Gary Lewis

Check out Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/C6. This doc is from the '85 FSM and is ORC'd so you can search it. And it was scanned at 600 dpi so you should be able to zoom in and see any detail you need. But feedback on that would be helpful. And I'll check on the question about the governor......

Well, with the right bumpers... https://supermotors.net/getfile/1071023/fullsize/stump02ch.mp4 IDK why that's not showing up correctly (on my computer, at least), but if you click it, you should get a video. BTW I just noticed that the Cowl Screen TSB isn't searchable (and maybe more of those recent uploads). But I learned that I can right-click a PDF on Google Drive, open with Google Docs, and it instantly OCRs it (with lots of errors) but it dumps the images. Yes, with the right bumpers. I haven't even found the video. I click on the icon and get a SuperMotors page, but don't see a video there. However, I do see pics that show what you were doing in removing the stump. As for why it doesn't load, Nabble says it only supports "Youtube, Vimeo and LiveLeak". On the TSB's, many/most of yours haven't been OCR'd. But that's easy peasy so I'll do that as I process them.

That is a really good price for the whole set. 👍

You can see a bit of it here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/steering-columns1.html But if that is t enough I’ll try to get a closeup later this afternoon.

I’ll pull the C6 pages out of the ‘85 FSM and scan them in this afternoon.

I'm thinking that Steve83 posted something about that recently, but didn't find it on my search. Perhaps it was on body mounts instead, but I really thought there was something. Hopefully he will chime in. But from my experience you need to soak the fasteners with penetrating oil for several days before trying to take things apart. The way they were designed they capture water and rust, so expect to find rusted parts and maybe a rusted mount.

On my computer, or on SMN or BBB. But very few of the ones you're collecting (including the ones I've sent) apply to anything I'll own. I like these old trucks, so I like helping people who own them, but I don't want to go back to driving one. I'm not even really happy about the '93 Bronco I'm building - I'd rather build it more like a '94-96, but I don't really want to pull the '93 engine/trans and have them sitting around. Interesting. I like it that you are helping out of the goodness of your heart. And while I've been very appreciative of your help, that makes it even more impressive. As for driving the old trucks, I do like to do so. But, then I jump in my 2015 F150, which will light the tires sooooo easily from a stop and out tow the 460 w/half the engine, and I like that also. I was talking to my brother the other day about those differences and he said "I can't tell you how many times I've told the story of bringing Big Blue back w/Blue", referring to our 1000 mile tow from Florida to Oklahoma in 18 hours. He was thoroughly impressed w/Blue as we motored through the night at 75 MPH with all the creature comforts one can imagine. Gobs of power on tap at any time, engine braking when needed, and getting 9.0 MPG to boot - which isn't much below what Big Blue gets running light. But then I get in Big Blue and I like the brutality of the thing. It feels like it'll take on anything and win, although I know that isn't the case. So, I guess I have the best of both worlds?

If I remember correctly, you should have 3 tabs in the steering column onto which wires connect. One of them had a dark blue wire on it originally and that's where you want to put one of your black wires from your new center. Another had the black wire on it originally, which is ground, and that's where you want to put the other black wire. Let's do this another way as well. I think you said that if you put a jumper on one of the tabs and ground it the horn will honk. That's where the dark blue wire was and where one black should go. And when you are looking for a place to ground your jumper when testing to see if the horn honks, try the other two tabs. The one that honks the horn is where the other black wire goes.

The pics are awful, but even through the glare that truck looks good. And for $2K?????

That's a strange one. And it might be a grounding issue. Check the ground that goes to the firewall to the left of the radio. It is supposed to ground almost everything in the cab. Also, check to see that the traces on the circuit film are clean where the connector plugs in. You can use a pencil eraser to clean them - gently. And, the nuts that hold the tach in are to connect to the circuit film, so you can take them off one at a time and clean the trace below them.

It is really nice, and the price isn't bad either. But I'd lose the running boards.

I think it is a terminology issue. The AFB/1406 isn't truly vacuum but velocity. As Bill knows, the adjustment on them is a pain - pull the carb all apart and grind weight off of the lever arm or add weight to it. An AVS/Thunder series is MUCH better - turn a screw to adjust. Anyway, I think it is an issue when the secondaries close and then open again. Not sure how to fix it w/o getting another carb that can be adjusted for opening point. But first I'd get the tranny shifting correctly and the carb problem will probably go away.

Wow! That thing sounds wicked! But I did hear the spitting/bogging when you shifted it, and it doesn't sound like accelerator pump. If you had accelerator pump problems then when you first hit it the engine would have bogged - and it didn't. And the bog when you shifted it was much too long to be due to the accelerator pump. But I don't know what it is. Perhaps the secondaries are coming open too quickly? Maybe Bill has an idea?

Well, I actually did reach out to my best source of input - my wife. And her input was basically the same as yours. So, unless someone else wants to help us here, ..... But, how are you going to find the TSB's?

I was apparently wrong. I can't find the clock for Dad's truck. I know it is here somewhere. Anyway, that got me to thinking that we didn't have a page on clocks, but we do now: Electrical/Clocks. Anyone have the instructions for the clock from a 1980 owner's manual?

That would be me, and I endorse this advertisement.

Be careful w/a 600 CFM carb on a hot 400. Tim Meyer said he's seen that sized carb be enough restriction in the intake for the vacuum to come up enough to pull in the vacuum advance, causing detonation. He urged me to go to a bigger carb than a 600. But, a 1406 has an adjustment on the accelerator pump, and I'd suggest you adjust it according to the instructions on Page 8 in the Owners Manual. And, I do think it has to do with "pedaling it". As said, air rushes in where fuel fears to go. (Wait! Is that it? ) So you have to supply a shot of fuel with the accelerator pump as you come back in rapidly with the throttle - as described on Page 5 in that manual. As for the kick-down linkage, the '81 FSM says "The carburetor full-throttle stop must be contacted by the throttle linkage and there must be a slight amount of movement left in the downshift linkage." But, back to the Eddy 1406, there is a note in the FSM to test the shift points of the transmission with both 18" of vacuum, simulating part throttle, and 0-2" of vacuum, simulating WOT, on the diaphragm. That suggests that the tranny is expecting WOT to have less than 2" of vacuum. I don't know what the tranny will do with more than that on it, but it might be something to check.

Yes, I think you are correct. I just found a table in the 1948-56 truck MPC that shows brake drum sizes. As you can see, the front drum sizes seem to fit nicely with the measurements shown on the document I have on the Front Brakes/Pads & Shoes tab:

No road trip for Darth?

Hey Ferdinand, Not sure if this is any help with your design or not, but here is what I'm running for Magnaflows on my 1984 short wheel base. (How much shorter is the Bronco, anyway?). Note: I'm running a 302, and my duals are 2.25" all the way through. https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=11235 The same muffler but for 2.5" pipe would be the Magnaflow 11236. I'm running BBK shorty headers, so up front the duals were run pretty much in the stock location as the stock Y-pipe. Mufflers were mounted vertically with the offset bottom inlet and offset top outlet. Stock hangers were re-used. My exhaust was installed with the spare tire mounted under the frame in the stock location, so the pipes had to leave enough room for me to not lose that mounting. I was trying to follow Lariat85's truck as a basic template for my tailpipe exits. I wanted the angled tailpipe sticking out behind each rear wheel, but short and tight to the body. Just like in the picture of his truck below (which I printed and took to the Muffler shop with me...lol...thanks Lariat85!). Mine is a Flareside of course, so the exists aren't quite identical as his, but his tailpipes very clean and tidy looking in my opinion. Ferdinand - I'd forgotten about that ground burning. But with it melted you obviously had way too much current through it. How big is it? That suggests that the fender isn't getting grounded the usual way. With the exception of the diesel trucks which had two extra grounds going to the RH fender, it appears the whole body arrangement was supposed to ground via the single ground from the engine to the firewall. (You do have that one, right?) In other words, all of the fasteners holding the fenders to the cab, and the radiator support to the fenders were supposed to be the electrical path. But if those fasteners and body parts have been painted then there's a good (bad?) chance that the ground path will be poor. If it were me I'd take that burned ground off and check voltage drops from the battery's negative post to the radiator support, fenders, and cab - with the engine running and lots of accessories turned on. And then, if the voltage drops are considerable as I expect them to be, I'd put ground wires to several places. Rembrant - Those pics are awesome! I like the routing. How does it sound?

Wow! Probably all the parts he needs to finish his and have another one to boot.

Oh yes, I think most exhausts run the driver's side to the passenger side up ahead of the transmission. And if you could do that you'd have more room for muffs toward the rear as you wouldn't have the 90 right there by the transmission's crossmember.

I know you asked Steve, but I'll comment as well on the muffs. Magnaflow makes a dual-inlet/dual-outlet muff that might work for you if space is tight. But you might be able to run oval muffs vertically to get clearance. Anyway, that's cool the way you've run the exhaust using PVC pipe. That's ingenious. On the smoking, you haven't found burned wires? Can't see smoke while idling w/the hood up? Perhaps you have a valve cover leak or the sending unit is leaking and hitting the exhaust?

IDK - what vehicles are you talking about? AFAIK, F-series & Broncos haven't had front drums since before '78.

But the mechanisms inside the clock for those buttons is mind-boggling. Technically, I DON'T "have" that clock right now... I mailed it to my brother (who repairs MRIs for a living in FL) several years ago, and he hasn't sent it back yet. I think I have one of those clocks. I forget which years had them, but I'll look tomorrow and let you know.