Gary Lewis

Jonathan has a how-to called Salvaging Rosewood that also shows how to do the silver beads. By the way, Rosewood is the highest level of trim.

Don't put a switch in the battery circuit. Instead, kill the ignition. On trucks with full gauges there's a dark green/yellow wire running from the ignition module & coil to the tach - even if you don't have a tach - as shown on Page 18 & 19 of the 1981 EVTM. All you have to do is to ground it and the ignition is dead. The engine will spin like it is going to start, but without spark it won't run. And no amount of jumping is going to make it run until that ground is removed. As for a switch, do you have dual tanks? If so, do both work? If you have dual tanks and one doesn't work then use the tank switch to ground the ignition. No extra switches.

You might want to check out this thread to see if those symptoms fit yours. As for illustrations, try Driveline/Brakes.

Excellent. Thanks for the link Gary, I hadn't seen that one in a while. What I was curious about, and I guess that threads confirmed it, is if there is a nice straight section on the frames of the 133" wheel base trucks where the 16" can be removed, and then the two halves match up perfectly square for welding. Going to go look at an '86 tomorrow...long bed of course, and was wondering how much work it would be to shorten it so that I could make use of the spare Flareside bed I have;). Doesn't seem like too big a deal. As long as the difference is all between the back of the cab and the rear axle, then maybe it won't be too bad to remove and still keep it square. Of course it all depends on how rusty this 133" truck is... Make sure you don't miss Cory's note that he should have started 1" or so one way or the other to make it match perfectly.

Cory is chopping a section out of his frame, as explained here, and Jonathan/FordF834 has done it but, if I remember correctly, on a Supercab. On the Crown Vics front ends, I did some Googling and found threads on various other forums where people have done this, and the names of those following the work include our FuzzFace2, so maybe Dave can comment?

Let us know how it works for you. And, don't miss the Black Jack recommendation for adhesive/sealant. I've tried RTV and it does not work well as it doesn't adhere to the garage door seal. But it does adhere to the paint, so when you need to take it off and use Black Jack it is a real pain. Don't ask.

I think you have three options: NOS: But by now a 30+ year-old part will surely be stiff and hard, so not likely to seal Aftermarket: However, from what I've seen those are flimsy and also unlikely to seal Garage Door Seal: This is my favorite. Here's how I've written it up. And here's a thread where JMUBullnose just did it.

That is a clean truck. But, it seems over-priced, even knowing that's Canadian dollars. As for the paint, I think that's a Type 4 tape stripe, as shown here: Specifications/Tape Stripe Codes. However, it has a spot of blue in the middle of the hood that isn't part of that kit, so that may have been added when they had the topper painted.

Good luck!

Yes, gas in the oil should not have anything to do with rain. Maybe you can "make" rain by spraying the truck?

My '84 Does not have the louvers, inside or on the ends of the doors. Just smooth sheet metal. We'll have to wait for Gary to chime in. I've honestly never noticed them before. Maybe they showed up later on, 1987-up? I think, with emphasis on "think", that the louvers started in '87. And I think the door panel itself looks like a later model one. As for the hubs, those are an aftermarket upgrade. All of the manual hubs had the plastic piece in the center and not the brass one shown. Again, from my memory.

It is a Ford with a Chevrolet name. Hence Fordolet.

There's only about a half a dozen people in North America that don't call them Stepsides...lol. Red cab, blue interior panels, and camper special mirrors. I still like it. It is rare - it is a Fordolet!

Thanks, guys. You make it worth it. We really do have a good group. And, speaking of "worth it", the outfit whose forum service we are using, Nabble, has apparently put some adverts on other forums. They haven't stated their intent yet, but it may be that they'll put some on here. Never fear, my intent is to keep it advert free, and I don't mind paying Nabble a little bit to keep them viable. But, in the next few weeks I'm going to be quite busy, and may not see the adverts immediately if they are put on the site. So, if you do before I do please call it to my attention and I'll work it in the background. In fact, I've already offered to pay some to Nabble to prevent it from happening, so hopefully we can continue to have an advert-free environment.

I missed the one-year anniversary of the Bullnose Enthusiasts. It was on Aug 4th and I was thinking it was the 9th. As of today we have 173 members & 1,372 actual pages of posts. My math says that at 20 posts/page we have 27,440 posts, although the last page in each thread won't be full, so maybe more like 27,000. Anyway, about 75 posts per day. Thanks to you guys for making this work. It is and has been fun, with only a few bumps along the way. I really enjoy the collaboration and spirit of helping each other in a friendly way, and the lack of bickering and contention that I see in some other places. Let's see what the next year holds!!!!

Yeah, Highboy is only 67-77. No Bullnose was a Highboy. And, it does look like it had A/C at one time. But might not be bad for that price.

Oh no! Sorry to see that. Hope nothing is broken or damaged. Hitting the ground hard, worse yet "pretty hard", is not good news. Please let us know after seeing the Doc.

I am not a fan of stainless brake lines. They are hardtop re-bend if need be and the big one, they are hard to seal at the fittings no matter how tight you get them. Who did you get the pre-bent lines from? 2 that I know of is Inline Tube and think the other is Fine line. Dave ---- Vinny - We have the Resources folder, and within it there's one on Brakes. Those are folders that carry links to other websites, and we could put a link in there to Amazon for the tubing. Is that what you mean? Dave - Mine are Inline Tube, and I won't buy from them again. The tubes weren't even close to being bent properly, and on of the fittings was the wrong size. The guy I talked to said they are really a GM vendor, and they don't know much about Fords. I guess not! I hope mine seal ok, but if not I'll replace them with nickle/copper.

Nice set for the price.

That's in excellent shape and it is a good price.

1983 and up

I think you could hang the nose ring from where the blue oval is. And, note that it is a 370 4V. And, it has clear turn signal lenses! I'd say it is an '80 or early '81 if they did the same on the med duty trucks as the light duty ones.

What would Bill say?? Yep, "Another clueless ebay seller." In Ford's infinite wisdom, the number on the part is not the part number. As shown here (Exterior/Exterior Trim & Moulding), a headlight door will be 13064-X. In this case X will be L if it is black or N if it is argent. It looks like black, but it is hard to tell the two apart in pics. Anyway, it is a good buy if you only knew what you were getting.

If it didn't strip out then you didn't get it too tight. And if you "cranked it down" you probably got it tight enough. Anyway, glad you got it fixed!

Yep. As shown on the page at Exterior/Exterior Mirrors: 81/86 F-U100/350 E2TZ 17696-D E1TZ 17723-A R.H. & L.H.-Black 6" x 9" single position