Gary Lewis

He's driving today back to Alabama. So he probably won't see your email until tomorrow.

If your truck has speed control it should have 3 brushes in the steering column. Look at Page 135 here in the '86 EVTM: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/speed-control1.html. So it seems like someone swapped the column, and that one doesn't have the 3-brush setup for cruise.

Just now trying to catch up after the show..... David/1986F150Six has one of those cold air ducts. He was trying to sell it at the show but didn't, so contact him. On the ignition box question, if your box has a blue grommet then any blue-grommet box will work. As for the seat, yes I do think it'll fit, as Steve said. They did change the floor somewhat in the mid-90's, but I don't know when. However, some of those trucks had a taller transmission cover for the E4OD or ZF5, and the floor covering, meaning carpet or mat, will be a bit too tall in the center - unless you use the taller transmission cover, which should bolt on yours. Don't know about the cup holder bracket. As for the ZF5, I do believe an F350 would have had one. However, I do not know about the speedo setup. I say that because Ford ran an adapter for several years that had an electric output as well as a cable output, and I don't know what years.

Ferdinand & Steve are now on the map.

Steve - You are now on the map.

I have a page on ground wires: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ground-wires.html. And the 1986 EVTM has this page on grounds: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/grounds.html But I do not think there is a ground for the steering column itself. The horn grounds through the ground brush in the steering wheel, as you can see here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/horn--cigar-lighter.html. I once had a problem just like yours where the horn would honk when the key was off, but not when it was on. Turned out that the ground brush was bad and the horn relay was grounding through the speed control. But, when the key was on the speed control was powered and did not provide a ground.

Welcome! Glad you found us. Where is home? Would you like to be on our member's map? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/members-map.html

Soon. We have bunches of pics from three cameras and hope to sort through them this afternoon and pick the usable ones. (Some are of people's feet when the camera went off accidentally.) And, we have to list out those that were here, plus the trucks, plus who won trophies, etc. But Chris wants us to re-time his ignition and sort out a steering wheel problem as well as find the trim piece he needs. Then Vinny wants to box his loot for shipping tomorrow. Perhaps after all that?

Jonathan - FYI, my son-in-law's cousin, Marie Shipper, has said she's looking for an older truck. I gave her a link to this thread, so she may call these folks about their trucks. She lives in Denver so these may be too far away.

The engine sounds good. Bummer on the coolant leak, but it may just be a hose. On the stuff/connections/wires: The plug: hard to tell 'cause I can't see the wire colors going into it. But if it is red/light green it goes to the capacitor/condenser shown on Page 26 here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/start--ignition.html The wiring: I suspect that's the carb wiring since you said it plugs into the device in the next pic. If so, it'll be the stuff shown on Page 53 here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/carburetor-circuits.html The device E4UZ 9B982-AA is a carburetor bowl vent valve for a 1984 F/U-150 w/a 351W w/a 4bbl The "little bugger" is associated with the choke heater as white/black would be that. Again, shown on Page 53, but one wire goes to the alternator and another to the choke. The relays are probably the choke relay and the 25 second timer. Orphan plugs: The green wire with a single connector is the under-hood light power source. It just hangs in the breeze if you don't have one. The big yellow wire beside it is probably the power feed to the trailering option, shown on Page 130 here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/trailer-option.html Remaining orphan plugs: can't tell as I can't make out the wire colors. Can you take a close-up pic for both of those?

I like the cover!

We missed you.

Bummer! We will miss you two. So sorry. But, there will be a next year. BE THERE!

Come on up, Randy!

I'd be happy with the gauge reading that way. Big Blue's gauge frequently sticks on Full+. And Rusty's gauge had a big gap in the middle of the range where it didn't work until it got close to empty. Having said that, I'm told that you can bend the arm on the float to adjust it. But, you risk making it worse or damaging the sending unit. I'd suggest living with it.

We actually have the full part numbers: Driveline/Clutches & Linkage.

Did you get any instructions on break-in on the engine? Lots of new cams are supposed to be run at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes w/o stop to break them in. On the timing, anything between TDC and 10 degrees BTDC would be fine for getting it started. You can always fine tune it later, after break-in. On the rough running, make sure you have the plug wires on in the right order. Beyond that, the rings have to seat to get good compression, so sometimes engines don't settle down for several minutes.

Excellent points, Ray.

Doesn't look like the reverse is true, meaning that replying on FB to posts shared from here doesn't get the comment posted here. So it looks like the feed is only one way. But, that does mean that we can post here and share the same post on FB, thereby minimizing the typing.

Gary, I was actually intending to install a Rostra cruise control (servo operated). I have some experience with these kits and have used them before. They are really accurate...you can set the gain, etc. I've already spoken to them, and the factory Ford VSS (already purchased) will work fine for feedback. I should note however, that my intention for cruise control is just to maintain a steady speed on the highway. MPG was not my main goal. With the 5spd and 3.08 diff (and 300HP 302) it is really easy to over-speed with this thing, and I had to concentrate to keep it steady (and slow...lol). Anyway, that's a project for 2019;). If you can tune it then maybe it will help with MPG. Anyway, it'll be a cool project. And, a big help when you come to visit in a year.

Well, it works - as those of you who are also friends of mine on FB will see. So, I suppose this means that y'all can post here and then share on F/B w/o re-tyoing. Is that of interest?

I've turned on a feature that let's us share posts to social media. To do so, go to More on any post, scroll to the bottom, and click on the appropriate button. I've not tried it yet, but will after posting this. So I don't know the ramifications. But, if we don't like them we can turn it off. Please let me know what you find, and I'll post my experiences.

Fresh off the scales this morning Jon, and it registered at 1680 kg, with me in it. So, that works out to 3696 lbs. Minus me at about 220 lbs dressed, and the truck would weigh 3476 lbs. That's with an estimated 80 lbs of fuel in it too (should be about 12.5 gallons in it when weighed). So, with coolant and lube oils, but with an almost empty fuel tank, the truck would weigh right around 3400 lbs I guess. Would that be the curb weight? Not sure how the weight of the fuel plays into curb weight. That's also without a spare tire and spare tire hanger assembly. I've been really curious about the weight, so I guess that settles it. I removed some weight under the hood when I removed the emissions equipment and air pump, etc. Heck, even the aluminum manifold is significantly lighter than the cast iron 2bbl factory intake. I was originally thinking that the dual exhaust added weight to the truck, but the more I think of it, it probably didn't add all that much. It now has two small 14" mufflers instead of the one larger factory style/size muffler, but at the same time, I also removed the stock catalytic converter and associated pieces. The shorty headers are probably a little lighter than the original cast iron exhaust manifolds. If there's any added weight in the exhaust, I'm thinking that it would really only amount to an extra tail pipe...if anything at all. It's probably a wash all things considered. The tires and wheels are definitely heavier than the factory set up. I have no idea how much, but it could be 15-20 lbs at each corner? I don't know. There... I've examined that to death haven't I?...lol. Wow. That is light for a truck. And, hope you can make it next year! Tomorrow is the show, and today people are arriving. We are having a gathering of Bullnose fans at our house this evening, but the show is for all years of Ford trucks. Perhaps as things, like the forum and the Bullnose contingent of the show, grow we may have a Bullnose section. Back on the cruise control for MPG. Maybe. I believe that most cruise controls are detrimental to economy, and the more power the engine has the more detrimental they are. That's because they always respond after you hit a hill and then try to maintain speed by opening the throttle abruptly. I know that I can easily beat the cruise control's MPG on Blue by feeding the engine manually, and you can see the difference on the turbo display. But, the Bullnose cruise is operated via vacuum. So it might be possible to use an orifice to slow the application of throttle.

I think the easiest thing to do is to just put the 5.8L in place of the 5.0L and run the original wiring and ECU. As Steve said, the system is bank fire so the engine's firing order doesn't matter. And, also as he said, the ECU doesn't determine the ignition's firing order. It just figures out when to fire the ignition, not what cylinder to send it to. But, the concern I have is the amount of fuel it will give the engine. It is geared for a 5.0L engine and is assuming it knows how much air is ingested. But the engine will be pulling in 16% more air than a 5.0L would have, so I'm wondering if the ECU will be able to properly compensate. However, you may be able to plug the 5.8L's ECU in where the 5.0L's is and it'll be happy. But, the question that needs to be answered before you attempt that is whether Ford changed something in the wiring between the two years/systems. Fortunately Bill Vose/85lebaront2 has done quite a bit of work that should help in answering that question. He's compiled in spreadsheet form the pinout of many of the different systems, and I have it on the website here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/efi.html. But it is going to take some work to compare pinouts. You need to go to the Pinout tab, then go to the 5.0L tab at the bottom and compare the circuit numbers for each pin with the same pin on the 5.8L tab for 1994. It is a tedious process, but I would want to do it before I attempted to plug the '94 computer into the '86 harness. And, speaking of harness, given the difference in mounting locations for the ECU, you are really stuck with the '86 harness. That's because your body style doesn't have the mod's that allow the ECU to be mounted where it is on the '94. And the serpentine system shouldn't cause any problems.

I wholeheartedly agree! There's something that turns me on about seeing an old rusty part (axle, frame, bracket, whatever) that gets cleaned up and painted with fresh black paint...even if nobody else can ever see it, it still is something to just stand back and look at for a while...lol. Yes, it looks like a wonderful project, especially when you have your kids involved.