Gary Lewis

Darin - I believe all of the trucks came with 31 spline axles. But there’s a remote chance that the F100’s with the 4 1/2” bolt circle axles came with 28’s. I’ll research that soonest.

Well done, Mark!

See if that works for you. (Was tempted to move your pin to the CSC building at 50 and 495 where I used to hang out about 12 or 13 years ago, but decided not to.)

I would have taken that for stock. Well done! 👍

Early ‘85? Guessing due to the upper side trim. Anyway, looks good! 👍

The factory gauges are notorious, so while running all the way up to the L is not normal, it may not be bad. But, if you really are running that hot you need to fix that problem before working on the starting problem. And, there are two ways to address that: Use an infra-red thermometer on the base of the thermostat housing to see what the temp actually is. You should have a 195 degree 'stat in, so you should see the housing stay relatively cool, meaning below 195, until the 'stat opens. But the other side of the stat, meaning the front of the intake manifold, should come right up to 195. Then the 'stat should open and you'll feel the top radiator hose get hot and the thermostat housing should come right up to 195. Install an aftermarket gauge with actual numbers. It is a good backup to the factory gauge, and should let you figure out what is happening.

The hole has to be drilled, but it would have expected the wires to be behind the jamb. But what do I know?

Bummer! It does sound like a fuel problem, so the tank approach is probably the next step. But, lots of work. Make sure you look at, if not replace, all hose sections as a vacuum leak in them causes all sorts of problems.

Looking good, Pete!

Welcome! Glad you found us. The passenger's side switch was added at the Ranger level or with a lighting package but, as Chris said, the wiring should be there. For the seats, don't miss the Interior/Seat Interchangeability page. Start a thread in the regular section and add some pics of your truck?

The catalog doesn't show much on that boot, and the illustration below appears to be the best it has. But, the boot just screws to either the floor pan or the transmission cover.

Bumps?... Looks like it had AC at one time and was removed? What is up with the black dash and the tan interior? I guess stuff has been swapped in and out. The truck used to be red also;). The sound system! Rattle can special I guess?! It has '87 or later door panels.

That would be a pain. I'm thinking about the units that are just on top.

Ken and Dane, check it out please: Bullnose Forum/Member's Map.

Nice camp. The tent is similar to what I want to do on Big Blue. And that 300 six is nicely set up. 👍

Cool! Is the boat a Bayliner?

Two things: First, you might have better luck getting responses if this was in the main section. It may be that someone has mirrors they would part with and might not see this in "eBay & Craigslist Finds". I can move it to the main section if you'd like. Second, I assume you've seen the page on mirrors (Exterior/Exterior Mirrors in the menu). You can find the part numbers there and then check out the internet for new ones if you'd like.

Welcome! Glad you are here. Post us a pic of your truck. Also, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu). I can add you in Atlanta if you want me to do so.

I think that the range is 18 degrees of advance across 6" of vacuum. And it was decreasing the cut-in point by 1" of vacuum for every turn. We left it at 8", but I think you may have turned it two more turns. If so, it is coming in at 6" and gives the full 18* at 12" of vacuum. That may be too much for Jonathan's truck and, if so, he can back it off.

Nice, but a bit expensive? And, for that kind of price I'd want to know a lot more about it, as well as have lots of pics. Don't know if it is an auto or manual, has A/C, etc.

Tbird - David's question reminded me. We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'll happily add you to it if you'd like. We don't put actually addresses but just the city to ensure privacy. And, I like to put people's first name, but it isn't necessary.

Gary, you posted this on 9/13/14: We played with David's truck today to determine what his AFR is and what his timing is. First, we installed my AEM wideband meter and looked at the AFR:•Idle: Once warmed up it was about 12.5:1 •Cruise: At 62 where he ususally runs it was in the mid-15's on level ground, but climbing hills it got as high as 17.0 at one point. •Power: Once the throttle was open it went as low as 11.5 but normally at about 12.0 - 12.5. That said the carb, a 1970 YF carb off of an F350, is jetted just right. It really shouldn't be any leaner, but the truck runs well so it isn't too lean. And it certainly isn't rich. Then we checked the timing. The initial timing was set at 18 degrees, which was getting good MPG but made the engine slightly hard to start sometimes. And, it pinged at full throttle, so the overall timing was too much. As for the mechanical timing, at 1700 RPM where David cruises it was giving 10 more degrees advance. Then we checked the vacuum advance and found that it was starting to advance at 10" and was giving a total of 18 degrees 16" of vacuum, and at the 14" of vacuum the truck had at 62 MPH the advance was 12 degrees. So, total advance at 1700 was 18+10+12=40. Then we turned the vacuum advance two turns clockwise, which made the vacuum start coming in at 8", gave the full advance of 18 degees advance at 14". Then we set the initial timing to 17 degrees, and the drive determined that it pinged both at part throttle as well as full throttle. So we put the initial timing at 14+, giving a total of 14+10+18 = 42 degrees at 1700 RPM. And the truck felt happier with that setting than it has. Good find, David. But did you turn the vacuum advance after that?

Welcome!!! Glad you found us! How 'bout telling us about your truck? Or trucks, since many of us with this "affliction" have more than one.

Perfect! Exhaust gas in the air/fuel mix makes the flame front slow to spread, so the timing has to be advanced a long ways. But, since they only introduce exhaust gas during high-vacuum situations, like cruising, then they can't dial the extra lead into the centrifugal curve. So it goes into the vacuum advance curve. However, if you run a dizzy set up for EGR w/o EGR on the engine, like Big Blue's probably is, you'll have pinging galore under light throttle. Which explains why I have to pull the vacuum line off the dizzy when towing - until I really give it heavy throttle there's too much vacuum advance and it'll do worse than ping.

Jonathan - The port on the carb only goes to something like 11" of vacuum, assuming your carb is like David's. And 11" isn't enough to pull the vacuum advance on fully, at least the way I think that one is set up. So, I'd go to manifold vacuum ASAP. But, then you'll have more advance when cruising, so listen for pinging under part throttle. And if you have pinging then back off the vacuum advance by turning an allen wrench counter-clockwise (I think) a turn at a time until the pinging stops. But I wouldn't play with the initial advance to quell the pinging if the engine is starting well with that timing. Too much initial causes the engine to kick back during starting, but if yours is happy where you have it then I'd leave it and work on the vacuum advance. A simplistic, but not completely accurate, way of looking at the order of tuning is: 1: Initial advance. Dial in enough to get the engine to idle well but not enough to kick back in starting. 2: Centrifugal: In your case that's a given as David had that dizzy set up for his truck and that's a fairly close match to yours. But, what about EGR? There's a huge difference in the advance curve for with and without EGR, so what do you have? And, David, was the dizzy set up for EGR? 3: Vacuum: Dial in all the vacuum you can use w/o pinging at part throttle. Typically the most critical spot is your top gear at low RPM, but check it out to ensure you aren't pinging anywhere.