Gary Lewis

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Steve - That's a nice looking truck. And it would certainly be in the top end of the trucks that were at my show last weekend. So, bring it next year! As an '86 5.0L it should EFI - right? So it has all the emissions stuff on it and that works well. Cool! That's rare these days, but is something to be appreciated.

Amen, brother!

I didn't take the tank or the bracket because at the time I thought it was the same as what I had. Now that is see that it mounts differently (and that you've confirmed it is correct), I will go back and grab it. The one in my truck with the 2 top tabs doesn't mount quite right anyway. They want $6.50 for it, and for that I'll grab it and get it all cleaned up. Thanks for confirming Gary!! You're a great help!

Hey Gary, Do you remember me posting a picture of my coolant/washer fluid tank a while back? (I was trying to clean it at the time). I think we determined that it was not an original Bullnose tank. Here's a picture of the one in the '86 F150 at the Pick N Pull. I originally thought that it was the same as mine...but the mounting tabs are different. Otherwise, it appears to be the same. The way this one mounts makes it look like a factory fit. Is this a correct tank? As a reminder, below is a picture of the tank currently in my truck (with mounting tabs on top). It does mount kinda wonky, so I have no doubt that it doesn't belong. Yes, the one above from the salvage is a Bullnose unit, as you can see here: Cooling Systems/Coolant Recovery & Windshield Washer Reservoirs. But it is an '85/86 unit, not the '80/84 unit that would have been in your truck. However, I think it is better as it has the hose going in at the bottom of the reservoir instead of at the top. Hopefully you got the mounting bracket as well?

Well done, David! But, I take issue with the 2nd one that says it is for an 80 - 84. There is no such thing. The bezels changed between 1981 and 1982, and it cannot be correct for both. It may fit both, but it cannot be correct for both. I think someone on here (Jonathan?) was explaining the difference, and I think it has to do with the raised bead and the type of mesh. Also, the first one has a removable bezel for the radio. Cinamon - I'm not sure how that will work with your radio as the 1980 - 84 radios were an odd size and didn't properly accommodate a later DIN-sized radio.

Ok, to make sure, you want a 1980/81 bezel with the black mesh weave and the radio cutout but not the clock cutout. Right? (The clock goes in the three windows above, and yours doesn't appear to be cut out.) That is E0TZ 1044D70-G. And for those looking for it in your stash, I believe it will say this on the back:

Cinamon - Assuming by "face plate" you mean the radio bezel, the part numbers and years/models are on the page Interior/Instrument And Radio Bezels. But you'll see that you need to specify if it is the black mesh weave or the "woodgrain", which is also called Rosewood. Plus, you need to specify if it is with or without clock and with or without radio. And once you figure all of that out someone on here might have one!

Paul - You are on the map. Man, that is NORTH!

David - Thanks. Rembrant - Take David's #'s to Fuel Systems/Air Cleaners/Air Cleaner Tube #'s and look in the Description column. (The number on the part is an ID or engineering # that is frequently listed in Description.) And you'll see that E5TE-FA is for an 85/86 351W 4bbl F250/350 with a GVWR over 8500#. Plus E3TE-DC fits 300, 302, 351, and 460 between 1983 & 87.

I'm not finding a tach schematic in my files. But, is it the tach itself or the connection you are needing? Perhaps if you gave me a link to the post on FTE it would jog my memory?

How did I miss that? Thanks, David.

I like the idea of grafting an NP435 shifter on to be period correct. As for a boot, they are listed here: Interior/Boots. You might get lucky and find a NOS one. In my experience the aftermarket boots haven't been very acceptable, but you may find better ones than I have. As for the Bronco, that is a shame. Sometimes you just have to walk away and let someone else deal with all of the ills.

Well, I don't think there's anywhere for coolant to leak from the back of the engine block, unless it is cracked. So...for a moment, leave that as a worse case scenario. Likely cause imho would be a leak between the intake manifold and cylinder head(s). Most common SBF coolant leaking area imho. If not from there, then I'd be checking the head gasket(s). Gary or one of the other guys on here can confirm...but I know on the 302, the later versions of these blocks (1984-ish and up) the head bolts thread directly into the coolant jacket of the block, and special thread sealant must be used during assembly. The earlier blocks had blind holes for the head bolts, so it was a non-issue previously. However, I'm not sure if this is an issue that is specific to the 302/5.0 or not. It may be the exact same thing with the 351 as well. If not one of the head bolt threaded holes, then maybe a head gasket. If not a head gasket, then maybe one of the press in plugs on the back of either cylinder head. (This seems the most unlikely to me, but worth checking anyway). If it was me leaning over your engine bay, this is what I'd do. Make sure the area at the back of the block above the bell housing is spotlessly clean and dry. Spray brake cleaner around if need be and let dry. Get some dry powder of some kind (like talc maybe?) and sprinkle a little bit around back there. Get a coolant system pressure tester (rent, borrow, or purchase?) and test. Look for wet spots. If everything above the bell housing checks out as dry and leak free, then I don't think you have much choice after that point but to pull the transmission or pull the engine. I'm certainly no expert, so one of the other guys on here might have better ideas on next steps. I agree with Rembrant. The idea of using a pump up tester is an excellent one as it will work quickly and will keep things cool and easier to work on. But you might consider adding a dye to the coolant. Here's one at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Engine-Cooling-Systems/dp/B002M4E0VC. They allow you to find a leak using UV light, which sometimes is the easiest and fastest way to find a leak.

Darin - Sooo glad you and Anita came! Good to get to know and talk with you. Hope you get home with all the loot. 😉 And, thanks for the pics. David is right - I like the one of Big Blue. But the one of the Mercantile is cool as well. People come from all over to see that place. But where’s one of the bison? 😎

I've actually seen a picture of the stacked ignition module installation. Mr. Reamer on here showed it to me when we met up for lunch a while back. It IS a great idea. I posted a pic of it some time back, but can't find it.

Yes, having to gather things up to go get another tool would be a serious time waster. Should be lots faster now. As for a tool box, you might also look for one of the factory underhood toolboxes. It can't be used with the aux battery so you'd have to chose which one. But, it looks cool and is very functional.

Welcome, Paul! I was even sure where Yellowknife is until I looked it up on the map - WOW! You really are NORTH. Do you already have snow? Speaking of the map, do you want to be on the Member's Map?

I doubt that would do it.

Another idea is that you have an intermittent short on the illumination wiring. Perhaps someone changed out the radio and you have an intermittent short on the light blue/red wire going to it. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/instrument-illumination1.html

So I went back to the pick and pull today and grabbed that ignition box (also blue grommet). Hopefully I can get it cleaned up and tested this weekend. It's just something to throw behind the seat for a spare if I get the opportunity to take the old 150 on a proper road trip. I grabbed the radio mounting brackets out of the '86...I had been looking for a set of those. Interesting...although this truck did have a radio (plain AM only), it still had no speakers in the doors...just the single on the dash. I guess this was normal in the bare bones optioned trucks? There were no wires going to the doors. I needed this pin below for the spare 5spd trans I picked up. It is what activates the reverse switch. It and the switch were missing from this used transmission when I bought it. Anyway, the pin is in the transmission top cover, in behind the socket where the reverse switch threads in. You think I could get that pin out? No way. A magnet would have popped it out instantly, but I didn't have one. I laid there on the ground for a minute and then decided to try my chewing gum on the tips of my needlenose pliers. Gum extraction worked like a charm! The only other thing I grabbed that may be of use was an NP435 shifter stick (it was laying on the ground beside the '86). I might see if I can graft this on to bottom of one of the spare 5spd sticks I have to make the interior of my truck slightly more period correct (not that I care that much, but anyway...). Oh...and I forgot to take a picture, but this '86 F150 just happens to have the exact same windshield washer/coolant reservoir tank in it as my 1984...which is odd, because I thought from a previous discussion on here that it was not an original Bullnose tank. I'll take pics when I go back. Sounds like you made a haul. On the ignition box, why put it behind the seat? I mounted my spare directly above the in-service module. Can't find the pic but can take one tomorrow. However, I used longer machine screws than needed to mount the original box, and came up from below so the extra screw length stuck above the box. Then I ran long connector nuts onto the extra screw length, placed the spare box on top of the nuts, and ran screws through the spare box into the connector nuts. That way the box is ready in case the original fails, and all you have to do is swap the plugs. On the reservoir, post some pics.

Looks like it is: 387811-S100 (BB—551—BT)—bolt (insulator to eng.)-7/l6"-14 x 1" And, that's good news!

It's only open to the HVAC system, so the air isn't "FROM" below; it's "TO" below, which is why I chose to put the filter there. This is the where to begin: http://supermotors.net/getfile/723279/thumbnail/07done.jpg ...but it may not be the end because there are other known problems... Except that I've done all that and then discovered that there's a problem somewhere in the red/light blue wire 'tween the switch and the solenoid. When this happens there's no juice to pull the solenoid in. But everything in the cab works, including the blower. When I first got the truck it happened frequently, but I did a lot of diagnostic work, including moving the wires, and it went away. This is the first time it has come back in probably a year, and I wasn't in a position to troubleshoot it at that point in time. Now it is gone again, only to return at the worst possible time. But when I take everything apart for the EFI upgrade, including taking the pedal assembly out to install the hydroboost pedal, I'll have a chance to check the wiring closer. Some really poor "mechanics" have worked on this truck, and somewhere they've done something that isn't apparent. One possibility is in the clutch switch. It's been wired around, so it may be there.

I actually did something to Big Blue today - I replaced the horn pad with one Chris/ctubutis gave me. Thanks, Chris! Yes, I know it is a Rosewood pad (from a van) and my bezels are burled wood, but the original burled wood pad fell apart. So I'm happy to have it. Plus, in the long run I doubt that I'll keep the burled wood bezels since they are turning purple, as most of them do. Also, today I drove the truck to a meeting at the church building and when I left it didn't want to turn over. The solenoid didn't engage. I was able to get it to hit quickly one time by pulling on the steering wheel, but only once and not long enough to actually start. So I had to use the jumper I carry as a backup and the truck started. And after that it started with the key every time.

I haven't, but with that info I will. The cousin and her husband aren't there, but her daughter and SiL are. I'll check. Thanks!