Gary Lewis

No! Not

Yes, I think I'd apply power directly to the motor and see how it works with full power. But I'd not expect it to work "as new" since it isn't. However you can usually help a motor by cleaning the commutator strips, checking the brushes, lubing the bearings, and checking for dragging. On the HVAC control, are you sure the problem is the control? Have you confirmed that the thermal limiter isn't blown? In the schematic below you can see the thermal limiter in the resistor pack. It does not apply to High, but does apply to the other speeds. So if it is blown you'd have the symptoms you mentioned.

Any chance the PV has been leaking a bit all along, which masked a lean condition? Otherwise it acts like you have a vacuum leak. But you've already tested and replaced everything I would have.

Your speech is excellent! My best German is jein, so I'm in awe of you. Yes, relays can really help out the Bullnose trucks. I didn't simplify Big Blue, but I'm sure all of the relays I added make him much more reliable AND give the accessories, like the headlights and HVAC fan, a lot more power. On the window, assuming that you have good-sized wire to it, I'd guess it is a combination of things. Like maybe a motor needing lubricated, or maybe even new bearings as old bearings can let the armature drag on the field. You might look for shiny spot on the armature that indicates it is dragging. What about the window mechanism? Is it well lubed? Have you used silicone spray on the weatherstripping?

Obviously I'm not Bill, but is there any chance that your power valve was leaking a bit before it blew? Enough that now you need more choke? (You didn't say which way the choke needs adjusted, but I guessed it is lean.) I've often wondered if PV's go bad after thousands of flexes, or if they just fail when hit with a backfire. Given my Super Bee's propensity to backfire due to the lean jetting I usually experienced a failure related to that. But might the fabric crack and leak after 13 years - especially if someone frequently exercises it?

Wow! That's a lot of circuitry for one window. But, well done!

Have you looked at our new page at: Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Frames? That page shows the part numbers for all frames from 1980 through 1989, and I've highlighted the applications that use E2TZ-N, which is the same as Dad's frame and should have that cross member.

No hurry. My T19 isn't going any place - especially today at 3F and snow. Don't think I've ever seen snow at this temp nor snow that doesn't melt whatsoever.

I bought this Surface Pro 9 just before they announced the 10 with the Copilot key, so it will be years before I'm ready to buy a new PC. Hopefully by then it will work correctly, meaning follow directions and not make stuff up.

Productive day, the least one can say! Yes, that IS a productive day! I've always thought that 4.10 gears would be a good match for the AOD's .67:1 OD ratio. So I'm anxious to find out how it works in reality.

Interesting. But, at least now, there's a way to disable it. I do foresee a day when AI can, or maybe I should say "will", do things like I've been trying to do. Such as parse a document, meaning the document that's open or in the link, and give feedback on how it can be improved. (That feature is already available via opening the document in Word itself, but not if you just give it a link to the document.) And scanning a website to recommend ways of reorganizing it. Or comparing statistics that it can glean itself regarding traffic on a forum. And remembering what it learns or is taught. But right now it feels like we are talking to an extremely smart baby that has no understanding and no realization that it is supposed to follow ALL of the instructions it has been given. Having done a lot of coding, I can't imagine trying to write a program when the CPU doesn't honor all of the instructions. But that appears to be where we are.

Thanks Gary! I'm gonna send you the photo of all the shift levers together in an email so you can post it with better resolution (if Nabble allows that). Since the documentation part isn't on Nabble I was able to put your higher-res picture in. See what you think: Documetation/Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/Manual Transmission Shift Levers.

I like the 7/8 turn. One set I had took something like 1/4 turn and they were hard to engage. These are easy.

I agree, Jim. That looks factory to me. And you are right, they didn't sell the knob separately. Here's the illustration and you can see that 1K104 is the base part number for a whole bunch of parts, including the knob. And there's no number for the knob itself.

Yes, I'm fine with that. Let me see if I have others I've taken. 1987 only transfer case lever. Late 82-87 Shift Knobs (1987 on the left) My previous attempt at mapping out the differences (incomplete since I realized there's way more variations than I can fit in this image): -Upper right hand corner: Typical 1980-early 1982 with NP435, 4x4, and 1980-only shift boot trim ring. -Lower left hand corner: Typical 1982-1986 with BW T-18/T-19, 4x4, and larger transmission shift boot. -Lower right hand corner: Typical 1987 with T-19 straight lever, 1987-only 4x4 lever, and slight variations in boots. Shaun - Please check these out: Documetation/Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/Manual Transmission Shift Levers Documentation/Transfer Cases and then the Linkage tab followed by the Shift Lever Pictures tab. I'm happy to edit any of it, add more pics or descriptions, etc.

I'm fortunate to have two, with one of them only having 70,000 miles. Even down here, most of them are pretty beat up by now since the last of the small Rangers rolled off the assembly line 13 years ago. Good condition versions with less than 100k are going for $12k and above still. That's one of my biggest reasons for not going ZF5 either. They're also prone to cracking just like the T19 bellhousings, and some people refer to them as glass transmissions. You would be surprised how many differences there are in 1980-1987 manual transmission AND transfer case shifters. I attempted to map them out once, but still ended up finding even more versions I didn't know about. Below are the most common, but there's different shift levers for all of the 4-speed overdrive transmissions, bolt-on transfer case levers, different curves, etc. Here's two different transfer case lever bends. Left one is 1980- early 1982 due to threaded shift knob, but this curve went through 1986. Right one is late 1982 - 1986 with a splined knob, but this curve was also used on 1980 - early 1982 with threads. 1980-1982 NP435 Transmission Shift Lever on top (1980-early 1982 have threaded shift knobs, 82-86 have splined shift knobs) 1983-1987 T-18/T-19 Transmission Shift Lever on bottom (This one is for a T19) Shaun - Would it be ok if I used your pics on the page for transfer cases and a new page for transmission shift levers? As for a "glass" transmission, I've gotten quite a few miles on my ZF5 w/o cracking it, both behind the 351M in Dad's truck and behind the 460 in Big Blue. But I will admit that the synchros are delicate. Before rebuilding there were spots in the rotation where it would NOT go into reverse. Turns out the reverse synchro was broken. And after rebuillding third isn't quite right, in spite of having new synchros.

You won't hurt anything by running the pressure low. Worst case is that you run out of go at high RPM, but how often do you spin a 300 six to high RPM?

Looks good! Hope it fixes the problem.

I put it back several days ago but it takes awhile to percolate through the various systems. Its been back on Chrome on this tablet for a day or two.

We have a new page at Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Frames. On that page are the pages from the MPC that show what frames each truck takes. Or, maybe I should say the part numbers for those frames. So while there are no dimensions, you can determine what trucks use the same frame. And to answer a question I've highlighted the part numbers for the F150's with 133" wheelbase.

I agree. I think I can see the bends in both places on both frames. But, we have a new page: Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Frames. And there you'll find the catalog listing for all the frames. And here are some findings for part numbers of frames: 1980 F150 2WD: E2TZ 5005-N 1981 F150 4WD exc H/D: E2TZ 5005-N So Dave's truck and Dad's truck should have the same frame. However, as that is a 1982 frame given the "E2" then it is possible that when they rolled out of the factory they had different frames. But I doubt it.

Good to know.

The picture below is mine and is of Dad's truck: 1981 F150 regular cab long bed 4WD with a 133" wheelbase and two tanks.

All the (cheap) proportional brake controllers I've bought had to be mounted straight in line with the vehicle, but could be angled up or down. Then an adjustment screw needed to be turned to make a line on the dial horizontal, which evidently turned the accelerometer so it was lined up correctly. But when I looked at the owners manual I just Googled for the controller that came in my Dodge it says it has a 3-axis accelerometer which automatically accounts for differences in mounting angles. So far I haven't been successful using that controller, but I think it's just because I didn't know how to adjust it. So the jury is still out on that as an example of the 3-axis accelerometer I agree with you on this (and so do most people). But I'm not going to say that it didn't work for this guy I knew, so I mention it. However I still don't recommend the timer style. My Tekonsha doesn't have to be installed level front to rear, but it is supposed to be level side to side. And it is supposed to be installed in line with the direction of travel, as shown in the instructions:

Yes, I'm talking about the latch at the end of the visor. But only the later visors have the spot in the visor to engage the latch. And yes, if I remember correctly the holes for the outboard bracket match the Bullnose holes, but there are no holes for the inboard bracket. However there's metal there so mark for the holes and drill them. Here's a shot of the visors in Big Blue, but since I have the aftermarket headliner, called a Highliner, they look different: