Gary Lewis

While we are waiting for the experts to chime in, I took a look at the MPC and the Interchange page. Seems that the starters changed in 12/83 and then again in 1987, and that's for 300's, 302's, and 351W's. But then it gets murky as the 351W changed again in '89, but the 300 and 302 didn't change until '91. Last, as of '92 they were all the same again. (Boy did I word that poorly! ) But, what I can't tell is how many teeth on the flywheel. Sorry, this is a really confusing area to me.

When I did Huck, the half-truck, I was knee-deep in parts with no where to put them. It was a huge mess. I feel for you.

I think you are going to have to have that done, and the sooner the better. I fear that the metal is rotting under the windshield. But I hope not.

Yes, I think you are right, now that I look at it. But, it could be "Bullified" a bit. (Anyone see Wicked? De-greenified comes to mind.)

Ok guys, thanks a bunch. Cory - Your description fits some of the things I have, but somehow I'm one short. Dave - See if yours have #'s on them. Some of mine have #'s or lettering. One pair is obviously the ones for the front of the radius arm bushing as they say Front on one side and To The Rubber on the other. But I may have the wrong cupped washer to the rear of the radius arm bushing. Steve - Thanks. I'll amend my MPC with the right torque values. And your pics look a bunch like some of the cupped washers I have. As said, I may be using the right ones in the wrong places.

Maybe you can answer my question on the Lower Spring Retainer?

Jochen - Hello! Looks like your truck's doing you well. As for the fasteners, Jim is right - things are a mix. But one of my favorites is the A/C compressor - some metric and some SAE fasteners to hold it on.

If someone is trying to make a 100 point restoration, then maybe. But, who "restores" a truck to that level? You can get the replacement lenses for about 1/10 of that.

Yep, that's a piece of it.

Yipes! $200 for just the brackets and fasteners?

Not a bad price and it looks good. Still expensive, but less than some I've seen.

Well, I called Prothane today. Turns out that the metal shells are still in the swing arms. That's actually good 'cause they've been powder coated and are ready for the bushings. See Dad's truck thread for the progress.

Ok, made some progress today. But, I also need some help. So, let's go to the needed help. The master parts catalog shows a Lower Spring Retainer, as shown below. But I can't find them and need to know what I'm looking for. (Also note a big error - those bolts are 3/8" and they'll strip long before reaching 240 lb-ft. ) This is where the MPC shows that part goes, with the red circle showing where it would go. Could someone show me what theirs looks like? Anyway, I got the left "axle" in, along w/the spring, shocks, and radius arm. But, along the way I realized that several of the fasteners haven't been powder coated, so once I get them rounded up I'll blast and PC them.

I'd track the cable and see if something is binding it or in the way of the control arm at the end. And pulling the glove box liner might give you a better view. But, my guess is that the hinge isn't working. You can see the diagram of it on Page 84 here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/heating-ventilation--air-conditioning.html. If the cable wants to work and the door is the problem then we will need to point you at the right instructions for that, but one thing at a time.

Vacuum and compression tests do help determine how the engine is performing. However, in my experience a leak-down test takes it even further. I had an '82 351W that idled very roughly, but passed the compression test with flying colors. And the vacuum at idle was reasonable, although it had glitches in it. But a leak-down test determined that 4 cylinders had leaking valves - and two sets of those four were adjacent to each other in the firing order, which caused the roughness. On the other hand, there was little leakage past the rings. So having the valves ground solved the problem.

It really does look good! Can't wait to see it all come together. The day where your truck is delivered/picked up from the body/paint shop is a really, REALLY special day. I remember it well, and it sure felt good. CONGRAT'S!!!!

If the engine is otherwise running well and not using a lot of oil there's no reason to rebuild based on that oil pressure.

I've not seen anything different or better between the rear vs mid-ship sender, so don't think it matters. But if you are buying you might get one for the 33 gallon Bronco tank as it has a longer float arm, which may be required in your application. However, what you probably will want to do is to put the sender in and peer in via the filler hole and get the float to be at the top of the range when at the top of the tank, and vice versa. That may require bending the arm and/or changing the length thereof.

I did ask for it, and I certainly appreciate your detailed response. Thanks, I'll work through it later today. Hopefully by then I'll have a call back from Hagan at DB Electric. I just called and got his voice mail so left a message.

I hear you! Yesterday I got up at 3am to hit the garage and it was 40* out side and felt cold so never made it out. Up at 6am today and it was 28* out side and just knew the garage was cold. Had to put something in my garage about 11am and it was 40*in there ........ yep to cold. Both days I stayed in the house with the fire place going nice and warm besides the truck will still be there when I am ready Dave ---- Dave - These guys seem to be making progress, but we are warm. Right?

You probably found this page and tab, but just in case: Driveline/Clutches and Linkage and the Clutch Linkage tab.

Wow, this takes me waaaaaay back. WA0FFF was the handle back then. And 11 meter is CB IIRC. I used to work 80 and 40 with my Heathkit transmitter and Knightkit receiver - the latter I still have, I think.

That's lots of pressure.

Progress is good, as Jim/ArdWrknTrk says. How 'bout some pics of that tool you are making?

That doesn't sound good. But have you determined that the windshield is moving? Might it be air coming out of the cab and pushing the wiper? Do you have any water leaks?