Gary Lewis

I added the factory shop manual's instructions to the Interior/Steering Column page on the Instructions tab.

I've not seen anything in any of the documentation that shows when the change was made. And the date changes aren't accurate as it appears to me that each plant changed when they ran out of a given part since Ford threw nothing away. Something I've seen lately for changes is "chassis #". When I ordered the front wheel bearings from Amazon recently they said they were the right ones "from chassis # XYZ". But, I couldn't correlate their # to anything on Dad's truck.

No, I was talking about my "how to" in this caption: https://supermotors.net/getfile/72346/thumbnail/columntilt-exploded.jpg It's been decades since I messed with one of those old columns. I still have the last one I drove in the '82 body on the '83 frame, but I can't remember if it's the one I rebuilt, or another replacement. It's easily the best writeup I've seen on the subject. I didn't realize the old SFO pages still existed, and I don't remember seeing that one before. But the pics are clickable to make them bigger, and I actually like the succinct instructions. I wouldn't change much, other than to omit the "...I thought...but it didn't work, so I had to..." steps. You should use it as a guide to rebuild yours, and take about 10x as many pics so you can choose the best ones to tell it your way. But I think you'll find it ends up VERY close to that. You could add a list of tools, parts ($, suppliers, PNs), chemicals (lube & threadlocker...), and torque specs, but that old writeup seems pretty close to my foggy memory. Steve - I've added links to your page as well as the SFO page so, for now, I think it is covered. But see what you think: Interior/Steering Columns.

Shaun - The 335 Series engines aren't cheap to build. But Tim Meyer has the parts, so it can be done. However, the easy and less expensive way out is with the Windsor, so it is a good choice. And 35's will help with the overall gear ratio. So if you aren't cruising very much a 1:1 top gear will work fine - especially if you stay with the Wheezer's 3 1/2" stroke.

Steve - I just realized that the FSB page has a link to a page with pics and instructions: http://chrisb.users.superford.org/Bronco/Projects/Steering_Column/Steering_Column.html. See what you think, but that is a painful page. So much whitespace and such little pics and so few words.

It would be nice to stay out of AZ but if they are the only one close then ...... After seeing what Gary posted and looking at the AZ site it is real easy to get the wrong one when all the trucks have a temp gauge bit the part is listed for lights????? If I was going the try and re-pin the plug I would look into replacing the whole wiring harness but that's me, I have been known to do some crazy things Dave ---- Like changing the firewall?

You can find the chassis dimensions in the 1985 Body Builder's book: Literature/1985 Literature/Body Builder's. Perhaps with that you can figure out what you have.

Shaun - You are going with an upside-down M? A Wheezer? Yeah, that makes sense, or cents, as there's lots more aftermarket support for the little W's than the M's. And yours was set up for that with the engine stands. As for the tranny, with 4:10's I think you'll really be disappointed in anything w/o an OD. Granted Big Blue has a 460, but it also has 3.55's, so torque is probably roughly the same. And 65 MPH on the highway is 2500 RPM. Way too high. But a ZF is expensive as they frequently need to be rebuilt, and that's costly. Still, they are really nice to have. Anyway, I'm following.

No, and that one wasn't that great, either. I tried to get him to take more pics, and I suggested some specific shots to get, but he either didn't care or read my suggestions too late. So I don't consider those pics a great loss. My "how to" is in the caption of that diagram... Do any of your shop manuals have the procedure? My '81 manual barely mentions the actuators in the full column disassembly procedure (13-06-17), and it focuses on E-series' column which is apparently substantially different. I was really hoping to use the FSB one. However, that's basically the same as yours but spread out over several pages with places for the pics. Right? So, how 'bout we collaborate and use your instructions and my pics? And you can tell me what other/different pics to get? As for the manuals, I'll check tomorrow. But all I have are the '80, '81, and '85 FSM's. So I'll probably have exactly what you have.

Have a set of the BBK shorty's on the 302 in the other truck. They make it easy to run the exhaust in the stock routing (even true duals, like mine). Yep, that's why I'm interested.

So, he doesn't know what he has. And we are supposed to believe it runs? And only needs TLC?

I like those. In fact, I am thinking about a set like them for Dad's truck as well as Big Blue.

I'll look for that harness - I think I still have it somewhere. I assume it came from a '99~03 Expedition, but I wasn't paying attention when I snagged it. Thanks. A pic would be helpful, but the source would help as well since we could point people at those vehicles.

It is apparently already broken. Now that I know I can maybe get it to crank when I tilt the wheel, I feel better about it. But I'll still carry my little red jumper. On the other hand, I probably won't loan it to anyone else for fear they won't know what to do. So, how hard is it to fix? I have a link on the steering column page here (Interior/Steering Columns) to a how-to on FSB. However, it appears that all of the pictures are now gone. This is exactly why I want the how-to's here where I can ensure the pics won't disappear. So, I'll probably do a how-to here when I replace that piece - assuming that I do. Anyway, do you know where a good how-to is?

As I'm sure you know, lot's of the tach-less gauge clusters had the tach-capable printed circuit. In fact, for the longest time I didn't understand what people were talking about when they were saying their circuit didn't have the traces for a tach. All of the clusters I'd found did have the traces, even if they didn't have a tach. But, then I ran into some w/o the traces and finally understood. However, I don't know what the rhyme nor reason was for some having it and others not.

Sounds like the plan is coming together. But, I realized today that the suspension isn't done. I don't yet have the sway bar on. In fact, it hasn't been powder coated, nor has some of its mounting hardware. So, tomorrow I'll be rounding up all the parts and getting ready to blast and PC then next batch. And I'll include the MM dial.

I think you'll like the new 2-poster for that kind of work. I've done several with mine.

Well... https://supermotors.net/getfile/1145846/thumbnail/img_20190219_141750.jpg It followed me home. Can I keep it? I hope you can! I think you'll love it. Mine is going to be used for exactly what you mentioned - lifting bodies off of frames. Once the driveline is in Dad's truck I'm going to chock the wheels to ensure no movement, lift the cab off, install the engine & tranny, and then lower the cab back in place. What is the "refrigeration machine"?

You are now on the map. And I look forward to the build thread.

Gary, I think the look Would be nice, but wouldn’t it be more difficult to have two different PC colors meeting at the edge of the recess? If the raised portion of the brass were to remain brass, you could sand through any irregularities and leave a crisp edge with the recessed color. Maybe I am not understanding the process of applying the color, but it seems to me like that would be really difficult. One approach if you wanted to black out the letters would be a metal oxidizer that as one uses in jewelry making. You paint it into a textured surface (turns it flat black) then you polish the high points. Since the hub is brass, the jewelry oxidizer should work, and remain durable. I’ve done this with silver and it does not wear off even on rings etc., just thought I’d mention it since it is outside the box if you are thinking in terms of automotive finishes. https://www.riogrande.com/product/MidasBlackMaxOxidizerSolution4oz/331053?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4-j3r9jI4AIVAx6tBh0ZOQJZEAQYCSABEgK19PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Jonathan - You raise good questions. Here are two approaches that might work and then Plan B: Powder: Coat the whole of the brass part with black, and then mask the raised portion by taping it and then using a scalpel to remove the tape at the edges of the recesses and apply the red powder in the recesses. If the tape can be cut cleanly then there should be a crisp edge to the red/black break. Paint: If the above doesn't work, then resort to red paint and a brush Black Medallions: Use black medallions in the rear and use either the Warns, which are already black, or the MM's and have black and brass. Perhaps clear coat the brass.

It looks like it says E0TE-9C675-AB

Not a bad price. Just need to make sure your cluster has the right circuit film in order to make it work,

Whether powdered, painted, or not; ALL the mounting surfaces need to be cleaned down to shiny metal. That includes the internal surfaces where the rectifier body/heat sink touches the case. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1055207/thumbnail/06bracket02.jpg And Ford recommends applying electrical grease (NOT dielectric, thermal, conductive, chassis...) to almost all terminals; especially the heavy alternator output (which is what that grease was created for). I also put it on the freshly-polished ground points to keep them shiny longer. https://supermotors.net/getfile/723349/thumbnail/alternator-130a.jpg That's vague, and dangerous. If someone just adds a tiny wire, it could cause a fire under some circumstances. I'd specify that it be at least the size of the alternator output wire (~8ga), and at most the size of the block ground cable (~4ga). If that circuit protection opens, the alt output goes to 0A by definition. Its internal voltage (at the rectifier) could go as high as the VR is designed to go, but that won't hurt anything since the alt won't be connected to anything at that moment. I'd reduce it to 1 pic of each type, showing the protection (& holder for fuses) on the wiring. You have 1 pic labelled "AMG type", and several more without labels - I'd find a standard & stick to it. Right now, it almost seems like the C.B.s are just variations of the AMG because they seem to be in that series of pics. But I'd certainly include pics of the factory protection; both the early fusible link, and the later AMG/MEGA fuse. Preferably showing them on the factory alternator harnesses, since that's the quickest, cheapest, easiest, safest way to wire one up. And it automatically causes a bullnose owner to abandon the original Bk/Or wire because the 3G specifically connects at the starter relay. https://supermotors.net/getfile/876977/thumbnail/3gharness.jpg It solves so many potential problems at once, for the least money & effort. Steve - I think I've incorporated your suggestions, with the exception of the one on fuses. I don't disagree, but haven't yet found the pics I want to use. One issue there is that I don't have a good picture of a Ford mega-fuse as part of a 3G harness. Yes, there's yours, but it is really hard to see the fuse itself in that pic. (I know it is there, but....) And, none of the vehicles I've gotten 3G's from used that style of harness. Instead, they've had the charge cable running to the fuse that is part of the power distribution box. But incorporating a PDB into a Bullnose truck is a bit more complex than installing a 3G. Do you have a better pic of that fuse? Do you know what that harness came from?

Thanks, Jim! It feels good to finally have things coming along. To be honest, the front suspension and driveline haven't been something I was looking forward to doing. So many little details. But, now that the suspension itself is done and the driveline is starting to take shape it is feeling better. My goal is to get it sitting on all four tires and then put the engine and transmission in. At that point it can be rolled around, or up on the trailer, and I think I'll turn to Big Blue's upgrades. After all, Dad's truck isn't going to be a driver and Big Blue is. So, I need to spend some time on BB to get him where I want him to be for driving. And then I'll come back to Dad's truck.

And, in the midst of the this discussion regarding the manual locks, here are the rotors. Think I'll blast them, which I should have done before having them turned, and then paint them. Paint not powder as I don't want to have to mask them with the high-temp tape that would be needed for the oven. On the other hand, I have some of Eastwood's High Temp black powder, and could use that, which would probably stand up to the environment better. And I could mask with aluminum foil to minimize the use of tape. Hmmmm....