Gary Lewis

Yep, I thought that was funny. Just wait until next Fall when the leaves start burning.

That's an UGLY illustration. Is your part in this one? If so, which one? (I need to get this on the website.... Oh wait, it is: Interior/Interior Trim and the Bronco tab)

LOL! Yes, if each webpage had 42 physical pages. But some don't really have any, and some have over 100. I really don't have any idea how many physical pages there are. However, in the last two or three days we've added about 150 of them.

Paul Simon? Hmmm, I'm not sure which one that would be. What came to my mind was: But what am I missing?

I added a page for the index of TSB's I just got today: TSB's/TSB Index. But, just one webpage gives you access to 42 physical pages. I wonder how many physical pages the 445 webpages give in total?

Well, that wasn't as hard as I thought, although I'm not real happy with the fact that some of the pages aren't a straight as I'd like. In any event, take a gander: TSBs/TSB Index. And tell me what you think of the link on Dash Panel. Granted it doesn't take you to that exact TSB, but I'd bet that's the new one that superseded the listed one.

Looks like a plan, and that a good one, Stan.

Looks lots better. Are you still going to pull the tint off?

I wouldn't put the old stuff back in as you'll probably have a lot of gunk in it. Especially since some of it will run across the radiator support before finding its way into the bucket. So, if you are going to have it flushed just fill it up with water. That way it'll be partially flushed just from that.

Lars - Welcome! Where's home? As for the diagrams, you've come to the right place. There are two documents that should do what you want: 1986 Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM): This breaks each system down into a page or two and explains how it works. Wiring Diagrams: On that page you will find the large 24" x 12.5" multi-page wiring diagrams. At first blush they will seem overwhelming on-screen, but if you use the pop-out icon they'll open up in a new browser page and you can zoom and scroll to your heart's content. So, are you building a doom's day truck? Something to withstand an EMP?

I just got another piece of literature that David helped me find: Ford's Technical Service Bulletin Index covering passenger cars as well as light & heavy-duty trucks from 1981 - 1986. It describes a problem that might be seen and then lists the TSB bulletin & article that explains how to fix it and to which years that applies. There are 26 pages of such listings for the F-Series trucks and another 14 pages for the Broncos. This thing is 353 pages long and is bound. But since it is also set up for a 3-ring binder, I think I'll break the binding and have the F & U series pages scanned. Then I'll OCR them to make them something I can edit, and as we find the relevant TSB's to put on this site I'll turn the reference text in this index into a hot-link to the TSB. That way you can click on the TSB number and go directly to the TSB. Now, there's a minor problem in that some or many of the TSB's in this list were superseded by later TSB's. For instance, the issue of the dash (firewall) cracking due to the hydraulic clutch for a diesel or 460 has a TSB of 85-9-38. But, we have another one on this site (90-16-7) that addresses the same issue. And yet the later one doesn't show to supersede the earlier one. Plus, the 85-9-38 TSB only covers the 1983 & '84 years, not '85 or '6. But the 90-16-7 TSB covers from '84 on. Surely it should cover the 1983 diesels and 460's as well. Hmmm, this is going to take some figuring out. But, it could be a very valuable resource to let us know what TSB's there were for our trucks, and then we can go find them. Speaking of finding them, I'm still hoping to find a CD of them. This book refers to the fiche that contain the TSB's, and I see #'s from 003 to 030, and that was just with a quick scan. So, there must be a lot of microfiche containing them, and I haven't found an easy way of getting the info from fiche to an electronic version.

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum. Hopefully you did do as I requested and read the guidelines even if you didn't create a thread in that folder introducing yourself and your truck. We take seriously the way we treat each other as well as the request to describe the problem and your truck completely and in full sentences. It looks like your truck has multiple problems, and we will have to stick to one at a time to get anywhere. So, let's work on the fact that the engine won't run and ignore the electrical issue(s) for the moment. (I don't think any '82 had electric fuel pumps and the fact that there's fire to the plugs says that even if he has a computer on the truck that it has power.) First, had the truck been running and then wouldn't start? If so, what did you do just before it wouldn't run? Frequently the last thing done is the culprit. But, have you checked for fuel? To do that remove the air cleaner, crawl up in the engine compartment, and while looking down the throat of the carb open the throttle briskly. You should see a stream of fuel squirt into the engine. If no fuel squirts in then there's either a problem with the fuel delivery to the carb, or the accelerator pump is bad.

I have thought about the point load, and fully expected your comment on that point...pun intended. Solution is to have a wood/steel base that the jack stand sit into, and a piece of plywood that I rest the jack in. As far as the vapor barrier goes, I did think about the plastic. But...the way pavers work, the layer of sand they rest on gets compressed and grips the pavers preventing horizontal movement. Also, the sand works in between the pavers and locks them together preventing rotational movement. If I put them on top of plastic, I am afraid they would slip around. I am going to have to rely on good drainage around the perimeter of the barn. I may need to dig a small trench and install a water barrier 12-18" down and tuck it up under the bottom of steel panels. Whatever I do, I need to make sure the walls can breathe once I finish the interior walls too. Moisture buildup will cause rot and rust the panels. I have pieces of 3/8" ply that I use under jack stands. They work well to protect the floor. And, I take your point about the vapor barrier. A French drain around the building might be a big help.

Yes, I've also "slit the throat" of the lower hose. But some hoses are hard to cut, and then some of them come right back where they were and it drains so slowly. If you are replacing the coolant there's the question of what to do with what's in the engine after draining. I don't recommend that you try to remove a block plug. They don't come out easily and might break off or strip out.

Oh...yes, sure...I can share the info, but I can't take any credit for them as it was Lariat85 that recommended them to me (and supplied the part number). Crown brand air ducts p/n J5358444. I think they're available from various suppliers, but I ordered mine from Quadratec since they had them in-stock and ready to ship. https://www.quadratec.com/products/51303_03.htm The few other places I checked did sell them, but they were on back order. Is this something we want to capture in Resources?

That's kinda what I was reading. Seems strange. My SiL was telling me what industries there are in Nicaragua, where the kids are supposed to be living were it not for the upheaval. And one of those is a wiring harness manufacturer. They make them for many different OEM's, and even shape the things correctly before binding them. But with the upheaval the business has gone away. So I was wondering if we could get them to make DS-II harnii for the various engines. I doubt it, but....

Haha...well noted! I too prefer them to be in some need of TLC. True story. Back before I bought my own, I found a gorgeous little 1980 Flareside that was fully finished in showroom condition with fresh 347 stroker sitting in the spotless engine bay. It hit almost every check mark on my want list, but the problem with it was that it was finished...lol. I need stuff to tinker with and work on to keep me busy. I guess it's obvious going by the time I spend on here that I don't really have any other hobbies...lol. Some days, I wish I did. Oh well, I'm never bored... OTHER hobbies? Sacrilege! HOBBY? This ain't no stinking hobby. It's a calling!

It would look good. But when calculating loads don't forget the concentrated load that a jack stand will give. That'll probably put dents in the wood, but not destroy it. And, you may want to seal things well because you'll have oil, water, brake fluid, etc on it. As for a vapor barrier, why not put down the plastic they us under concrete for that?

Wow! Beautiful!! And at $10,850 US it is a good buy.

Works for me.

I always make a mess changing a radiator. There's more coolant than you think, and it is tough getting all of it. It'll hide in the radiator hoses, especially the lower one. And the drain petcock will leak and/or dribble. So drain it the best you can. I like to use a 5 gallon bucket to drain it into because it has a wide mouth, which catches most of the dribbles. But the petcock is going to put it onto the radiator support, which will run all over the place, so I like to have a hose handy to wash things down. I've tried placing a small hose on the petcock, but it didn't help much. And sometimes debris in the coolant partially plugs the petcock, in which case a wire may help clear it. Then when you have the radiator drained as best you can remove the lower radiator hose. And be prepared for coolant to be hiding in there. If your coolant is new, meaning w/in the last year, you could reuse it. But given the debris you'll find in it, and the short two year life of the additives in coolant, replacement is the best bet. But the system won't take as much as you think it should on the first go. That's because it'll be full of air. And getting the air out takes time. I like to fill it up initially and start the engine with the radiator cap off. Some times you'll see the level go way down and you can add more coolant. But, as the engine gets warm the level will come up and then its time to put the cap on. Now you need to do several cycles of warming it up and letting it cool, all the while making sure that the coolant recovery bottle has plenty of coolant in it. As it warms up it'll push coolant into the bottle, but as it cools down it'll pull it back, so you want to make sure it has enough so that it never pulls air back.

I think Big Blue is gonna look just like the factory pic as Mark/Dyn Blin found hen's teeth.

I think your dog has a new home. Anyway, job well done. Now it is time to drive it?

Good lessons to know. And boy, does it look good! Just in time for the cold weather to hit?

Placeholder for what? But, I love the music! And the 409 took me waaaay back. I had its little brother, the 348. And I didn't have "dual quads", just a single Will Carter Four Barrel. (I'll swear that the 409 in the video had dual AFB's, but it went by so quickly that I didn't catch it for sure.)