Gary Lewis

Cory - I posted in the other thread. I don't know if you can create polls, but I think you can. And, I don't know if you can edit your first post to make it a poll, but it has to be the first post of a thread/topic. And I voted 18 - 20.

Let's see what fun we can have. What do you think this will go for? https://www.ebay.com/itm/372603438081

I'm talking about in your discussion here, too. If you get in the habit of always using the same term (usually the Ford designation) for something, it's easier for anyone to understand what you mean each time (indicator vs. exciter; relay vs. solenoid; etc.). If you switch between names, some people will think you mean different things. Ok folks, time for an update. I've worked on the Wiring It tab on the new/to-be page and think I'm done, but want your input. (Note: Let's concentrate on this one tab for the moment.) Steve - I believe I've addressed all of your concerns that are/were related to that tab. But please check it out. All - I've added pics of my alternator in order to reference the wiring thereof, the grounding, and the clocking. Hopefully that has helped. But, one thing I'm not really happy about are the pics of the fuses. Should I spend some time there getting better pics? The 3G conversion page is one of our most-frequently visited pages, so I'd like to get it "right". But, at some point it is a case of diminishing returns, so please let me know when I have "arrived".

LOL! No, I hadn't noticed that. But, now that I look again..... Maybe a short Chris?

Gary, I think your advice applies... but it depends on how far you want to go with it. If your goal is a fully restored or survivor-like vehicle then this is probably a money pit. If your goal is just a decent user, then this might be an opportunity. The body and interior can be the worst money gobblers, along with un-doing aftermarket “upgrades”. Ignoring the mechanical side, this one looks like clay bar + wax on the exterior, and a new carpet + interior cleaning would make it respectable. Like I have said, prices are on the rise, and stock Broncos that have not been beat on, mudded, wheeled, modified etc., are getting scarce. I think this one could be revived for similar or less money than other “user” specimens out there on the market and by reviving it yourself you would know what you had. In my case, I want a diesel conversion. It is going to be a project regardless. (You do see already converted ones but they have a steep novelty fee added into the asking price). The best value (for me) is going to be a good body but bad engine/not running scenario since that is going to be removed and discarded anyway. The main reason I am not on this like stink on skunk is the 4-door sitting next to our pump house. Having that running would be far more useful to the Donald household than a running Bronco, and definitely more useful than a non-running project Bronco for future leisure. I hate to pass on an opportunity that is becoming scarce, but I already lost focus once on the F150. It has been a life saver, and I don’t particularly regret it... but in hind sight the time and money spent on it probably could have put the crew cab back into service. Not finished, but useable. I don’t want to make that mistake twice. I really need that back seat and diesel fuel efficiency Jonathan - I awoke this morning thinking about this "opportunity". Boy, I'd really like to do it. But, my own advice and experience tells me this is not what I should do. With the Super Bee and '50 Chevy I have plenty of projects already. And I really need to focus on getting Dad's truck further along and Big Blue more usable. So, I'm going to pass. Reluctantly. A wise man once said "A good man always knows his limitations.” And I'm certainly starting to realize my limitations. Cory - I have a new trailer and a truck that has proven it'll tow quite well. But a 2000 mile round trip is gonna double the price of that Bronco. So now it isn't the screaming deal it appeared to be. And, as Jonathan suggested, it would be a huge distraction at a time when I don't need more distractions. But, like you, I'll keep looking.

Jonathan - I have suggested to others that you want to buy something that's already in the shape you want it to be in as it is far less expensive that way than to build one up. (Note that I did not use the term "cheaper" as it doesn't belong in that sentence.) So, I should take my own advice. Is that sound advice in this case?

It sounds great! And, it looks great! You are going to love it, and it will all have been worth it. As for helping, that's what we are all about.

Yippee! I will keep you in my prayers for a safe and successful trip. Let us know, soonest.

Grumpin - I think the term is "Prince Of Darkness". That's 'cause the electrics tended to go out at the worst possible time. Bill - Don't get me started. Especially since we have Brits, and Brit ex-pats, as members. But, having lived there, .....

So, if I pay the $1000 and "transportation fees"?

Haven't done a king pin, but the ball joints aren't too bad if you know how. #1 was a pain and #2 was easy to get them into the knuckle. But getting the knuckle on the axle was the other way 'round: #1 was easy and #2 a pain - but I think that was because I didn't follow the process. We will see on the 'morrow.

I do have the HF ball joint press! And, it worked a treat as I got the ball joints into the right steering knuckle easily. Then I installed the right knuckle on the axle, following the instructions in the shop manual: Next was the left knuckle. Using the above procedure I got the bottom nut tightened but the eccentric on the top ball joint didn't want to come down as it should. So, off came the knuckle and I found some powder in the bore. Cleaned that up, re-installed the knuckle, and then tightened the top nut. Sure enough, the bottom nut wouldn't tighten down. After trying several things, including smacking the bottom of the bottom ball joint with a dead-blow hammer, nothing worked. And by then it was quitting time. Tomorrow I'll start over and tighten the lower nut first. Then I'm taking the press kit back to O'Reilly's and also taking the brake rotors in to have them check them out and/or turn them. Meanwhile I'll install the front diff. Dad always said that two steps forward and one back is still progress. And Jim says progress is good. So, it was a good day.

The easiest way to ascertain those answers is to check out the Interchange pages, such as Interchange/Brake Interchange on the menu above. And there, for instance, you'll see that 1984 through '86 boosters interchange for all F250's over 8500 GVW. And since both yours should be over 8500 GVW you'll see that the boosters will interchange. Anyway, you can do that with several other things in the Interchange pages. But you can then go to the Cooling System/Radiator or Cooling System/Radiator Support pages, but I will save you time there - they don't interchange. However, the diesel radiator supports are in short supply, so.... Beyond that, it is easier to say what won't interchange. Here's my understanding: Transmissions: The bolt pattern is different Engine wiring: This is the harness that plugs into the main harness. But all of the harnesses are probably the same - although the fuel system wiring may be different. Hmmmm.... Emissions stuff Exhaust pipes

Yes, if that was local I'd have it. But, I do NOT need another project. However, for $1K I couldn't refuse.

Hey Gary, I think I should be OK with the protrusion measurement for now. It will effectively give the same as stock dimension. However, I still have to install the bed, with new mounting blocks, and I'm replacing the front fenders as well, so I'm going to have some body alignment work to do for sure. Currently, I just want to get the cab back to where it was. I think the cab needs to be shifted a little bit (I haven't measured it against the frame yet). The driver's front wheel was sticking out past the fender a little further than the RH side, and the rad support was pushed hard to the right, so that tells me the cab could be cocked to the right a little bit. I'll deal with that when I install the new front fenders. I'll loosen the cab mounts and shift it if need be. Dad's truck has the following bolt protrusion: LF = .912" RF = .840" LR = 1.135" RR = 1.050"

That's his English cousin that uses Whitworth wrenches. I think the guy that worked on Big Blue was Jacques Legg, and he's used to working on French vehicles.

Where? 7th Ave. How? I won't say either. You? I won't believe! No, not I. No way. Just the lyrics from a long-ago song - which you obviously remember as well.

I think all 5 of those guys were involved, sometimes at the same time. Man, what a messed-up effort. I can really understand why Vernon finally abandoned it. As for the pinion splines, apparently. They are one of the few things that don't leak.

Which is why Vernon put the "long pinion kit" on Big Blue. Or rather, had it put on. (Boy, that raises the hackles on the back of my neck. What if the same guy did that as put the valve covers on w/o gaskets? Or the guy that wired around the safeties and the resistance wire to the fuel pump? Or.....????)

Remember the line from "The Boxer" by Simon and Garfunkel: "I'm older than I was, but younger than I'll be. That's not unusual." :-) From memory: "In a clearing stands a boxer, and a fighter by his trade...." "Taps him 'til he cries out, in his anger and his pain..." And another one: "I do declare, I took some pleasures there", although I won't say where. Yep, I have it on my phone. And on a CD. And even an LP that I gave to my son. Remember it well. Boy, my knees are telling me about it today. I originally had the knuckle, press, etc on the bench, but needed to put my weight on it so put it on the floor. That worked, but I'm feeling it today. Hopefully this afternoon will be better.

I don't think so - I think it's a part-time t-case, and I assume 2-speed. No, that's not what I said. The drives are just built that way. But the diff between the front drivelines is in the t-case, so it still steers like normal. That's described (poorly) in the link that Gary quoted. Yeah, "poorly" is being kind. I think a lawyer wrote what he thought he understood an engineer to say. (I have to be careful as my son, who is a member on here, is a lawyer and I've been accused of being an engineer.) Anyway, my understanding of it is like Steve's - it is a differential within a transfer case, so apportions power to the front wheels exactly the same as an F-Series front diff does.

Jon, I'm using stock replacement rubber mounts. I did not measure the cab to frame distance, but I did measure how far the bolts protruded through the nut on the bottom plate. My plan is to tighten the bolts down to the exact same measurement, so the height should stay the same, and the mounts will be compressed the same as the originals were. My body man says the way to line up the cab with the bed is via those bolts. The bed attaches directly to the frame so unless you shim it is where it is. So install it first, and then bring the cab down to match it. Then bring the front clip into alignment with the cab. We don't have the trim on the truck yet, so it isn't in its "final" position, but pretty close as the body lines match. So I could measure the bolt protrusion as well as the height of the bushing/mount between cab and frame - if that would help.

I added the General Suspension Service section (14-21) to the Suspension & Steering/Front Suspension page. The reason was that I was searching for the instructions on installing the ball joints on a 4wd vehicle and thought they must be there. This is a strange thing, but the ball joint write-up for the 2wd vehicles is in the Twin I-Beam instructions, but not so for the 4wd. Instead, there's a statement in the 4wd section that says: Fortunately that section was already on the site: Driveline/Axles & Differentials, so I added a link and an explanation, as shown below. Does that make sense? Better ideas

I don't use paint or powder on the chassis or any of its fasteners for that reason. I clean them up, install them (often with threadlocker), and then apply rubberized undercoating when it's all put together. It protects from gravel & water without chipping or peeling (when applied to clean metal), and it's cheap & easy to touch up when I go rock-crawling. It protects the threads from rust without binding them during disassembly like paint & powder can. But it comes off with common automotive solvents. For removal, I've learned that a simple hammer is quick & effective; with a pipe scrap drift for the upper. For installation, I got sick of cheap presses, bit the bullet, and got a Snap-On with a few cups. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1040080/thumbnail/bjupper.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/1040079/thumbnail/bjlower.jpg If I didn't already have most of what's in it, I'd jump on this right now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192822910480 It's close enough to half price: https://store.snapon.com/Ball-Joint-Presses-Set-Master-Ball-Joint-Universal-Joint-Press-22-pc-P644058.aspx Grumpin - No prob. Was just wanting to make sure I understood. Steve - Yesterday I might have given that much money to have that Snap-On press. But, I got to thinking last night that I might actually have a ball joint press. So a search on here found a thread where I said Brandon/Bruno2 was coming by to return my ball joint press. I guess I'll find out this afternoon. I think it is the HF unit, but if the frame of the press is longer that will make all the difference as that was the problem with the rented one. It was just too short to work with the adapters sent. All - I forgot to tell you that I added the General Suspension Service section (14-21) to the Suspension & Steering/Front Suspension page. The reason was that I was searching for the instructions on installing the ball joints on a 4wd vehicle and thought they must be there. This is a strange thing, but the ball joint write-up for the 2wd vehicles is in the Twin I-Beam instructions, but not so for the 4wd. Instead, there's a statement in the 4wd section that says: Fortunately that section was already on the site: Driveline/Axles & Differentials, so I added a link and an explanation, as shown below. Does that make sense? Better ideas

It certainly IS interesting AND creative! But it is wildly unnecessary...at least in the sense of the advertised (or perceived) benefits of the V-Drive system. I see the 4x4 Ford vans for sale in Canada on a fairly regular basis, but never one of these animals. The E150 and E250 4x4 vans were popular here up north/west for hauling workers around from tree planting to oil fields, to mining. Thanks for sharing Jonathan. That thing is as cool as the other side of the pillow. Yes, I've see 4x4 Ford vans for decades, so that complexity isn't necessary. And the un-sprung weight would go through the roof. As for saving, I wonder how hard the parts would be to find?