Gary Lewis

Not between a 351M and a 400. The only difference is in the crankshaft's throw (3.5" vs 4.0") and the pistons. All else is the same. But, he said 6.6L, and that's a 400. However, he doesn't know that there's a difference between a 351M and a 400 from what he wrote, so....

The thermal limiter is a one-shot thing, not an auto-reset unit. So, when it goes the blower is done. But, it shows that High bypasses the limiter. I'd be surprised if a bad motor would blow a fuse on a lower speed.

Actually, although I can't read French I think it has a 400 in it. I think the gentleman is one of the confused people that think that a 351M and a 400 are one and the same. But the fact that he says 6.6L shows it really is a 400. And, it looks good. But, I agree with you, the rat rod look isn't my favorite.

If it truly is Fuse 9, as shown here, then I'd try a new fuse before going any farther. I've had them fail and a replacement last for years. But it could also be other things. For instance, the thermal limiter in the resistor pack is a known problem. They just get old and die, which kills the blower. Or, it could be that a resistor failed in the pack, which kills that speed but not other speeds. And, if the new fuse also fails then there's the question of how quickly. If immediately then you obviously have a short. But a bad motor, or one that has worn bearings such that it is dragging can pull so much current that it'll blow the fuse. In that case try different speeds to see what happens. Does that help?

thx, Gary... for all your time and effort with everyone! You are welcome. We have a really good community here and it is a pleasure to work with y'all.

The LED might actually glow when the engine is running as there will be voltage on that wire. In fact, if I remember correctly I saw in excess of 35v when I put my scope on it, so it might blow the LED. As for the wire size, #20 would probably work. The wire to the tach, the dark green/yellow is probably a #16, so that's what I'd use but it isn't critical. And, you are tapping into that wire. But, if it was me I'd prove the theory by taking a jumper wire and shorting the dark green/yellow wire to ground and trying to start the truck. You can easily get to that wire on the coil - the terminal marked "Tach". You can place the switch anywhere that is convenient. However, there will be some electrical "noise" in that wire so I wouldn't bundle it tightly to the input of the subwoofer as you might be able to hear the noise in the sub. As for the ground, and ground will do and the seat bolt should work fine. Or the one for the sub will be fine.

Should be a solid driver, and get decent MPG even.

Bravo 3. That 6.2L has such a wonderful exhaust note. 😜

Part numbers... confusing doesn't begin to describe... I only used the "basic" number as a reference point to the pics I used... but I admit, I've not been able to find the section in the part cat. where these purge system parts reside... what section of the catalog did you find your pic in? I do indeed have the D8TE 9B982 B2A solenoid valves... of the 2 on my truck, one has a dead solenoid... the other has a cracked hose nipple... but I DID find a NOS awhile back on ebay... so I scooped that up... so I have one functioning valve at this point (hence my question re. T'ing the 2 bowls together ) The real stumbling block is locating the Thermostatic Valve(s) D8TE 9E589 B1A (neither of the ones I have seem to function correctly ... though I may spend a bit more time figuring out why) ... these appear to be NLA. So... it seems a good solution would be to abort the separate component route and find a pair of the 9G332 (I know, not the complete part no. ) valves that Lariat 85 pointed out. What's the set up in Big Blue? You'll find that info in the Text part of the catalog, Section 96, Page 71. But I cheat - my catalog has been run through an optical character recognition program so I can search for things - like 9B982. A few seconds and it finds it. As for the D8TE 9E589 B1A, even looking it up under Motorcraft CX233 shows everyone is sold out. What does Big Blue have? An Edelbrock carb that isn't connected to any charcoal canister, vent valves, or even EGR.

Welcome! Glad you found us. You'll have to start a thread/topic in the main section or project section about your trucks. But the Flareside looks cool. Can't tell for sure from the pic, but it looks like it may be the 300 six, and those are good truck engines. Anyway, WELCOME!!

I would snap it up, but I'm moving to EEC-V, and that uses a different connector.

Egads!!!!! $1500!?!?!? But, well spotted on the other one, Rick.

The 1981 F-Series brochure shows on Page 9 that the Custom got a driver's door switch and on Page 8 the Ranger adds passenger's door switch. And Page 18, which shows the options, confirms that as both the Convenience Group and the Light Group add a switch to the passenger's door for a Custom. So, Rembrant, you should have a LG/Y wire in both of your door jambs that, if grounded, will bring the dome light on. (Shown on Page 52 in the 1981 EVTM.) If you can fish them out and install switches your dome light should come on with either door opening. Pete - That was a good buy on the window regulator.

Looking forward to the startup. Glad you are here.

I like your thinking of placing all the info we know re this topic in one thread. As for the using one of them in a T arrangement, I think the issue is the volume of vapor and, hence, the need for two charcoal canisters. Would you then feed the output of the one valve into both canisters? Other than the volume issue, I think it would work. But, do you need to pass inspections, and would they catch that? As for finding the part, what you have in 9B982 is the core part number. To that you have to add a prefix and a suffix. Below is what the catalog shows for that part number, but it is VERY confusing. So, look yours over closely to see if you can find one of the numbers shown on the right side, like D8TE 9B982-B1A, which is the ID or engineering number. Those are frequently shown on the part - but that is not the part number. Also, the CX-239 number is the Motorcraft number, and that's likely the number you need to order one.

Speaking of boats, I absolutely LOVE my Mercruiser 6.2L. 😎

Russell - Welcome! Two weeks away! I'll bet you are STOKED! Post some pics to let us see what you are working on. And, you are not alone. There are quite a few other ..... crazy people doing the same thing as you. And, that is very comforting to know. So let us share in your to-be experience of firing your truck up. Please!

Sure! May not get any answers, but Bill tells us about his Chizzler, so why not a boat? 😉

I’m not an expert, but they look good to me. 👍

I like the cigar lighter idea. But you wouldn’t be able to use it to charge a cell phone while driving. Hmmmm! 😜

I have no recommendations for mechanics in your area, but I feel your pain. I don't know where I'd take my truck locally for work like that. I have actually seen people posting ads in the local classifieds looking for mechanics that will work on older trucks. Most generic shops won't even work on them, and if they will, they don't often have any experience with carbed engines (or the early pre-OBDII fuel injected engines for that matter). I would contact Thumper in Jacksonville, and see if they have any recommendations for South Florida. http://www.thumperheads.com/ Thumper does a good job with porting iron heads, and he might have some suggestions for a mechanic. We have a guy on here, Rick/Lariat 85, that is running his heads and is pleased with them. However, when I was doing Dad's engine Tim Meyer talked me into aluminum heads. The cost wasn't much more than reworked cast iron heads, and the benefits are better. Tim is a Ford engine guru and does Windsors as well as his mainstay of 335 Series engines, meaning Clevelands and M-Blocks. And he is coming out with a line of aluminum heads that are less expensive than the big-name heads. I don't know that he will have them for Windsors, but I'd contact him for sure to find out. And, it is remotely possible he would have a recommendation for a mechanic in FL, although he's in MN. Having said that, he'll be in Skiatook, OK on Sept 14th and 15th for the show, so if you could make it......

Yes. If you click on the Part Numbers tab and scroll down you'll see that 2B164 is listed as Clip (Brake Shoe Anti-Rattle).

Welcome! From Australia, huh. Gonna have Darin/Oz Econoline and his wife, Anita, at my house for the show in a month. And they are from Sydney as well, which you can see on the Member's Map. (I can add you to the map as well if you'll just give me a town.) As for knowledge, we have a fair bit on Bullnose trucks, and some of us do on houses and boats. I've not built boats, but I've done about everything imaginable on them, and Jim/ArdWrknTrk works on them as well. On your truck, how 'bout starting a thread about it and including some pics?

EEC is Electronic Engine Control. But that's on Page 20 and following. I pointed you to pages 18 & 19, Duraspark, as that's what you have with your 351W HO. As for how the ignition works, the red/light green wire supplies power to the coil, and the ignition box, shown as "Ignition Module" and "Solid State" in the diagram, alternately grounds the dark green/yellow wire and then takes the ground off as directed by the pickup module in the distributor. During the time the dg/y wire is grounded, meaning taken to ground or 0 volts, current flows in the coil and the coil is "charged". When the ground is removed the charge dissipates by causing a large high voltage surge to flow out the black wire, through the distributor, and to a spark plug. But if you ground the dark green/yellow wire then nothing the ignition module does will cause a spark, and the engine cannot run. And, by "grounding it" I mean take it to a simple toggle switch and take the other side of that switch to ground. When you close the switch the engine will not run. As for your rear tank, if you want to use it at a later date then don't wire into it for this. Instead, put a small toggle switch under the dash where it isn't easily seen but is easily reached. Orient it such that with the handle forward the truck will run, and with the handle back the truck won't run.

Yes, it does look to be in good shape. Under the hood looks "stock", and the interior looks nice. But it is not at all well advertised. What engine? What transmission? Yes, we can deduce those things from the pics, but... And what about the A/C? Does it work? What problems does the truck have? Well advertised and with no problems and no rust then maybe $4k. But the way they are handling it more like $2.5K as most people will pass at the combination of a lack of information and high price.