Gary Lewis

No, not me. I'm working on installing a tire or four.

Already? That was quick.

E3TZ 18591-A 83/87 E100/350 — heater 83/86 F150/350 - - heater 83/86 U150 — heater or aux. heater

Good on ya! James 1:27 (Even if she's not a widow!) Thanks. Unfortunately we didn't get to go as she was sleeping. Hasn't eaten in a few days, but was lucid day before yesterday. May get to see her tomorrow. But, the lady we visited in the hospital on Monday got to go home Tuesday, so that's good news. As for today, it'll be short as we are to meet my brother and his wife at 5:00 to have dinner and hand off the American Racing wheels for his '55 Chevy. But, I hope to make PROGRESS in the interim.

Steve - I'm apparently not seeing what you are seeing. I've even searched for "samefrom" and "isrotate" and can't find them. Can you take a screen shot and show me what I'm missing? Please?

Jarek - You are now on the map.

No don't have the money for that and they are not that nice. They have some little nicks & scrapes. The rear had dimples where the bolts were even after I thought I get them flat. The front bumper has a little twist but was the easier of the 2 I could straighten. Now you are twisting my arm on the chroming. I am thinking on getting them wrapped in chrome. Someone said I can get the chrome and do it my self but just a quick look on Ebay the wrap is like $60. I will see what someone wants to wrap and if say it is $150 I think it pays to have them do it. We will see. Dave ---- Hadn't heard of wrapping them in chrome. I'm curious to see how that works.

I would use a fuel line rather than vacuum hose as I would expect the vapor to cause the vacuum hose to fail over time.

Yes, please!

Yes, that is a very nice pan. And, it has what I think is a requirement - a drain plug. I've said I'll not replace a pan w/o placing a drain plug in it. Tips for pulling the existing pan? Get a big catch pan, lots of paper towels, and cleaner with which to clean up the mess. YUK! I haven't done it w/o making a huge mess. The manual says to loosen all the bolts and pry down one corner to drain the pan, but I've not had good luck doing that. The fluid drains from a wide area and creates quite a mess. Trans oil - the specs call for Dexron II. But I'd go with synthetic.

I did not patch or re-chrome where the welding was done. I was going to cut the heads off the bumper bolts but my brother, who does body work for a living, said to put the bolts on the back side and weld them from the front thru the square holes. Only thing I was not sure on is if I could mount the front bumper with the bolts welded because 2 bolts go from the front and the other 2 come in at an angle. So first I tack welded the bolts on the front bumper to make sure I could mount it and it worked out good. So once I knew the bumpers could be bolted in I did weld the bolts on the face side building up the weld. I then used my 4" grinder and a stone wheel to take down most of the welds. I then used a 36 grit flap wheel to take the welds down a little more then a 40 grit flap wheel. On the rear bumper I also sanded it with a DA & 180 grit paper. In person you can see where the welding was done but what I have in mind for the final look you will not be able to tell. Dave ---- edit: I for got yes they are mounted with the welded in bumper bolts. Interesting approach, Dave. Are you going to have the bumpers re-chromed?

Vinny - I've compared the Ranger Station acronyms against the ones we had and the Ranger Station list was about 3 times as long. But, our list had some things it didn't. So, I've merged the lists and will be figuring out how to post that list. Thanks!

Dan - I'm not sure why you asked Ray, but we do have some ZF5 documentation: Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/ZF5. If not, what are you looking for? EDIT: Opps. I know why you asked Ray. Duh!

Jarek - Welcome! Sure glad you joined. I guess you saw that I was trying to tell you this via Facebook, but then Facebook crashed: But, if you have a 60 amp alternator then maybe I have the wrong one. Are there part numbers of any kind on the alternator, regulator, or the diode bridge? Also, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I'd be happy to add you if you'd like.

Kind of 'spensive with dings. But, they aren't too bad. And, it is the correct one.

Gsmblue - After you used the kit did you adjust the door? Steve - I've sorta added your page here: Exterior/Doors and on the Alignment tab. But, until you approve I've hidden it in the menu. Also, it isn't a perfect replica as you have things in some of the captions I can't replicate. And, I'm sure there are errors. But see if that is a reasonable start. Oh yes, I couldn't find that Rockon gif, so found something else as a placeholder.

I've now updated that tab with your comments, Steve - I hope. And, I've now replaced the original page with this new one. Please take a look, but we can still upgrade.

Steve - We have a section here (Interior/Doors) where I could add a page on hinge replacement. But that seems counter-intuitive since I would have guessed that hinge pins are exterior, and your write-up gets into fender alignment. So, perhaps the better thing to do would be to put up a new page for Doors in the Exterior section. And on that page we could have various tabs, including one for alignment, which would be your write-up and pics. But another might be a tab for hinge repair? Perhaps Gsmblue could take pics and give us the words (in the Queen's English? ) from when he does it? Anyway, Steve, give me the word and I'll create a draft page.

Did you just replace the pins? Usually you need to use something like this kit that comes with bushings as well as new pins.

Yipes! In OK you can declare a vehicle "off the road", which is called "black tagged" and says it isn't being driven. The Super Bee is that way. And during that time there's no taxes beyond the tag. I guess the key is knowing the vehicle laws in the state/province in which you live and/or are buying the vehicle. But, not knowing what they are in Oregon the lack of registration is a huge red flag for me.

I agree - price is too high. It appears to be in nice shape, but not running and, especially, not having a registration is a big issue in my experience. You never know what you are going to run into with the registration. As an example, my wife's cousin gave me a '50 Chevy pickup. But, it had no title as it had burned up in a house fire. Fortunately the state couldn't find any info on the truck so we got to re-title it. But, had they found it I'd have had to pay all of the back taxes, and it appeared to not have been registered since in the 60's.

Steve - I'd be happy to put that list on the website, somewhere. I could put it where the other one is, above, but this one is more generic. So, should we merge the two and keep it at the above location, or come up with a new location? And, if the latter, where should that be?

I should add this number to my parts catalog since we know there were E0's.

Again, I love the colors! It looks so sharp. So crisp, and so period-correct.

When I raise the cab on Dad's truck I hope to take pics of exactly where that partial VIN is on the frame rail. As for a partial on the engines, and especially the diesels, I've not ever seen a Ford engine stamped. Obviously some are, but not the ones I've worked on.