Gary Lewis

That's a good suggestion. I don't know if there is a way to do Next or Previous. If I put it in the header and/or footer then every page would have that, and it wouldn't make sense to go from some sections to others. But, I do know that I can manually add a link within sections, like the EVTM's, to go to the previous section or the next section. Let me think about that. As for the wiring diagrams, the order and orientation have been fixed - I think. Thanks again for catching that. But, I do not have Page 4 of the 1985 diagrams. So, I'll take my 1981 and '85 diagrams out to the ladies that do my scanning and ask them to do Page 4 of the '85 and all of the '81. Also, I fixed the link to the '86 EVTM. I don't actually have the '85 EVTM on the site - yet. So that link was both in the wrong place and said it was going to the wrong place. And, I think I have two more EVTM's coming in a day or two, which will give me every year of the Bullnose era as well as several more. Maybe I can get the wiring diagrams done and then turn to the EVTM's.

I wonder if the problem Chris is having is that it hasn't loaded fully? When they finally load they are really crisp, like you said. Perhaps I need to provide it in a low-res version as well? As for the upside down and out of order, I'll have to go fix that. Thanks!

I've not run an AVS on a 351W, but recently set up one for Brandon/Bruno2 for his 351W. However, he doesn't have his engine in the truck yet, so we don't know how it runs. As for tips, the AVS is so similar to the AFB that there shouldn't be enough difference to worry about. And I think we covered many of the common issues in this thread. That would include fuel pressure, throttle cable bracket, and choke.

Woo hoo! The Air Valve Secondary was the next step in evolution from the Aluminum Four Barrel AFB. The big difference is that the secondary opening time is easily adjusted where the AFB requires a complete disassembly of the carb and either grinding weight off or adding weight to the bobber. But on the AVS you just hold a screw, loosen the clamp slightly, turn the adjusting screw, and clamp back down. Takes less time than pulling the air cleaner. I really like the AFB, but would much rather have an AVS. I'm sure there are other improvements, and Bill could surely tell us, but that's the one I appreciate the most.

Yikes! I don't understand. Here's what I see on all of my tests across 5 devices and 3 browsers. So what can cause what you are seeing? Have you tried another browser? And, is anyone else seeing it? And then I can zoom in to this size - w/o downloading the file:

That's strange. They work fine on my two Win 10 machines, my Win 8, and my iPhone as well as Janey's iPad. I've tried Chrome, Edge, and Safari. So, what pages are you having trouble with?

Now that you mention it I do remember that. I think "argent" was a well-used term that meant whatever silverish color they painted it. I know that Chrysler's argent wasn't GM's argent when it came to wheels. Hmmm, I have some NOS ones for Dad's truck. But, having just looked at the inventory, they are E0TZ 13064-L & M, which are the generic black ones. Thought they might be argent, but no luck.

Wow! They both look really GOOD! But I think I like the SVO one the best. It'll make people wonder if it really is since it is all factory stuff.

While there was already a page on here for wiring diagrams, aka schematics, the page was pretty useless as you couldn't really read them. I've changed the way the schematics are on there and now I believe you can easily zoom in far enough to read and use the schematics. (Unless you are on a phone, and then that would probably be an effort in futility.) So, please take a peek and let me know what you think: Electrical/Wiring Diagrams. Does this approach work? Should I continue in this fashion?

Looking good!

Ok, I give. I do not have an extra alternator, regardless of style. So, perhaps someone else does? I really do recommend doing a 3G conversion. And, I might be able to find the proper charging cables to go with a 3G if someone has the alternator by itself. Sorry.

It certainly won't fail the first 100x you air it up, but even 1/4"-wall steel will fatigue. And the corners will fatigue much faster than any other shape. So for any pressure vessel, it's a shape to avoid. That would certainly fit around the square tube, and it would probably carry the dead weight of the spare. But it would be very weak in the fore-aft direction, like when braking or accelerating, or when backing the spare into something or being rear-ended. It wouldn't resist the torque applied to the arm by the weight of the spare being so far above the arm. A thinner-wall rectangular tube would be much stronger & lighter. It would be more-crushable in an impact, but I'm still saying it belongs on top of the bumper. That would be the most-difficult latch to operate; most-susceptible to rust or even a tiny burr on the threads causing binding; high-wear on the threads causing looseness or thread-stripping... I prefer a spring-loaded latch (like factory), and in this application, it would be easy & cheap to build a reliable one. https://supermotors.net/getfile/479248/thumbnail/swingawaylatch.jpg A really quick, easy, cheap way to smooth the ride is to clean & grease the leaves. Jack the frame up so the axle hangs, spreading the leaves, and use a prybar to get in-between them. I was actually talking about the 1" tabs being overkill. If you want/need that size/shape, a 1"-wide rectangular tube with 1/8" walls is enough, at a fraction of the weight/cost. Right, but mine has been that way for decades, and it has never been a problem. Right - I'd put the tank(s) in the frame, between the axles. Long-drop draw bars are becoming common, affordable, strong, & safe. Since it would be integrated so high, it wouldn't need to be removed. And the draw bar could simply be flipped up or sideways. That's another good option, if the tube is an air tank, and can't have the plate mounted to it. But if it's NOT a tank, the plate & lights are easy to mount to the bumper face. I used the factory lights. ...or just run the wiring through the swing arm, up the spare mount, to a quick-connector there. You've got lots of options right now - once it's built, you'll be stuck with your choices, so take some time to make the ones that suit your purpose best. It took me a couple years designing my first 2 bumpers on paper before I started building them. The current front bumper was quicker, even though it's more-complex, because I used CAD. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1046591/thumbnail/bumpermkiicad.jpg Steve - You've given me a lot to think about. Thanks. I will be drawing something up on TurboCAD. But I'm still struggling with what it will be. However, I do agree with your thought that the angle will not handle the fore/aft forces. In fact, I was thinking that as I typed it last night, but just didn't think it through fully. As I look at it in the light of day, there would be plenty of room on the top of the bumper for a piece of square tubing, even as large as 4" if needed, and still clear the tailgate. Assuming it is hinged on the part that sticks out past the body. As for the latch, while I like yours, I want something more secure. I don't want there to be a chance that the whole thing will get loose and swing, regardless of what happens. And, I don't want there to be any up/down movement when underway. So, perhaps a large wing screw, maybe in addition to a latch? Fastenal has wingscrews to 1/2-13 with a 2 1/4" wingspan. I don't see one in stainless, but I could easily make one out of a stainless bolt and a stainless wingnut, possibly even leaving the hex head of the bolt showing for extraction if necessary. But, with a bit of anti-seize on it I doubt there'd be any problems getting it out. As for the ride, the springs are fairly new and still have their nylon slippers. (The PO put LOTS of new components on, including front & rear springs, front/rear Torsen diffs, and so on and on and on.) It is just that there are 7 leaves, and there's no weight back there. So, when the dust settles on what goes where and how much load there will be I'll probably remove some leaves and then put either overloads on or air bags. And on the tow eyes, the fab shop already has those made. I've not seen them, but will talk with him about how big they need to be. Last, I'm not sold on the integrated hitch. But, there's merit to it from the standpoint that it would attach to the frame MUCH more securely than the rear bumper does. My current hitch bolts onto the frame with three 1/2"-13 bolts per side, and looking at it I see that even if I want to keep it I could run a 1/4" angle forward from the bumper and sandwich it between the frame and hitch. So, I am thinking about it.

Guys - I'm turning the shop upside down because I should have three alternators: the upgraded 160 amp 3G; the 3G off the F450 that Jim sent me; and the one off of Huck. I cannot find the one off of Huck, and can't remember what I've done with it. Nor can I remember if it was a 2G or 3G. Anyway, I'm still looking. Will report back after a bit. And, I do remember that 2G.

That seems to say that it won't fit the Ford wiring. Does that mean you have to rewire the whole truck?

You can decode the certification label here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/certification-label.html. And you decode the VIN plate that is under the windshield here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/vin-decoding.html. They will tell you the real year of the truck.

It certainly does! Good eye. But, it says it is an '84 and I thought that trim was early-'85 only. There's no sign of that trim in the 1984 Bronco brochure I added recently. But, because that brochure is scanned at such a high res I was able to zoom in on the last page and find that it was printed in 8/83. So it was an early '84 brochure. I wonder if that trim was late '84 and early '85?

I added the information from the 1986 Ford Full Spectrum Recreation Vehicle & Trailer-Towing Guide that is specific to trailer towing using the F-Series and Broncos to the Towing page in Specifications. It is, in my opinion, easier to read and more complete than that in the owner's manuals.

The color varied by the year, as shown here: Exterior/Exterior Trim And Moulding. Some were black, some were argent, and some were dark charcoal. And there was even a gloss black option.

Nice find! Replacing the steering column (or just the ignition housing), and the brake booster are both easy (and inexpensive) tasks. However, the issue of the missing title I dunno...how difficult is that to deal with in the US? But $1500 for what should be a mostly rust free Bronco (if it's been in Oregon forever) is a real steal imho, even if it had no motor. That certainly is a steal if it isn't already stolen. The title thing is probably doable. Most, if not all, states have a provision for mechanics to be able to obtain a title to a vehicle that they've worked on but then the owner won't come to pick it up because they owe more than the vehicle is worth. I'm sure the process for that varies by the state. But, part of the process is to pay back taxes. So that can be a real big expense, and the question of taxes needs to be explored if it has been sitting for 10 years.

Wow! That look amazing! Very well done. It is going to be a shame to hide that.

I'm not sure what nuts you are talking about. Can you post a pic? I suspect that I've used vise grips, but I don't remember square nuts.

Most subs pull more power than you want to direct through the original fuse box and its skinny wiring. So, assuming that it pulls quite a bit of power, I'd run it directly from the battery, with a fuse right at the battery. But, maybe I should ask what the wattage is on it?

I've never liked that idea; and even less since watching an air tank explode a few feet from me. Even on my SWB Bronco, I was able to find plenty of room inside the frame to put a useful-sized air tank (actually 2). https://supermotors.net/getfile/951538/thumbnail/16oba.jpg Sharp corners (like square tubing) are natural weak-spots for pressure vessels. I'd avoid that. Do you mean the swing arm would be the rear-most object on the truck at bumper height when no trailer is connected? I'd be really nervous about backing into something or getting rear-ended, and damaging that arm. My front bumper & winch are heavier than those, and I'm not damaging my front wheel bearings yet, with several dozen thousand miles hauling it around on a 1/2-ton suspension. This was the previous bumper: https://supermotors.net/getfile/524743/thumbnail/weightbwinch.jpg The current one is slightly heavier, though I'm not sure how much: https://supermotors.net/getfile/997240/thumbnail/9321tethes.jpg Your 3/4-ton should have substantially more front-axle reserve capacity. What does it say on the VC label? https://supermotors.net/getfile/72354/thumbnail/doorsticker.jpg I put that in the middle of the chassis under the floor, so it actually helps the CG, and distributes the weight to both axles. The frame is less than 1/8" thick - it has never made sense to me to add anything more than double the frame's thickness to the frame. It's just overkill, and unnecessary weight; usually an attempt to make up for a poor design. My front shackles are on 1/8"-wall square tube inserts, and they've taken the full 12Klbs from the winch. If the pivot is outside the t/g swept volume, then the arm can ride inside that volume when the t/g is up. My truck's receiver was originally a few inches below the bumper, but when I designed mine, I integrated them. Look at this & the NEXT several: https://supermotors.net/getfile/292107/thumbnail/rear-seethru-s.jpg The design includes integral pivots for future mods like a swingaway, but I haven't built those yet. The factory swingaway has survived my "exuberant" off-roading style. To prevent the tires from slinging dirt (or dirty rainwater) up on top of the bumper, or against the front lip of the t/g. Think about how that will snag things that the bumper rubs against; on-road, or off-. Consider a t/g-mounted license plate, like early Broncos. Steve - Thanks. Let me try to address some of your points, but I'll surely miss something: I'm not looking at all that much pressure in the tank, and I doubt the 1/4 tube will be the fail point. Yes, it might fail in an rear-end accident, but the only time it is going to have air in it is when off-roading. Yes, sharp corners are fail points, but we will be far short of the limits of that tube and its welds in PSI. If I were to do the welding there might be an issue, but it will be built by licensed welders. I haven't settled on what the arm for the spare will be made of nor how it will attach, but I do take your point about it being the rear-most point. However, what I'm envisioning in my mind is that the arm will be made of two pieces of heavy angle that lay against rear of the bumper at the top and bottom of the square tubing and will be hinged with top and bottom bolts on the right end of the bumper. In the center the top angle will have a vertical square tube for the spare tire. And there will be some kind of latch there to ensure the arm can't swing, nor can it move up and down - and I've not worked that out yet either. Perhaps a bolt? But, when the arm is swung to the traveling position it will be up against the bumper. So when backing into something that is bumper high there won't be any damage. However, if the "something" is tall enough to hit the spare then there will be damage, probably of the tailgate. I'm not worried about overloading the front axle. But I do know that I have a lot of weight up front and for traction I'd rather not put more up there. And, since the ride is brutal due to the rear springs being so stout I want to put some of the weight in the rear. My auxiliary battery is in the stock position right now. It may be that it'll have to be relocated when I put the EFI on given all the things that have to go on the driver's fender, but we will see. The reason for going to 1/4" walls on the tubing isn't because it is a bumper or because it is an air tank, but because we are going to weld the tow eyes on it. My friend's fabrication shop has built a number of things for off-roading, including trailers, bumpers, etc, and they've learned that the tow or recovery eyes need to be welded to 1/4" steel to prevent the bumper from bending. So it certainly is overkill compared to the frame, but the thickness is needed. I like your bumper design. And I might go that way. In fact, I think I could still add the spare tire mount to it, but couldn't get into the storage area w/o swinging the tire out of the way - at least in the design in my mind's eye. However, that would do away with using the rear bumper as an air tank. And, it looks like it would raise the height of the hitch significantly, and mine is already very high. Plus, it would prevent me from removing the hitch to increase the rear departure angle. Hmmm, I'll have to think about this.... Yes, I see how the filler would help keep the yuk down. On the tag, I'm thinking that the spare would block it if it were on the tailgate, and I don't want to mod the nice 'gate that's on there. But, why not put it in the center of the spare? I could design a piece that is held in with the lug bolts and has a connector down at the bumper for the lights. So, thanks for the suggestions. They've given me a lot to think about.

A bit more info. A 76" long piece of 6" square tubing with a 1/4" wall will weigh 125 lbs. So, by the time the spare carrier is added this will be a significant piece. And a square tube of that size will create a 10 gallon tank, which is said to be a good size for a system with a York/Techumseh engine-driven compressor. But I need to remember to put a drain in it.

I used the donor engine's original air filter in its original location, relative to the engine (because the intake hoses are nearly rigid, so that's where it has to be to fit). That filter bracket goes where the older coolant/washer tank was, so I couldn't keep that old tank (or the old tool box or aux.batt. tray). And the new filter bracket is built to hold the new tank, which I also got, so I just swapped it all at the same time. I don't think it's enough to make a difference, but don't remember trying on the only 5.0L swap I've done. But you could still reach in from the front, and then from the back. Yes, the tubes are rigid. I have the full set for the 460 mass air setup, and the air cleaner is going right where yours is. I even kept the driver's fender from the donor so I'd know where the air cleaner really goes. And, I'll have the power distribution box, like you have, behind the air cleaner, so space is tight and I'll probably use the later reservoir as well.