Gary Lewis

I agree. That’s why I mentioned the junk and filter. But on new tanks, valves, etc it would seem that it came in with the fuel? Like gum? I’ve seen that happen, for sure.

Nice truck, but $54,500? Still, if you are into those trucks maybe? Oddly enough I can't see the transfer case in the pictures. I'm sure I'm missing it, but they were supposed to have a divorced t-case that should be easy to see.

It is allowed, but those pieces have to be hard to find. Good luck.

Ahhh! That makes sense. And will look good. And "storage net" both translates well and should work wonderfully!

I don't like cutting the steel line, either. So I'd consider using a rubber hose from the pump to the carb and put both the regulator as well as a paper filter in there. But you may have a problem finding a fitting that works in the pump. That's a flared fitting in the pump and finding a flare to hose-barb fitting isn't easy. If you can't find that you could use a flared fitting and a short piece of flared line. If you are doing the flaring put a little bit of flare on the end going to the carb so the line can't slide off.

We are still tied in voting, but I put it back to the bull for the moment. It'll take a few days to make its way through to show up, but I think it is the one we want.

From my experience two things can cause a carb to flood - too much fuel pressure and junk in the tank. And "junk" includes gum or goo as well as rust or grit. As for fuel pressure, I've run 460's with 5 psi, so a 300 six with a 1 bbl doesn't need more than that. But I can't tell you the max that your Carter can take, although maybe Bill can. So if you think your tank is clean or have a good paper filter ahead of the carb, then I'd install a fuel pressure regulator. I've used this Holley unit on several vehicles with good success, but I've paired it with a gauge, like this one from AED.

None of the instructions we have for rebuilding the YF/YFA show the spacer. Nor do any of our emissions info that I can find. And many of our posts about them have links to eBay, but those adverts have expired so there are no pictures there either. But this thread on Non-EGR spacer for 300/4.9L [D7TZ-9A589-H] - NOS has the following two pics. But be aware that this spacer is one of the non-EGR units so it actually blocks the passage in the intake and exhaust manifolds. So your spacer will have some passages in it that this one doesn't, and you should use gaskets, one above and one below, that match the passages in your spacer.

Yes, it has shown up on my tablet as well. So now I have the two side by side and it is far easier to pick out the brown bull's nose that it is the barely-recognizable front end outline.

Yes, the spacer for trucks destined for the US was also the way that exhaust gas got into the intake. But the spacer for Canadian trucks blocked the EGR passage. And there was a gasket above and below that plate. Let me see if I can find illustrations or pictures...

I've got it. Be safe.

Yes, Gary has been busy. But I'm home now and can look up part numbers. So, is the question what the whole part number is for the spacer for this truck? Like the spacer is missing? Or, what am I missing? If I remember correctly, there's a spacer that was used in Canada w/o EGR, and the spacer used in the US with EGR. Am I looking for one of those?

Yes, VERY nice! But please explain what you mean by "laser-cut and print two covers in wood optic"? I understand laser cutting, but what is "wood optic"? Does that mean "wood look"? And where do the covers go?

Welcome, Don! Glad you joined. Wow, that is quite the CV! You've worked on and own a wide variety of vehicles. But no Bullnose truck? Yet? We have a map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu, and could add you if you'd like. And if you tell us roughly where, although we don't want the exact location. And I guess you don't live at Wollum, AR? I only know of the place, which can't be called a town, 'cause it is on the route in the Ozarks I've considered taking with Big Blue. Apparently it is a slight bulge, but not a wide spot, in the road.

Bummer! Good luck, Jim! Be safe.

Cool! But I’d contact Shaun/salans7. He’s in Ocala.

I've had two boat trailers with surge brakes and both were a pain. Backing up was difficult and required locking the brakes out if there was any uphill to it or soft ground. I converted the last one, the one for the 25' Sea Ray, to electric and they served me very well for many years and several thousand miles. And I agree with Bob about the ability to hit the trailer brakes by themselves. My 2015 F150 has the ability via the stability control system to bring the trailer brakes on to stop any fishtailing, and it did it once on our trip to Lake Powell with that Sea Ray. An 18-wheeler went by us at a high rate of speed and that caused the trailer to get moved to the right and then to the left as he passed. I felt the trailer brakes come on very briefly and everything straightened out immediately. We weren't in any danger, but it was comforting to know that if we had been the system would have stopped the swaying. I don't think that ability is available with straight surge brakes.

It is fun to have others interested - even though you aren't about to sell.

Glad you are learning about the controller. Hopefully it'll work well enough you won't have to change it. And no, my intent was not to remind you. Simply that Copilot kept telling me about this amazing Bob guy that knows all about rear diffs and I thought of you.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Now, back to the VIN…

Yes, congrat's! Sounds like a great trailer. On the brake controller, I like my Tekonsha 90195 P3 Electronic Brake Control. Works great and lets me adjust the brakes for any load on the trailer or no load at all. By the way, have you been reading the thread on Copilot? If not you might start about here. Copilot seems to be obsessed with you.

Bummer! I missed that this was your first post. Welcome to the forum, but... you missed the email that said to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then post an introduction there before posting anywhere else. We do that because we have our guidelines there and want you to have had every opportunity to read them as we will hold you to them. So before discussing the VIN more please go read the guidelines and post an intro in that folder.

That really doesn't look right. But you are correct, all the VIN plates I've seen have been riveted on, and with something like a hex-headed rivet.

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum. Glad you joined. However, you missed the bit in Jim's email to you that asked you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then post an introduction there before posting anywhere else. We do that because the guidelines are posted there and we hold everyone to them. So after you read the guidelines and post an intro please come back here where we can discuss the control issue.

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