Gary Lewis

Far be it from me to tell someone the wrong torque value and have him twist something off. So, I'd rather post the FSM page.

How's this?

That's a good read.

Which may explain why your ammeter swings pretty quickly. But 75A is about the max I'd want to put in. I say that because it is my expectation that the ammeter's shunt is rated for about 70A since that's the biggest alternator that they put in these trucks. However, the only way you'd hurt the shunt is if you were to have a failing battery or some humongous load that caused the alternator to go full-till for an extended period of time. And that's a very unlikely situation.

No, sorry, I don't. But it was a single inlet/dual outlet one since that's the style of Flowmaster that was on Rusty. And it was about 24" long. Hope that helps.

Let us know how it goes.

Glad to see that one more layer on the onion has been peeled. Soon you two will have a mess of onion rings. Maybe even a Bloomin' Onion!

This sounds like an ignition switch issue. The switch can make some contacts and not others, and I've certainly had situations where the truck ran but some things wouldn't work. So have Kris try turning the key back ever so slightly from Run towards Off and see if it helps. And the instructions for removing, cleaning, and re-installing the switch, along with adjusting it, are here: Electrical/Ignition and on the Ignition Switch tab.

Pete - I've read quite a ways and it seems like the question is how you are supposed to fasten that filler panel on. If I've misunderstood please ask the question again. Anyway, the illustration is here: Exterior/Bumpers and on the Rear Bumper tab. But, that's not really clear, so I've blown it up, below. Does that help? Did I misunderstand?

Yes, that looks really good! Glad the local shop was able to fix the springs to take the bushings. I'll check the shop manual later today on torque values.

Yes, but it also says "D7TZ 1130-L 7 1/8" diameter-black center ornament for styled wheels-front wheels", and I've just proven that D7TZ-L has no center ornament. It is logical that it wouldn't have a center medallion if it was for the front wheels, but that's not what it says. So, I don't believe the catalog and want to know for sure that it is right on the other caps before I start changing.

I agree that's very likely. Just want to make sure before I modify the catalog.

Yes, D7TZ 1130-L is black plastic and has an open center, as I reported above. But I'm wanting someone to confirm that D7TZ 1130-K is black with a red center. Then, once we have proof I'll annotate the MPC and change the web page.

Thanks, Rick. Yes, those should be just like mine w/the same #.

It would take an expensive custom module to do the conversion. It's much easier/cheaper/better to either put the '87-04 gauge into the older cluster... https://supermotors.net/getfile/65156/thumbnail/regeared_30890.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/76023/thumbnail/cluster-front.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/76022/thumbnail/cluster-back.jpg ...or (not as good) put the older sender on the later FDM. Actually, I've worked through how to convert the later sender to work with the Bullnose gauge, as explained in this thread: Bricknose Sender To Bullnose Guage Interface. Haven't tried it yet, but will do. And the Arduino will be used for many other functions. Plus, they aren't expensive at all. I've written the code and run it on a simulator, so am pretty sure it'll work. Once I get that nailed down we'll have an easy way to do the conversion.

I think that refers to either "chrome metal cap w/red medallion" or "black plastic cap w/red medallion", regardless of the various wordings. My '83 Bronco originally had black plastic w/red. I never saw a black medallion until '95, at which point all F-series got that color. Steve - It is certainly confusing. So I started a new thread, called Center Cap Identification, where I'm asking for ID #'s of the caps that people have so we can figure it out, for sure. I have a cross reference that will let me come up with the part # for anything in the Bullnose era as well as up to 1991, so we should be able to figure this out. Then I'll update my master parts catalog with accurate descriptions and replace the info on the website with it. And, speaking of that, I revised the page today because I realized that I didn't have the cross reference that the MPC includes on the page. But, it is there now.

On another thread we've been discussing, among other things, the center caps used on the 5-lug wheels. And, to me the master parts catalog is quite confusing as it says things that are seemingly in conflict with what I thought was the case. For instance, in 1980 it has these entries: E2TZ 1130-C 7 1/8" diameter-chrome w/red center ornament - use on forged alum. 15x6 wheel-rear D7TZ 1130-L 7 1/8" diameter-black center ornament for styled wheels-front wheels D7TZ 1130-K 7 1/8" diameter-red center ornament for styled wheels-rear wheels That would seem to say that these trucks got both black and red center ornaments. I don't believe that is the case, so I'm asking for you to tell me what the ID #'s are for the center caps you have and what color they are as well as what the color is of the center cap. And I'll translate your ID #'s to part numbers as I have an ID # to part # cross reference, and we will then understand. Note: I'm trying to nail down what the situation actually is. You are welcome to tell me what you think it is, but I'm really looking for #'s. So I'll go first. I have: D7TA 1A096-BA D7TZ 1130-L Black plastic w/no medallion for front wheels F0TA 1A097-AA E2TZ 1130-C Chrome w/red center medallion So tell me what ID #'s you have and I'll translate. The plastic ones have it embossed on the underside, and the chrome ones have a paper tag - that sometimes still has #'s on it.

I think it will sell quickly. Good looking truck!

Wow! You couldn't find any?

80/86 F100/350(99),U150: (RH) EOTZ 9927886-A (LH) EOTZ 9927887-A

The center medallion color is confusing. Here's an excerpt from the page on Driveline/Wheel Covers for the 1980 Bronco, first, and then the F-Series trucks. But, all years are shown on that page. I get lost in this, so I'm hoping someone can help sort through it.

If you go back and get the later door panels you should also get the lock mechanism and linkage. The linkage, meaning the rod going up to the knob, is obvious. But the lock mechanism isn't and obvious need. However, with the early mechanism and the lock rod to the knob you'll find that up is Locked and down is Unlocked.

Yes, the prep is the key on the panels. They have to be super clean, and you have to use the adhesion promoter and apply the first coat of paint soon thereafter. As for the price of gas, my 2015 F150 gets about 18 MPG and my wife's 2014 GLK diesel gets 35 MPG. We are planning a road trip and with the price of gas vs diesel the pickup is becoming an option.

Yes, it is really coming together! Well done! On the faster idle, that's 'cause you probably hooked the vacuum advance up to manifold vacuum. If you hook it to ported vacuum your idle speed will be right back where it was. I don't like manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance, and especially not for an automatic tranny. The issue is that it makes the engine idle faster, so you adjust the idle stop down and get it running right in neutral. But when you drop it in gear the vacuum drops because the RPM drops, and now you are idling too slow. But if you use ported vacuum none of that happens. I think your plan to get it roadworthy before working on the details is spot-on. There were be an infinite number of little details, so peel the onion after getting it on the road. And enjoy!!!!!

Even with half of it burned off, I love seeing them with the original paint like that. Around here, those trucks rusted so badly that by the 1990's most of them were already re-painted once or twice (and full of body fill). I really envy the selection of old trucks in the south and the PNW. Great stuff. Those are pretty nice trucks for the price. The Supercab looks like it is in excellent shape.