Gary Lewis

Judging from your first mockup, quite good. You are speaking of PC'ing just the lock, Or the whole hub? Because I think I like the stainless surrounding it. Good question. I meant that I'd leave the outer ring bright stainless, and make the brass black except the recesses would be red, as shown in the mockup. That sorta approximates the rings and center bar of the rear medallion. And it would be easier to do than making the rotating piece brass/black/red.

Yes, I need to add some grab handles to Big Blue. And, I might change the steering column out to a non-tilt when I do the EFI'ing and install the ZF5. That way if people do hoist themselves in using it that shouldn't cause a problem.

Jim - I measured and the OD of the cap is the same. The Big Blue's hubs are larger in OD, but apparently not in ID. And the gaskets that Vernon had fit the D40 on Dad's truck perfectly, so I think they would interchange. Jonathan - I think I'm with you, the MM's get the nod. And I agree that preserving the antique brass look is going to be hard. But they would eventually turn to that if I didn't put a clear-coat over them. All - How would they look PC'd black with the recesses red?

Jim - Just looking at the pic of the two, I’d say the Warns are bigger than the MM’s. Thanks for pointing that out.

Steve - I assume that by “re-pin” you mean pull the wires out of the 14-pin idiot gauge connector and put them in an 18-pin gauge connector, and then add the needed other wires. Right?

Bill - Except for early 81’s, which had slightly different wiring, the instrument clusters interchange for all Bullnose years - like for like. But, that means that idiot light clusters interchange with each other, and gauge clusters interchange with each other. Within the instrument clusters there were two kinds - with tach and w/o tach. Those with a tach also had a resettable trip odometer, and those w/o a tach didn’t. To make things slightly more complicated, there are two different printed circuit films used on the gauge clusters. One film has the wiring for the tach, and one doesn’t. And while all clusters with a tach had a circuit film that supports a tach, many of the non-tach clusters do as well. So you can mix and match, meaning have a tach with or without a trip odometer, or a trip odometer with or without a tach. 😳

Whether powdered, painted, or not; ALL the mounting surfaces need to be cleaned down to shiny metal. That includes the internal surfaces where the rectifier body/heat sink touches the case. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1055207/thumbnail/06bracket02.jpg And Ford recommends applying electrical grease (NOT dielectric, thermal, conductive, chassis...) to almost all terminals; especially the heavy alternator output (which is what that grease was created for). I also put it on the freshly-polished ground points to keep them shiny longer. https://supermotors.net/getfile/723349/thumbnail/alternator-130a.jpg That's vague, and dangerous. If someone just adds a tiny wire, it could cause a fire under some circumstances. I'd specify that it be at least the size of the alternator output wire (~8ga), and at most the size of the block ground cable (~4ga). If that circuit protection opens, the alt output goes to 0A by definition. Its internal voltage (at the rectifier) could go as high as the VR is designed to go, but that won't hurt anything since the alt won't be connected to anything at that moment. I'd reduce it to 1 pic of each type, showing the protection (& holder for fuses) on the wiring. You have 1 pic labelled "AMG type", and several more without labels - I'd find a standard & stick to it. Right now, it almost seems like the C.B.s are just variations of the AMG because they seem to be in that series of pics. But I'd certainly include pics of the factory protection; both the early fusible link, and the later AMG/MEGA fuse. Preferably showing them on the factory alternator harnesses, since that's the quickest, cheapest, easiest, safest way to wire one up. And it automatically causes a bullnose owner to abandon the original Bk/Or wire because the 3G specifically connects at the starter relay. https://supermotors.net/getfile/876977/thumbnail/3gharness.jpg It solves so many potential problems at once, for the least money & effort. Steve - Thanks for the input. I’m out at the moment and reading on my phone, but will re-read it again on my ‘puter when I get home and see what I can do. But I fully agree with your comments on the ground path. And people need to understand that a ground wire needs to be the same size as the charge cable. Good points. And your thinking about the fuse/breaker Pics is similar to mine. I’ll see what I can do. Thanks again.

Ok guys, I'm headed out to a dental appointment, but will re-read your posts more closely when I get home - hopefully before the snow and/or ice hits. Anyway, for your consideration, we do have an option. Both Dad's truck and Big Blue had D44's, so the hubs should swap - right?. So, Mile Markers or Warns? And then, what polishing/powder treatment? Lots of options, including polished brass with red in the recess and/or lettering. Red in the recess and black lettering. All with a clear coat of powder. Black over the brass with red in the recesses.

Thanks. These are Mile Marker aftermarkets. Chrome or stainless outer, and a brass inner. So PC'ing the inner red would make them look close to original, and with the red center on the rear aluminum wheels it'll come close to matching. Here's kinda what I'm thinking: But, the original ones were all red - right? Would it be better to make the whole center red? It would be easier to PC it that way.

I don't remember if he posted the part number for it but all 3 times? I guess it could happen I will pass on the information and hope it is that easy. I did a little more look in the wiring area and for the 85 trucks, close enough for an 84 truck, it does show a 14 wire plug for warning light cluster and 18 wire plug for the gauge cluster so no way plug n play. Thanks for your help. Dave ---- EDIT: I just was going back over your post and getting confused, it don't take much but wouldn't the variable-resistance one be for the gauge and the on/off switch for the light? Then again we said the warning light cluster had a temp gauge so would it not work like the temp gauge in a gauge cluster? Why 2 different senders? Even Auto Zone lists 2 different senders, gauges or with light? This is crazy and no wonder why the gauge does not work right. Maybe all three times if he told the same kid the same story. Dunno. But just check with a DVM as a switch will show infinite resistance and a sender will show around 72 ohms. And, the '81 through '85 wiring will be the same in that area. But, in '86 they eliminated the idiot lights.

Dave - I'll bet he's getting the wrong "sender". There was the variable-resistance unit, which should show probably about 72 ohms when tested with a DVM, and there was also a temperature switch. If he's getting the switch then it would peg the gauge as the temp comes up. As you can see here (Electrical/Senders and the Coolant Temp tab), the one he wants has a green insulator. Check it with a DVM to see if it has ~72 ohms cold. If so it is the right one. But if it shows a complete open when cold it is probably the switch.

Thanks, guys. It feels good to be getting things done. And, at this point the suspension is DONE! Now we are into the front driveline, with the D44 being the first piece. But no one mentioned my plan to PC the hub center red. Was that because you missed it? Or don't like it and didn't want to hurt my feelings?

Lima Delta - That sounds COLD! It is only in the 20's here and I don't like working outside. Brrrrr! But it sounds like it was a success. Grumpin - From what I've read, the best practice is not to hoist yourself into the truck with the steering wheel. Which is a problem with a tall truck, like Big Blue, as it is so tempting to do. Steve - If it can be intermittent then that must be the problem. I'd assumed that it was all or nothing. Good to know, thanks. And the fact that it cranked when I tilted the wheel pretty well confirms it.

I have heard "speedometer head" before, and I think it stems from way back when the gauges were separate so it made sense to call it that. But it doesn't make sense any more. However, you now know another term for your searches. As for the link, it did work. And they do have a lot of neat trucks, or parts thereof. Good finds.

Dave, This topic came up on one of the Favebook Bullnose forums not all that long ago. A guy had purchased a replacement cluster with all 4 gauges and a tach to replace the standard warning light instrument cluster, and found out that the plugs were significantly different. I'm not sure what wiring changes are required, but they are are indeed required. I took a quick look on Ebay and found a couple clusters with gauges that contradict what Gary says above. I can't say for sure that these are even out of Bullnose trucks, because Ebay often has medium duty truck clusters listed as Bullnose clusters... They have fuel and coolant temp gauges, and warning lights for Oil pressure and Charge. So yes, they do have a temp gauge. The two clusters would require different oil pressure senders (switches). Well, one is a "sender" I guess, and the other is just a switch, or at least that's how my local auto parts store identifies them. I assume the coolant temp sender is the same, and what wiring changes are required for the CHARGE light/gauge swap, I have no idea. Pictures below, is this what you're curious about? The location of the gauges? Cory - You know, in the light of day, you are right and I was wrong. Looking at the 1981 EVTM the idiot light clusters did have fuel and temp gauges.

I know. I was talking about why I don't pull the body first. I used my air hammer yesterday to align the door on my '95 F150. I used it last month to shred my '94 CV. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1144118/thumbnail/split.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/1145099/thumbnail/20190127_143110.jpg It's a fun tool! That's a lot of slitting. Wow!

Responses in bold

If I do another anything, I'll do it your way. This way takes WAAAAAAAAY too LOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG!

Yes, it certainly is! Thanks!

Yep, needs work. And expensive work at that. At least the Bronco for $1000 might be able to be started. I wonder if it really is a 351C. They weren't put in these trucks, but the 351M obviously was and some people don't know the difference, which is mainly a taller block on the M. But, there's another significant difference - the C has a small-block bell housing bolt pattern and the M has the big-block pattern. So if you buy that truck and expect to be able to use the tranny out of it on your 300 or Windsor, check first.

Today was a good day. Several steps forward and none back. First, I broke the driver's side ball joints loose and went through the tightening procedure from the shop manual. And it worked. Next, I slipped the powder-coated brake shields on the knuckles and secured them with a nut each. I also looked up the nuts to secure the spindles to the knuckles and cleaned them in prep for media blasting and then powder coating. (And I also found two windshield trim pieces off of Huck and put them aside for media blasting and powder coating. ) Then it was time to take the ball joint tool back to O'Reilly's. But before I went I pressed the studs out of the hub/rotor combo's and took the rotors with me to have them turned. They'll be ready tomorrow so I'll pick them up then - before the ice and/or snow hits. And, while I was at O'Reilly's I picked up some Ultra Black so I could install the D44 in front. (More of which in a mo.) But, as I attempted to leave in Big Blue the starter relay didn't pull in. Read how I fixed it in WHYDTYTT. Ok, so back home and I cleaned the gasket surface on the D44, applied the Ultra Black to the diff, added two locating studs, slipped the gasket on and pressed it into the goo, and then applied more goo to the face of the gasket. And then the fun began. I carried it to the truck, intending to lift it to eye-level and slip it into the back of the left axle. But, somewhere along the way I got old, and that chunk wasn't coming up to eye level. Ultimately I rolled a chair under the truck, dropped the truck as low as I could get it and still sit under it, and then was able to pick the chunk up and get it in there. The bolts are now snugged up and tomorrow I'll torque them down. And, I also hope to media blast the hubs, spindle nuts, and the center of the locking hubs and powder coat them. The hub and nuts will be black, but I'm planning on coating the center of the Mile Marker locking hubs in red so they look like the original Warn red plastic units. Oh yes, I also ordered new Timken bearings and seals for the front. I got to looking at the bearings that were in there and while they looked good, they were not the originals. In fact, there were at least three brands of parts in four bearings, and several of them said "China". So I decided it was time for new ones. As said, it was a good day.

Drove Big Blue to O'Reilly's again today, just as I did two days ago, and again he didn't want to crank. On Saturday I used my ever-present red jumper wire to pull the starter relay in. But today I wondered if I could find the reason for the problem. And, I think I have. I held the key in the Start position and tilted the steering wheel. Sure enough, it cranked and started. So, do you reckon the "Actuator (steering column lock lever)" is bad/broken? Do they work sometimes and don't work other times, or just don't work at all?

Shaun - So glad you joined!!! I like the truck, but I really liked the other one. We have a member's map: Bullnose Forum/Member's Map. May I add you? Ocala still? For those that don't recognize Shaun's previous truck, he is Fordzilla on FTE. A wonderful guy and a great addition to our family. WELCOME!!!

Yes, it certainly is. I've added it to my "research list", so plan to come back and update this thread when the auction is over. But if I forget, please nudge me. Gently.

Gary, It looks like I can, yes, but this one is OK. You can delete my original thread and just leave this one. I didn't have anything profound to add to the thread anyway, other than sharing an Ebay link. Ok Cory, I deleted it. But was just trying to see what the poll would look like. Sorry to mess you up.