Gary Lewis

Put a Bullnose front clip on it. Probably is a Bull inside.

I don't mind it if I'm working. Finger tips were a little nippy, but I was warm otherwise. Had boots and coveralls on, so I was well insulated. I've got the heat cranked to 70F in the shop just to compensate. Hope you can feel it.

Excellent! Well done.

Happy to help. That's what this forum, and the accompanying website, is for. And, speaking of the website, I'm scanning in the section on the Front Drive Axle as I type.

That looks COLD! I worked outside at about 40F the other day with almost 100% humidity and it gave me a chill that was hard to shake. The older I get the less I like cold. Anyway, glad you got some parts. I'll stay warm and follow along from my arm chair.

That is probably this one: 86/ E150/350 E6UZ 9A050-A #E6UB 9A050-AB - 6 terminals-mounted beneath instrument panel The "86/" means it was used at least until the end of the catalog, which was '89. But only on the vans.

James - I've added the instructions from the factory shop manual to this page (Driveline/4WD Front Hubs And Rotors) on the Instructions tab. See if that helps, and let me know what else you need.

No, ours go on the right side of the HVAC controls.

I'm a little confused, but what's new, when looking at your pics. But, have you gotten the snap ring out? There's a ring w/o tabs for a pair of snap ring pliers that sits in a groove. Easily missed as the ends almost touch. You have to work on it w/a small screwdriver to get an end up and bring it out.

You are now on the map. As for the rotor, how far into that are you? I just need to know where to start in the instructions.

Welcome, James! Good to meet you. Where in Oregon? We have at least three other members there, as you can see on the member's map: Bullnose Forum/Member's Map. And I can add you to the map if you'd like - just give me a town/city and I'll put you on. As for the u-joints for the front axle, we just had a discussion about the Spicer part number for them here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Spicer-U-Joint-Part-Numbers-td21298.html. But that didn't talk about how to do it, so if you have specific questions on that subject then please let us know.

I'd often wondered which cleaner was the HD one, and I'll bet you are right - it is the tear-drop one.

Steve - The last one is cool! And for the price it would be nice to have if you were testing an alternator. By the way, did you see my link to your clocking instructions in the draft 3G page? It is about half-way down on the Wiring It tab, under A Word On Clocking. Just want to make sure you are ok with that. All - Still looking for feedback on the whole thing, but especially on the choke discussion. I see no reason to have it because the 3G supports an e-choke off the stator wire just like a 1G does. So, is there any reason to keep it?

Welcome! This is a service I do my best to provide to members of this forum. But there are just too many Facebookers and I'd be forever busy helping them, so I limit my help there to pointing them to existing documentation. (I'll confess that I love ending debates. Just this morning those with little knowledge were debating what bolt pattern the F100 wheels were. And yet-another person who cannot, or at least will not, read just expressed his incorrect understanding on the subject. Had he only read the Bullnose FAQ's and the F100 tab he would have understood. ) Anyway, I agree that just about any of the vacuum motors should work fine.

Interesting. That filter element was only used on 1980-86 trucks w/the 300 six, and it notes "w/unleaded fuel and heavy duty air cleaner".

The advert, which has ended, was for "E0TZ1013208C" and it was correct for our trucks. There were both aluminum, which fit both the right and left sides interchangeably, and the black plastic ones which were specific to the side. Both were used throughout the Bullnose era. All that's shown on the Interior/Sill Plates page.

I wondered why I didn't have those vacuum motors listed on a page, and now I know - the MPC doesn't list them separately for each application. Instead they are buried in the Calibration Parts List for each application. To explain further, here's a small portion of the listings for 1981 F100's and F150's. I've highlighted the 4 different calibration codes that it looks like they might apply to your truck. (But you can nail it spot-on if you can find the calibration code, as explained here: Specifications/Calibration Codes.) Now, the question is what those parts lists contain. I've shown all four of the parts lists below, but they all say that you need the same part: D7TZ 9D612-B, which is Motorcraft # CX-120 and "color code brown". Several other Vacuum Motor assy, (carburetor air cleaner) were used, including: CX-106; D4FZ 9D612-A which doesn't seem to have gotten a Motorcraft #; CX-361 which is color code pink; CX-674; CX-141; E2TZ 9D612-A CX-718; and on and on. But from what I saw it looks to me like the CX-120 was used more than any other, so it should be easy to find.

What part numbers do you have in your cart? I'll check them out vs the catalog as well as see what else I can find.

Well, I've been poking around using the part #'s that BB shows on that link (7756-3N-2G, F2UU-10300-DC, F2UZ-10346-B, F2UZ-10346-BRM, F2UU-DC, 7756-3) and I get from no results to conflicting results. On the Interchange page I cannot find those #'s. Here's what it shows for 1992 E-Series: DB doesn't show most of the BB part numbers, and the one it does show has a serpentine pulley. And, from what I can find, all of the ones that would fit a 7.3L have the 3-point fixed mount awa a serp pulley. But their #'s don't match any of the ones in the Interchange. I am CONFUSED! What am I missing? But, on a positive note, I've formatted the spreadsheet differently to make things more obvious/intuitive. That's 'cause I asked my wife what she understood from the previous format, and she misunderstood what was intended. So, I revised it and bounced that off of her. See what y'all think.

Guys - As far as I'm concerned it is ok for you to discuss price "in the open" - if you want to do that. That's not my cup of tea since it might lock me into similar pricing for others at a later date. But that's your call. Similarly it is ok for you to put your email addresses "in the open" in here. But, there's another way you might not know about - simply click the person's "handle/name" above their avatar and then click the "Send Email To" button. This keeps your email address private and only the members of the Bullnose Forum can send you email. Again, it is no problem if you want to do the whole transaction where everyone on the interweb can see it. But, I just wanted you to know of an option. And, by the way, you can edit your previous posts to remove info if you'd like. Simply hit the More and then Edit Post options.

Man, you are ON FIRE! Ok, I need to add that to the spreadsheet. Thanks. I'm headed to bed (I know it is later there) so will do it tomorrow.

Good find! But I don't see the Ford part number. Am I missing it? However, I did see that you can pay $29.99 for a 1 year protection plan - on an item with a lifetime warranty. Somewhere I have a sound effects LP where a guy walks up to the customer service desk with something that has a lifetime warranty. He says "It failed" and you hear a pistol cock and fire.

Yes, I agree that the Lester # may be the way to go. I can cross-ref from the part # to the Lester number on DB's site. And, speaking of cross-ref, our Interchange page shows two alternators for the '92 E-Series w/a 7.3L" 92-92 8CYL, MOTORCRAFT, 100AMP, 7.3L DIESEL F0PZ10346CX 88-97 8CYL 7.3L LEECE-NEVILLE,165 AMP F4UZ10346AX The Motorcraft is probably a 2G.

I don't see a listing for it either. Jonathan???

Both the 1985 and '86 EVTM's say the ECA, which is the computer, is located "under rear center of instrument panel". But the ECA started to be used in at least '82, and in that case it was under the driver's seat. On the plans, it seems like you have them thought out. And the wiring is called a harness, which is much easier to shorten than lengthen.