Gary Lewis

I'm sorry, not clear on that. I would say look them over closely, as Steve83 said on replacing parts, don't replace unnecessarily. I was reporting which brand and grease I used. I should have caught that mine were bad, I feel. Steve - That's kinda where I am. They must have been really good to have gotten this far. And I've heard/read horror stories about some of the new bearings. Grumpin - Now I understand. Thanks for the clarification. All - I'll clean them thoroughly and report back. (It may be tomorrow as the couch is calling. )

Steve - Good points on the light/resistor. I didn't write that and will admit I didn't look all that closely at it, but I'll edit that part. And, I'll try to find the typos, but if you see some please point them out as I can use the help. Mark & Steve - Good points on the choke as well. I like the idea of a new tab and moving it there, maybe with a reference to it in the Wiring It verbiage. Let me see what I can come up with.

Ron - I don't know why. It isn't doing it to me, but I do know it has happened to others, like Steve. How 'bout trying this: Hit Control and "+" at the same time. That zooms the browser window in, but sometimes it fixes things, like the Preview or Submit buttons disappearing. And then you'll want to hit Control and "-" to get your zoom ratio back to wherever you had it.

Yeah, but I have the Prothane - in back. I see that yours need that shell, and the Prothane may as well. Guess I'll call them tomorrow.

It was a lot more off-putting than "Not secure" and a red triangle:

It appears that Weebly has fixed the problem and we are back up. But, it wasn't just us. Many, MANY sites around the world were down. Weebly has some 'splaining to do.

I hear ya Gary. It's just that my eyes get all glossed over when when I see something with no rust...lol. (Not only no rust, but the black paint still on the frame....OMG...I wouldn't even know what to do with it).You'd have to store it "down south". 😎 On Sun, Feb 10, 2019 at 3:37 AM Rembrant [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

But, by the way, a safe way to communicate is via email responses. Yes, I realize that they carry a LOT of extra baggage with them, but for now it is safe. And, by the way, if we'd turned on HTTPS making the site "secure", it wouldn't have made a difference as people with HTTPS turned on are having the same problem. Gary On Sun, Feb 10, 2019 at 6:30 AM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

Ray - That's kinda what I'm wondering about. I'll clean the bearings completely and look closely to make 100% sure. Grumpin - I think your vote is new? On Sun, Feb 10, 2019 at 12:43 AM grumpin [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

Folks - I just had Chrome tell me that our site is infected. Then I tried to go to the Weebly site that hosts our Nabble site and was told it is infected. But I found that Weebly is telling everyone via Twitter that all is well and it is Chrome that is wrong since you can get in via any other browser. I'm now in via Edge and things seem fine, but this is bizarre. Sorry!

I like it! And I especially like the color combo. What year is it?

I go to the parts store and rent their ball-joint press. Works great.

That's a really nice truck, but I don't know that it is THAT nice.

Thanks for the replies. It really isn't the cost. I'm WAY too far in on this to balk at new bearings. It is more the thought that these bearings, which are probably the original ones, must be good if they've made it this far - maybe 150K miles. I've seen/heard people complain about cheap bearings today, so was just wondering what everyone's thoughts were regarding replacing what appear to be good bearings with potentially inferior ones.

I tend to remember that one bolt is hard to see. Maybe that's the one you missed?

Happy to help. I'm sorta working on the same thing, so thought we could use those bits from the factory shop manual in an easy-to-find place.

There are the bolts holding the column to the firewall as well as the ones to the mount on the bottom of the dash. Do you have them out?

Got a bit done today, but came up with two questions: Front Axle Bushings: I started a thread asking for help on this since I didn't figure many would see the question here Wheel Bearings: I didn't start a thread on this, but the question is whether y'all think I should replace the front wheel bearings and races? They look perfect, and I know that Dad would have put them back after cleaning and packing them. On the other hand, while I'm in there..... And on to the progress - I replaced the plated washers with stainless ones on the radius arms. Plus I started cleaning the front hubs, and ran into the question re wheel bearings.

I added two documents from the factory shop manual to the website: Front Drive Axle: This is a 21-page document, and it is on Driveline/Axles & Differentials and on the Front Axle tab and then the Instructions tab Wheel Hubs and Bearings - Front Wheel Drive: This is a 4-page document and it is on the Driveline/4WD Front Hubs & Rotors page and then on the Instructions tab

You are now on the map - way up north. And a 1406 is just right for a 351. In fact, I recently called Edelbrock to ensure I'd told my brother the right thing when I said he should use my 1406 instead of the 750 he was planning for his 350. Yep, that's the right carb.

You are on the map!

I'm working on Dad's truck and was going to install the front swing arms. TTB's? (You can see the illustrations thereof on the new section I added today on the "Front Drive Axle" from the factory shop manual: Driveline/Axles & Differentials, and then the Front Axle tab and then the Instructions tab.) Anyway, I'm using Prothane bushings and just pulled out the instructions shown below, and they call for installing these bushing inside "the original outer metal shells". My issue is that I don't remember any metal around the rubber bushings that were in the TTB's. And I don't have them laying around. Were there any? The bushings measure 1.677" OD with the inner metal sleeve installed. And the TTB's measure 1.668" ID. So even w/o a metal shell there's already going to be a .009" compression of the bushing. I can call Prothane on Monday, but wanted to get a bit done over the weekend.

Great! And, when you get to it the instructions for the front axle are on page Driveline/Axles & Differentials and the Front Axles & Differentials tab followed by the Instructions tab.

Can you give me a pic of where it went? Or the other side that hasn't come out?

My problem is that I have the hubs apart and on the bench, so how they came apart is well in the past. But that is something I'm working on. In the interim, here's the lock ring I'm talking about. Do you have it out? And, by the way, to post pics click the Insert Image button above, then Choose File and then Insert Image. But if it comes back saying the pic is too big, and the limit is 1Mb, then just click Big Size and Insert Image.