Gary Lewis

Love it! And, I passed the link on to Marie Shipper.

Interesting approach! I'd never thought of that. Cool!

I prefer to look at it from a different perspective: how many things can I keep working the way the engineers engineered them to work? This is an article I wrote about emissions systems. I'm not sure where exactly you're talking about plugging in, so I'm not sure what you're imagining is even possible. Many connectors changed shape between those years. I think that will result in the FEWEST issues to deal with. That's how I've always done engine swaps, and all mine have been very reliable & maintainable. That was one of several early EEC locations. That's the standard '87-96 location. Again: I think it will minimize your problems; both during the swap, and in the years of driving to come. I've never run the wrong EEC, but I've heard from many people who have that they run OK. The EEC will default to its (now-incorrect) baseline the first time he powers it up, but it will learn & adapt as the engine runs, and always try to achieve stoicheometry based on the HEGO. http://supermotors.net/getfile/507315/thumbnail/hegoloc.jpg I made this diagram, but it's actually based on '87-96 trucks: http://supermotors.net/getfile/892730/thumbnail/eecconnectors.jpg It may NOT be correct for older EFIs. I found that was pretty easy to fix when I put the '95 engine, EEC, & wiring into my '83's '82 body tub: http://supermotors.net/getfile/65187/thumbnail/body_lf.jpg http://supermotors.net/getfile/71679/thumbnail/eec-install.jpg Many people think that, but I helped a local friend switch his '94 Bronco from E4OD to stick, and he didn't want to buy another EEC, so he just drove it. We found that, although the EEC does set DTCs for the missing trans, those don't turn on the CEL, and it has no effect on how the EEC manages the engine. So it ran fine for many years. Eventually, he sold it to his brother (still running fine), so IDK what its current status is. Not even close. EFI is the way it always should have been done. Carbs suck. Steve83 - Please tell us more about how you put the ECA in the kick panel on your '82. I'm going with EEC-V on Dad's '81 and have been thinking through where to put the ECA in it. So I'm interested in how you did it as it may well be the way to do it for mine. It brings up questions like: Was the '95 EEC-IV or V? Did you have to dimple or cut into the kick panel? Were you able to put the plastic trim panel on? Did you have to lengthen the later wiring?

My grandtwins have just turned 7, so I can relate. But they are as different as night and day. He wants to mow with me, and she's tired of it. However, both were at the show and loved the trucks:

I believe those plugs are at the back of the oil galleries. It is where they drilled forward through or along the lifters for the oil to flow. And I believe there is a welsh plug at the back of the cam, where they bored the block for the cam bearings. So you might have oil leaks and coolant leaks. The intake doesn't always go down squarely. Brandon and I got his on at a slight angle in spite of using guide pins, meaning long bolts with the heads cut off threaded into the heads to align the intake. It had a coolant leak and we had to remove and re-install.

You are truly blessed, Jonathan. That's Charley? I'll bet you'll make a grease monkey out of her. How old is she? Maybe 8?

Ok, we are making progress. Now to find out why that brush isn't grounded...... Welcome.

Does this happen to be one of those for a floor-shift truck?

No, they didn't have anything on the rag joint. If it was me, I'd test by pulling the two Phillips screws to take the horn pad off. Then I'd use a jumper from the black wire, after pulling it out of the threaded hole, to a known ground. And leave the other two wires connected. See if the horn works then with the key off and with it on. That basically bypasses the ground wire to the brush, the brush itself, and the slip ring in the wheel. If it works then you know the problem is in that ground circuit. If not, it is elsewhere. Meanwhile I'll see if I can figure out how/where the ground wire is. But I already know that the true wiring diagrams don't help - they don't even show the slip rings and brushes.

Gary, I do have too much on my plate... and I know I can’t host or entertain, but if all that is needed is a secure place to park or a place to change fluids/minor repairs I can do that. 🙂 Ok, thanks. We will see if she's interested. I gave her a link to this thread, so she may be reading this.... Marie - If you are then I should tell you that you should consider a truck from the SW where they don't have salt. Or, even better yet, is the Pacific NW as they don't have salt and they don't get as much sun to degrade the plastic and paint. So, if you are interested you should monitor this forum as the guys frequently find nice trucks and post them here.

Sometimes you get what you pay for. That one looks good, and you say it is a quality item, so is worth the $65.

Yes, you need to get on with the garage. Or, maybe more correctly, telling us about it as I don't remember you telling us about the lift. Or, did I just forget it? As for a Kentucky chapter, sure! Then maybe you can get a bunch of them to come to the show(s)?

Well, if it spurred you to get another Bullnose, then it was well worth it. Seriously though, it was sure good to see you again, Ray. Please don't let it be so long next time. At least get back for next year's show? On the tags I've got my Bullitt one right here.

Clean, but not my cup of front end.

Big Blue doesn't seem to have any problem moving whatever I connect it to. But, the wide gaps in the transmission's ratios mean you really have to wind it up in 2nd and 3rd. Anyway, you got it moved. How'd you like to take it across the country? Blue made taking our 25' Sea Ray to Lake Powell quite easy 2 years ago. We got 11.0 MPG running 65 MPH - which is about what Big Blue gets w/o a trailer. I shudder to think about using him to have taken the boat on that trip.

The heater will smell so much better this fall/winter.

We don't have a how-to on removing and installing a C6, so please go for it. However, I don't remember any coolant plugs on the back of the 351W block. Perhaps others will correct me if I'm wrong. But if my memory is right, then you need to be looking elsewhere. The intake manifold is a likely culprit to me. There is coolant flowing through it at the very front and very back, so it could easily leak there and find its way down the back of the engine to where you are pointing. Was your manifold new? If not, they can easily pit at the interface with the head due to electrolysis, and it is possible that's why it is leaking - assuming it really is. I think you can get a dye at the parts store that glows under UV light. Put some of that in your coolant and then see from whence it comes.

Ok. And you are sticking the clip on the black wire into one of the bolt holes?

Well, IT WAS GREAT! And, because we were having so much fun I'm just now getting some of my "work" done to document what went on. First, here are the 19 entrants, with their Bullnose forum "handle" shown in parens: Larry Meeks 1940 Pickup Brian Poese 1968 Ranger Jeff Ingram 1983 F250 David Branscomb 1986 F150 (1986F150Six) Chris Tubutis 1981 F350 (ctubutis) Scott Ringler 1978 F150 James Markle 1985 F150 Tim & Melinda 1972 F100 Tim White Bronco Curtis Coffman 2000 Lightning Mike Oleson 1982 F250 Kyle Coffman 1978 Ranger Bruce Scott 2012 Ford Flex (Moose4x4) Matthew Mattix 1982 F150 Bird Johnson 1986 F150 Paul Terhune 1980 F150 (Rogue_Wulff) Brandon Holland 2001 Lightning Roger Cornett 1928 Roadster Gary Lewis 1985 F250 (Gary Lewis) And the trophy winners were: Best Paint: Brian Poese 1968 Ranger Best Engine: Mike Oleson 1982 F250 Closest To Stock (pre-2000): Tim & Melinda 1972 F100 Best Upgrades: Tim White Bronco People's Favorite: Roger Cornett 1928 Roadster Farthest Distance Driven: Chris Tubutis 1981 F350 (ctubutis) 685 miles from Denver But, there were several people here who didn't have trucks entered, and at the risk of missing some - to which I'll apologize up front - here they are: Darin & Anita from Australia (Oz Econoline) Ken & Gail from New Zealand (Ken Blythen) Vinny Simone from Newfoundland (vjsimone) Ray Cecil from Kentucky (Ray Cecil) Bill Kinsala from Waxahachie, TX (brnwaxa) Kevin, wife, and son from near Hope, AR (844RD) [sorry, I didn't get all the names.] Eli, son, and nephew from Peru/Niotaze? Kansas (Smokenchoken) Fred Nelson from Anderson, MO. [Not a Bullnose forum member, but he's the host of the FORDification show in early June] And with that, I need to process the pictures. But, I have 333 pictures from 4 different sources, so that is going to take some work. First, I need to sort out the pictures of feet. And those where the photographer was clearly playing around. And then work through the duplications that happen with 4 different people snapping pics. So, that'll take some time, after which I'll create a new picture gallery for them and link to them from here. But, since you've been patient I'll give you some to whet your appetites. And, if anyone else has pics from the show or the weekend, please post them up.

Steve - Do you have a standard, non-speed control horn pad on your truck? I ask, because I am certain that having one of those on a truck with speed control will cause the problem you have. Been there, done that. A standard horn pad just has a single switch in it and it connects the dark blue wire to the yellow/light blue wire, which puts battery voltage to the horn. There is no ground or black wire for that horn pad. So, if you put a standard pad on a truck with speed control all you are doing is connecting the DB wire to the light blue/black (LB/Bk) wire, as shown below. And with the key off there's no power to the speed control and it sinks enough power to pull the horn relay in and the horn honks. But with the key on there's power to the speed control and it no longer sinks enough power to pull the relay in.

Bill - Yes, the horn relay was only used with a speed control, and actually mounted on the speed control's electronics. And, check pages 108 & 135 of your '86 EVTM for the horn with and without a relay. (At least unless when I scanned your EVTM I somehow added that info. ) As for three brushes, here's my spare column, with the one circled in red being the ground, the one in yellow being power, and the one in blue going to the speed control.

Wow! My cousin lives in Hartsville. Will they be having similar problems?

Gary these are right down the road from me so if there is any way I can help let me know. I can offer a place to park and I have tools if anything needs done to make one road worthy. Jonathan - You have way too much on your plate, but that is a very generous offer. If she asks I'll let her know. Thanks.

He's driving today back to Alabama. So he probably won't see your email until tomorrow.

If your truck has speed control it should have 3 brushes in the steering column. Look at Page 135 here in the '86 EVTM: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/speed-control1.html. So it seems like someone swapped the column, and that one doesn't have the 3-brush setup for cruise.