Gary Lewis

Dave/FF2 - What crossmember did you use? More specifically, what wheelbase truck was it off of?

Welcome, John! Glad you joined. Wow! It does seem that you've done a lot, but then that's not unusual with these old trucks, so welcome to the club. However, I'm confused. You said you want to go with a D60 and you'd like to do a 4wd conversion. But the only way to truly use a D60 is to have 4wd. What am I missing? But if I remember correctly Sky Offroad has a setup to let you convert a 2wd frame to 4wd. I'm not sure that's the case, but I think I remember reading it. If so that's what I'd do. Last, you said "Washington", which I assume means the state. If so, I can add you to the map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu, if you give me a city.

Dave - What you are wanting to do has been done, but not by the factory. The Flareside trucks came with the midship tank but not the rear tank. However, Dave/Fuzzface2 has added a rear tank to his Flareside, and I do mean "added" as he kept the midship tank as well. So he's the guy to ask the question of, and I've tagged him to come to help you. Said another way, I cannot answer your question as all I know I learned from the documentation and since Ford never did it there is no documentation on it. But I know Dave can, so let's await his arrival.

Two things. First, please create a signature with information about your truck. This time the thread was short and I scrolled back up and found that you have an 85. But as threads get longer people won't be willing to go look for your info, so having it in the signature is important if you want people to respond. Second, you can find the part number on the page at Documentation/Fuel & Air Systems/Fuel System Part #'s/Fuel Systems & Pumps. There I think you'll find that you need E5TZ 9275-H, but you need to confirm that, especially since you said it is a 16.5 gallon tank and the MPC says it is a 17 gallon tank. But I think that's the right number as it says it has one tube, which is correct for the non-EFI systems and you said it is "pre fuel injection".

For some reason I tried one more time to use Bing/Copilot. Was watching the national championship and had time, so why not. I gave it a link to my Word document called Big Blue's Spec Card, the one I print and put with the truck at shows. And I asked if it could access it. It said it could and then proceeded to give me information from a completely different document. I proved that I'd given it the right link as I put the link in a browser tab and the document opened up. So I provided some feedback to the Copilot team explaining what had happened and that I was through playing with their toy. When, if ever, it is capable of following simple instructions to contact me.

If you can figure out what the thread, if you can call it that, is on there then we'll have something to go on. As for the inside, just tap it for whatever the bore currently is - but get a good tight tap. And get it as deep as you can so there's not a weak spot. If you don't have a finish tap you may want to buy one or make one out of your tap by grinding the taper off.

You can pull the tumbler and lubricate through its opening. The factory shop manual instructions are on the (oddly enough) Instructions tab on the page at Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns.

Yes, I'm following. On the idling issue, sometimes the ignition module or the pickup in the distributor go wonky when they get warm. So check to see if your timing changes or if the spark color turns red instead of blue or white.

Sounds like a cool truck! Was the 80 Windsor powered? Is this the one you are going to measure the engine stands on?

That looks a whole lot like the Warn I have, although mine is chrome and doesn't have tread plate on top, just smooth.

Yes, that'll work fine. And yes, you can put a gauge in one of the outlets. Set it to 4 1/2 or 5 and give it a try.

Cool! But, what did you get?????

That's funny! As for change, I tend to cause it, so am not averse. But in this case I think the change I proposed isn't a good one.

Yup. Same thing I discovered, although in my case he didn't tell me that. I had to find that out on my own, but it is true.

Looks like he handled it quite well.

How about threading the hollow end and running a bolt in it with red Loctite on it. Then take the OD down to 3/8" and thread it.

Shaun - I don't know about the transmissions, but have questions about the shift lever. What thread is currently on it, albeit stripped? It looks bigger than 3/8", but it is really hard to tell. If it is bigger then why not take it down to 3/8" and then thread it? Then, obviously, the question would be how to take it down to 3/8"? I'm sure I'm missing something easy and obvious, but I'm not seeing it. What I'm wondering is about using a slightly larger hole saw, maybe a 1/2", to go down over it. If a 1/2" is designed to leave a 1/2" hole then might it give a 3/8" plug with 1/8" on each side?

I don't worry too much about "up top". The Eddy 600 I put on in place of the 750 had enough up there for me. But then, I'm a grandpa and sometimes drive like one. (However, there might have been a few people in the last 3250 miles that would disagree with that as they thought they were going to cut me off.)

Dane - We had this one set up to notify people, usually the last person who posted, by email. Doesn't have anything to do with subscribing to the thread. So you should get an email notification when I post, which will prove my point. But then I'll edit my post to turn off "assignments", which anyone can do when posting.

Scroll down in the advert. They are down below and there are a lot of them.

Hopefully you can get it fixed tomorrow - between storms. (You have noted, I hope, that'd I've not said anything about the flaw in Holley carbs. Oh wait! I just did. )

I'm friends with Ron on Facebook and I just sent him a DM with a link to here.

Jeff - That's looks like Big Blue, albeit w/o the winch and bumper. Well done! But, as you pointed out, you don't see much color from straight on. Maybe if it was Big Bro's red, but I doubt even then that there'd be much color to see. Given the small size of the favicon, even on a fairly large screen like this tablet, it is hard to pick up the outline. The snag below shows what I'm seeing, with the brown bullnose being much easier to distinguish than the outline. There's just no way to put enough colour in the outline to make much difference.

Gum is hard to find. I had some years ago that coated the needle time after time in spite of running a whole bunch of carb cleaner in the gas. I took the carb apart and cleaned it multiple times, but it took running that tank out and getting well into the 2nd one before things lined out.

Dirt or gum in the gas can easily cause a carb to flood. It gets on the needle and prevents sealing so fuel continues to flow. That’s why I use at least one paper filter as they will filter much better than the stock metal filters that might take out gnats.