Gary Lewis

Yes, they can go lots of places - especially the Broncos. My recent “Father Knows Best” episode was when I suggested to my daughter that she take my cigarette lighter cell phone charger with her on her trip. No, she didn’t need it, but thanks. Later that day she called to fess up that she had to buy one. At least in your case the instruments got upgraded. 👍 As for the ticks, that reminds me of working on my first Bullnose with my father. It was in knee-deep grass and I when I called him the next morning we compared notes - both of us were infested with chiggars. I stopped counting at 100 bites. 😫

Are you going back with the 1980 - 86 visors? I wouldn't. Instead, I'd go back with the later ones with clips on the inside ends. Fixes the droop the Bullnose visors have.

Glad you caught it early. You are in my prayers for a speedy and complete recovery. As for the diff, Dad's was worn out as well. Got it stuck in 2wd on soft ground. Had the pumpkin rebuild and he used Kevlar clutches. Certainly doesn't slip now. In fact, it'll squeal a bit on tight corners under power.

I think I agree with your wife. The smaller tires just look too small. Besides, it'll make her happy.

NotEnoughTrucks - Ray! "Personal maintenance"? A stint???? That's serious stuff! Hope you are doing well and recovering quickly. BeagleRock - I hope that spacer solves the problem. You sure seem to be having them. Problems that is. GSMBlue - You are closing in on good feeling brakes. Those on Big Blue aren't, and I have all the parts to fix them, inc hydroboost, braided lines, etc. But, that's for when I tear him down this fall. But, this is WHYDTYTT. And I'll answer that - drove it to the levy but the levy was dry. No, sorry, that was a Chevy and this is a Ford. I drove it to the marina and the marina was wet. Twice. We'd gone out on the boat yesterday and had to be towed back as the engine would crank but wouldn't start. Turns out that the main battery was bad and when the solenoid pulled in while charging to parallel the two batteries the bad one took all the juice and the good battery wasn't coming up to snuff. And, apparently Mercruiser's ECM takes good voltage to work, so while it would crank the voltage was too low to let it fire the injectors. Once I figured that out I got the engine started and then replaced the battery, and all is almost well. Unfortunately the cracked water distribution housing, that the marina ordered to replace the cracked one shown below, is back ordered. And we want to use the boat in the interim, so I have a "cunning plan". (Sorry, Dogsbody/Baldrick.) I'm going to run some RTV on the threads as well as around where the 0-ring seats and put the plug in. Let it set overnight, and it should slow the leak down significantly if not stop it.

Something like this, Gary? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Ford-F-100-xl/123165164574?hash=item1cad37441e:g:K04AAOSwBXhbBgmV&vxp=mtr Jein. He put a Bullnose cab and bed on a 2000 F150 frame, a 2012 F150 engine, a 2004 Crown Vic tranny, aftermarket tranny controller, etc. But I'm wondering if you couldn't just put the Bullnose sheetmetal on a 2000ish truck and retain the computer(s) and complete running gear. Old school look on a new school running gear.

Awww, shucks!

Gary, that was a huge help. Thanks again. I checked with the Ford dealer, and all of the part numbers are long LONG obsolete. Bad enough, the guy at the parts counter didn't even want to put any effort into looking them up...lol. I should know better by now shouldn't I?...lol. Seems all I can get at the Ford dealer for my truck is an oil filter;). I see there are all kinds of them on Ebay as well, but the problem with them is shipping outside the US is absolutely ridiculous. It would almost be cheaper to buy my own plastic injection molding machine;). Anyway... I found these. Expensive yes, but very nice and neat and tidy. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mfy-5075611/overview/ Nice picture installed about half way down the page in this link: http://www.stangfix.com/threads/lets-talk-distributors-and-spark-plug-wires.22449/ I like those wire holders. But the original ones are still available. Here's what I found on Parts Voice:

Gary, that info is very helpful, thank you! I did go looking for it before I asked FYI...just so you know;). Glad it helps. And lots of them available on the internet. But they weren’t all that easy to find in the catalog. I finally found an illustration that had the generic part number and from there was able to find them in the text section.

Added a new page to the website today: Electrical/Ignition. And that includes a tab for Ignition Wiring that has the part numbers for the things known as Separator (Ignition Wire). In addition, I'll be including the info from the pages on Ignition Modules and Ignition Switches and then redirecting links to those pages to that page.

Anna/Cinamon - The door lock slider is in the mail. Tracking code sent via email.

Cliff - You now have spark to the plugs? But does the engine run?

New vehicles are so laden with electronics, much of which is seriously integrated into them, that porting their "stuff" to an old vehicle is becoming quite difficult. However, there are ways to port the shell of some vehicles to the newer running gear that might get much of what you want. For instance, there are kits to allow the body of a 1950's Chevy pickup to be bolted to the running gear of a late model S10. That gives you a modern vehicle with the old look. So, perhaps the same could be done with a Bullnose truck on a later model frame?

Valve covers can come from any year Windsor engine, meaning the 302 & 351W. Side mirrors will be from 1980 up to 1989 for sure, but probably well into the 90's although I don't know that as my catalog ends at 1989. Other parts: Gauges: 1980 - 86, although a 1980 could have different wiring Instrument & radio bezels: 1980 - 86, except that 1980 - 84 radio bezels took a non-standard radio and 1985 & 6 went to a DIN radio size Body components: 1980 - 86 for fenders, doors, interior trim, and tailgates. 1980 - 89 and probably later for seats. Choice things to find: 1985/6 coolant recovery reservoir with the bottom-feed hose; 1987 and later sun visors with the clip that secures the end to keep it from drooping; 1987 and later battery tray and support arm as it secures the battery from the bottom with a clamp rather than the bracket at the top that gets corroded; 3G alternator, as explained here

I wouldn't, and haven't, had an original radiator rehab'd. Instead I've gone with a new aluminum one - preferably all aluminum, meaning no plastic tank. The reason is that aluminum radiators are said to cool almost twice as well as the copper/brass ones. But the downside is that they will corrode unless you keep the coolant up to snuff. However, if you are running an aluminum heater core, as all of the new ones are, and/or an aluminum intake on a Windsor engine, you'll already need to keep the coolant changed. And you should anyway, so.... As for a filter, in theory you want the smallest micron size you can get. But don't obsess with that. Just make sure that you are getting a true filter and not one of those that uses a coarse screen to keep out rocks - which is what the OEM filters that screw into the carburetors usually are. And the heater hose should be 5/8", but I'm not sure that 6' is enough. So, since it doesn't stretch very well and doesn't cost much you might go with 8'. Having said that, you can splice it, and the way I'd do that is to either put a shut-off valve or a clean-out port in one of the hoses.

Just trying to help, one friend at a time.

The "serial numbers" are actually ID or engineering numbers according to Ford. (For some bizarre reason Ford didn't stamp/emboss the true part number on a part.) Sometimes the ID/engineering number is shown in the catalog but, as in this case, usually not.

You, sir, have succeeded! And it will only get better with the improvements you have planned. Well done!

Anna - You started another thread with this post, but I moved it into your original thread. And to email Pete just click on PetesPonies in his avatar, then click on Send Email To PetesPonies. You don't need to know his email address.

Right way to look at it - it is a hobby. Enjoy the journey, not just the destination.

Did it come with the new, blue vacuum line? And, did it make a difference in the brake "feel"?

Wow! Good buy!

As I say, these trucks are like onions. You keep peeling and crying, but soon you'll have onion rings. Or a bloomin' onion.

Looks great! But, it is a shame about the clutch splines. You'll have it on the street in no time.

Anna - The illustrations only show the base part number, to which you need to add a prefix and a suffix. Let's assume that you want the one without the storage compartment. The right hand part number is E0TZ 9829004-A and the left hand one is E0TZ 9829005-A. The prefix, E0TZ breaks down as: E: the decade of 1980 0: take the decade of 1980 and add 0, meaning the part was engineered in the year of 1980 T: Truck Z: I believe that is "replacement part", but I'm not sure. Anyway, you can use those part numbers to search to see if you can find one. I've done a bit of searching but have not found one, but perhaps you'll have better luck.