Gary Lewis

Yes YFA nothing fancy on this motor. I like KISS! I don't think it has any kind of plating. I know some of the older v4 carbs have a gold type plating when new. Besides this carb was butchered! I found 2 sheet metal screws holding the top on. Also found pipe sealer on a few of the right screws for the top cover. Found 1 other type screw for 1 of 3 on the choke housing. There is also a petcock, closed, in place of the hot air tube fitting for the choke. Don't know what I will do with it yet as I have EFI exh manifolds. Inside I found the needle for the float not installed right. It has the needle then a spring and metal pin. I found needle, pin and spring and some junk in it. A washer under the bowl vent seal that should not have been there, think to stop fuel from coming out because of the float needle. Also did not find any step washer on top of the accel pump assy. The kit said to replace it with a flat one from the kit but I could not find it .......... it is white and the box is white, till I had everything back together. I have to hit the hardware store of the right screws for the top & choke and will install the carb. Also have the fuel pump I want to change along with oil & temp senders before I try and run the motor again. Still plugging away at it. Dave ---- Sounds like the same guy rebuilt your carb and Huck's engine. Anyway, pretty soon you'll have it running!

Looking good, Jonathan! That headliner will make a difference in the noise, which is especially helpful for long trips. Onions have layers, dances have steps. Chose your analogy, but I can't dance so.....

Welcome! Glad you found us. And, I like the truck.

They look good!

Ok, thanks. I've Googled and Googled and haven't come up with any discussions of which is best. The 3-screw one, from the '90 F250, is in better condition and might not have to be media blasted and powder coated. The 2-screw one has surface rust and has to be refurbished to be used. But, with the nylon tube between the sides, that appears to be a problem as I don't know how to replace those lines. So, if the 3-screw one is acceptable, that's my preference.

Ok. Got it. Thanks. Any comments on the fuel rail question? Or, maybe I should say the fuel pressure regulator question?

Stairs look great! Well done. Chizler (also Chizzler) 1. n. "Any Chrysler Corporation-produced engine, but most often referring to the EARLY HEMI motors manufactured for the 1951 through 1958 model years." But in the 60's where I grew up it was just slang for a Chrysler. As for Bill's parts, I hope to get them sent to you on Monday. THANKS!

I don't think yours is SEFI, which stands for Sequential Electronic Fuel Injection. If you look at Page 61 in the 1986 EVTM you'll see that injectors 1, 4, 5, & 8 fire together, and 2, 3, 6, & 7 fire together. That is "bank fire" not sequential, which didn't come until later. On the code 34, I don't have a theory of operation on the EEC's. I haven't really seen one that I could put up. And I don't know about the vacuum at idle. Sorry.

Peeling the onion! One layer down - how many to go? The codes you are getting are as follows, from this page, with O = Key on Engine Off (KOEO), R = Key on Engine Running (KOER), and C = Continous Memory: 41 R Injectors out of balance on 5.0L SEFI; EGO sensor voltage low (except 5.0L SEFI) 34 O,R,C Canister or EGR valve control circuit or EVP voltage high So, you will have to check out the O2 (EGO) sensor. And coming from underneath is the way to do that.

Bill - My valve covers are E7's and have the 160" groove. Is there a way to tell an F5 from the outside? I'd like to find a pair of them.

How about F3 heads with E7 gaskets? As for the block, I'm not going to use it but I wonder if the bolts might need to be replaced? I've cleaned the threads and then seem ok, but those bolts were tightened way beyond the torque spec. Way beyond.

I had some pretty significant problems getting the heads off of the engine. Four of the head bolts were on so tight that my Harbor Freight Earthquake XT impact, which is supposed to be good for 1000 ft-lbs, would not remove them. I pulled out my big breakover and finally got them loose, but one of them took absolutely everything I could do to break it loose. And even when I got them broken loose they fought the air impact all the way out. In fact, when the threads cleared I still couldn't pull them out. The only way I got them out was by pulling up on an open end wrench under the flanged head as I spun them with the impact. When I got them out they looked like this. What in the world??????

Pulled the intake (lower plenum), heads, and pan off of Huck's 460 today and cleaned them up. Here's the pan starting to be cleaned: And here's the pan and accessories after cleaning. I'm not 100% sure I'm going to blast and powder coat the pan, but I probably will. As for the dipstick, it is the later o-ringed style, and I'm pleased with that: I also discovered that the intake gaskets were either the wrong ones or put on incorrectly as they are up to 1/4" off, blocking part of the intake port. This engine was very poorly put together.

I guess you fixed it as it looks fine to me. Anyway, my Terrapin brace fit pretty well, but that one obviously didn't. However, your approach appears to have fixed it well.

You may get codes from the computer as it expects the exhaust gas to lean out the mix, and w/o it the mix at part throttle will be quite rich. I'm not sure the computer can adjust far enough to bring the mix back into the proper range. But it is easy to try and put back if needed.

That's what I meant about "at some point". You don't know what you have yet, but you will. Anyway, glad the site/forum helps. That's the intent, and it is a labor of love.

There are well over 400 pages, and many of those have several tabs. That could take a while. So ask questions as it is faster. But give us all the info you can when you ask. And, more in your sig wll probably help at some point.

It is an '80 or '81 as they had slide door locks. See this: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/door-locks.html

If the speed control components are already on the '80, then the harness is already there and the column should plug right in. 1980 trucks are a special breed since the early ones are wired a bit differently than the later ones and the rest of the Bullnose era. But if yours has speed control it probably is of the later variety and you should be good.

Those are speed control components. Are they on the '80? I'm confused with the situation, so maybe you can try one more time to help me understand?

Maybe, depending on what you are asking. If I remember correctly, speed control was introduced in 1981, so your '80 probably doesn't have it. But I believe the rest of the wiring is the same.

I'm into the fuel rails and have realized that I have two different rails & pressure regulators. In fact, the regulators are apparently the only difference in them. Here are the regulators I have: 1990 F250: F4CE-9C968-AA 3 screws and only one o-ring to seal the output 1995 F450: F4SE-9C968-AA 2 screws but two o-rings to seal the output Here's what they look like on the bottom side. I can refurb either rail, but need to understand the differences in regulators and decide which way to go. Note that both have '94 prefixes on the ID #.

Gotta be the YFA since it is the 300 six.

Well ain't that slick. You are SUCH a keener Gary! So then...what is the "ECA" used on some trucks? Is this something in the EEC-IV system? ECA means Electronic Control Assembly. The computer for the EEC (Electronic Engine Control) is called an ECA, while the whole system is called EEC-III, or EEC-IV, or ..... You can see that here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/electronic-engine-control.html

Don't leave it in the cleaner too long. I don't know about those carbs, but many carbs have a plating that can get stripped if left in too long.