't worry about it - I'm not. But, if you will watch for a dual-return reservoir I'd appreciate it. I'm sure I can modify this one as shown in that link, but I'm not sure I want to do that. And, I'm not in a hurry. This year is Dad's truck and thinking through what to do for Big Blue. His turn is next year.

Yes, on both of those, but no biggee. I'm thinking the reservoir can easily be bent back - if I don't find a dual return one. And the point is broken off. But surely that's not critical. What does it do? If needed it can be tack-welded back on.

In one of the above links someone mentioned Magna-Pure filters for the power steering/hydroboost system. That reminded me of something I'd seen in the parts I acquired from Vernon. I'd put them in the fuel system cabinet w/o reading what they say:

I got my 460 Saginaw power steering pump & bracket today - THANK YOU, JONATHAN! So I used the pulley remover and unbolted the pump to compare the brackets. I took a number of measurements: Shaft diameter: C2=.688" and Saginaw=.750" Shaft protrusion: C2=2.406" & Sag=2.813" Measurements from mounting lugs to end of shaft, but on the Sag it was from the two most-forward lugs Thickness of Bracket @ bolt holes: C2=.407" while the Sag's bracket is .450" on the two front lugs Plane of mounting spots on the pumps: All 3 of the C2's mounting spots are in the same plane, but one of the Saginaw's mountings spots is .357" to the rear of the other two. Pulley Depth: From the back of the pulley to the front the C2 is 1.495" and the Saginaw is 1.730. Said another way, the Saginaw pulley is .235" deeper than the C2 pulley. One thing I didn't measure and should have is the plane of the mounting points vs the front of the block. Here's the C2 bracket: Here's the Saginaw bracket: And, there are differences in the pulleys themselves. Here's a side view: Here's another view:

You are just learning. And, we are all learning - just different things. Or, at least I hope I'm learning.

Here's the answer. The bull bar bolts to the frame using adapters that look like this and are 2 1/2" x 3 1/2": And, here's how they fit: The bumper & frame bolt holes are 37 1/2" center/center, and the holes in these adapters are the same. And, they are ~4" behind the lower bumper bolt, and probably go into the hole shown below, which I think is where the sway bar mounts. Also, note that holes have to be drilled in the top of the bumper to take the tabs shown here:

Maybe so. Makes sense.

Steve - It isn't the actual weight of the balancer or flywheel, but the imbalance of them. To put it another way, the rotating assembly is out of balance, and they make up for that by using flywheel and balancer combo that have weights on a spot on them. Look at your flywheel - it should have a weight welded to it in one spot. And your balancer probably has one spot that is thicker on its rim.

What I read says that in 1981 Ford changed the 302 from using a 28 ounce balancer/flywheel combo to a 50 ounce pair. You can read that at Hot Rod as well as Ken Blythen's comment here. And lots of other places. So, I think you need to clarify this with your engine supplier as it depends on what crank they used. You need both a balancer and a flywheel that have to match - either 28.2 ounce or 50 ounce. For your truck it should be 50 ounce or you'll have to replace both the flywheel and the balancer.

Type 9! There's a man that's done his homework. I have some of those, and many of them have the same problem. Over time I've thought of tightening that pivot up, but I haven't found a way to do it. I don't see a way to take the mirror apart w/o just breaking the glass. However, I've wondered if either dusting the pivot with something that would cause things to bind up a bit. But I've not figured out what to use for that purpose. A really fine grit might work, but it is abrasive so a number of adjustments will cause the ball to degrade and/or seize. Or, if it was clean then maybe Loctite? You'd have to drip some in, probably by having the mirror off, then quickly mount the mirror and position it before the Loctite sets up. Anyway, if you figure it out please let us know.

I can't find anything that explains what that means. Sorry.

Ron - Tomorrow I'll go look to see if I have the hardware which mounts the bar. I tend to remember there being some but haven't seen it of late.

Very well done, Ron!

I have the OTC 4530: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XSI96G/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Seems to work well.

I think the 1pc rear main seal showed up on the 302 in 1983 didn't it? My 1984 302 has the 1pc rear main. Wasn't there a change in the blocks for the vehicles that had serpentine belt systems? I could be wrong on that, but wasn't there a mounting boss cast in the RH side on blocks when the serp belts started being used? I thought I read that in one of my SBF books. If re-using old harmonic balancer and flywheel, I'd want to make sure that the balance was correct (28oz or 50oz), although if the engine was ordered for anything newer than 1982-ish?, it should* be correct... Is this new engine coming with a water pump? I guess you'd want to make sure the rotation was correct for V-belts or Serpentine. If all of these ideas are bad craziness...then I apologize in advance. I've been driving myself crazy reading SBF stuff for months now...lol. Close on the 1-piece seal date. According to my favorite website the change to the new seal happened on 12/1/82. (Engines/Windsor Series) Beyond that, I don't know.

Can you show us a pic of the marking and any surrounding marks?

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! And, I'm glad that you are keeping your grandfather's trucks going. I am especially sensitive to that because I am a grandfather and have two trucks on which I have invested a large amount of time, so want to make sure they are well-treated by my offspring. On the blend door issue, have you gotten it sorted? Several of us have run into that problem and have solved it in differing ways. Again, welcome!