Gary Lewis

I’m a fan of the 300 six, but that stroked W will have more torque and more HP. Fun! 👍

Weird! Did the speedo quit? Like maybe the cable snapped? All the gauges work? I’m just guessing.

What about the piece that sticks out on the pic on the right? The bottom edge of the bumperette.

I missed that. Ok, I’ll watch and see how you do quads on a D60. In fact, I’ll watch to see how easy a D60 is. 😎

Didn't get a lot done today, but some: Prep'd the sway bar and tie rods for POR15'ing. But, since you need to top-coat POR15 w/in 6 hours of applying it I'll wait until tomorrow to do that. Checked the transmission crossmember for fitment, as previously discussed. It looks like it'll fit nicely. Ordered new engine "isolators", aka mounts. I pulled the old ones out and cleaned them up, but realized that they've seen better days. So I went to our parts list on the 351M/400 engines and found that I need E1TZ 6038-A and -B. Googled that and Amazon said they have them but they don't fit my truck. And, they want something like $50/ea for them. However, Rock Auto says they have them, they do fit, and they want $5/ea. Guess where I bought them? Got the shop crane out and did some checking. Doesn't look like coming in from the side is a good option. The problem is that the front axle limits where the legs of the shop crane go. And where I think I'd like to put the left leg, when coming in from the driver's side, is exactly where the axle is. So it looks like coming in from the front is the way to go. The legs on the crane will go below the D44 if I raise things up about 2" from "ground height". So, I think I'll put jack stands under the outboard ends of the TTB's where the radius arms attach. That way I'll have plenty of clearance for the legs. And, doing it that way the truck isn't going to be moving, like it might as the weight of the engine and tranny hit the supsension and the tires move. And I sure don't want it to move as the cab needs to come right back where it was originally - without hitting the bed. (The rear wheels will be chocked.) So, with that said I'm back to the question of whether I put the engine and tranny in as a unit, or put the engine in and then the tranny. I'm leaning to the latter since I don't have to set the tranny on the shop cart, a spare tire, or somesuch in order to align it with the engine. With my brother here we can set the engine in place, prop the rear of it up with a jack stand, and then come back with the tranny and ease it in place and bolt it down. Prop the rear of the tranny up with the jack stand and position the crossmember, mark the holes and drill them, and bolt it all down. Then we can add the transfer case. Sounds like a good day's work if all the bits an pieces are ready. Yes? Thoughts? Suggestions? Concerns?

Now you are talking! $900 and bring a trailer.

Sunroof? Backup tires? $7500?

If you have it shipped to me I suspect it would sparkle by the time you get here.

Now THAT'S something we could install in Sept!

Interesting. Surprised they even put trim on a test cab.

Or, he could wait until September and there would be many hands to assist! Thanks, guys! Yes, September would be a good time to do it. But, I have a goal of having it in the show, replete with engine, tranny, t-case, driveshafts, wheels, etc. And I doubt the night before would be enough time to lay the engine/tranny in, measure for the crossmember, spot and drill the holes, touch up the bare metal, and then bolt the crossmember in. Plus, my bro wants to be part of it, so that we shall do! It was his dad's truck as well, so he has an interest. Speaking of the crossmember, I've been worried that it wouldn't fit right, but with some fairly-precise measuring it looks like it will fit perfectly - although I'm not about to drill holes until the engine/tranny are in and we know exactly. (Yes, I know it should fit as the later trucks had essentially the same frame and came with the E4OD, but still....) Also, I've been scoping out how to lay the engine and tranny in. Looks like I can come in from the driver's side - through the door into the other room, for those that have been in the shop. That way I don't have to worry about the legs of the shop crane hitting the front swing arms. But, I'll need to do some more measuring to ensure that will work. And, I'm thinking about installing the engine, supporting the rear of it on a jack stand, and then laying the tranny in behind it. That would mean I don't have to figure out how to marry the engine and tranny "in the air". I only have one shop crane, so would have to pick the tranny up off the engine stand it is on, lay it on something like the tool cart but with padding so it doesn't get scratched, then pick the engine up, swing it around to meet up with the tranny, bolt them together, and then use a ratchet strap around the back of the tranny to level the combo up. Thoughts? Suggestions?

I like it! Bullnose season!!!! Count me in. And, I like that boom. Which reminds me that I'd really, REALLY like an I-beam attached to my ceiling in the shop with a winch rolling on it. I have the same thing in the attic and it easily handles engines and transmissions, which is exactly how I'd use the one down below. It would be so much easier than the shop crane I have.

Well spotted, as the Brits would say. I missed that. Speaking of Brits, one that has said he is going to join has messaged me a couple of times on FB to apologize for not having done as "life got in the way". I've tried to explain that I FULLY understand how life can get in the way of trucks.

Oh, and the vans had D8 as the prefix, so the E1 isn't for them either.

Yes, sorta. By the process of elimination an E1TB bumperette isn't for our trucks. I say that because our bumper page (Exterior/Bumpers) says that all F/U series bumperettes were E0TZ's, and I've not seen a part have an E0 part number and an E1 ID number. But, did I miss the E1 # somewhere in the adverts?

I don't know if that will fit Bullnose trucks or not. But it isn't correct for Bullnose trucks. The reason I can't tell is the seller has given us the ID/Engineering number (D4TF 9D626) for the "snorkel", which is called a Duct & Valve Assembly by Ford. That is not the # for the air cleaner body itself. However, that snorkel was not used on any Bullnose trucks. Lots of D7 snorkels were, but no D4's. Having said that, it may fit our trucks. I dunno.

I'm not sure they are the right ones. Notice how the NOS ones, on the right, have a different profile to the used ones, on the left.

Good plan Gary... partners in crime in the name of scientific rigor! I’ve been drooling over this one but looks like it has title issue and I can’t get the seller to message me 😔 https://mohave.craigslist.org/cto/d/lake-havasu-city-1980-ford-bronco/6834900963.html Bill - Thanks! Jonathan - I could easily justify $800 for that! Go for it! All - My brother just called to check in, and in the course of the conversation he said he wants to come down to help install the engine and tranny in Dad's truck. So that's a bit of impetus to get the sway bar and tie rods painted and installed. And boy, do I need some impetus. Right now the truck isn't all that high on my priority list. Anyway, I'll head out in a few to see what I can get done today.

I don't think there was a lot of image sharing going on, but I can't tell that directly from the Sumo reports. However, I can see the total number of shares and by checking on some of the popular pages it looks like they shared the page itself instead of the image. So let's leave it this way. Thanks for speaking up.

Hey Oz, Not off topic at all. I just installed all of these parts brand new last weekend myself. This week I've been working on the filler tube, neck, door, etc. The short wheel base trucks use the 16 gallon side tanks. (I believe the one I bought was listed as being a 16.5 gallon unit). I bought a Spectra brand tank, sending unit, and strap kit. Spectra F14A tank, approx $85 USD. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=17167&cc=1121443&jsn=476&jsn=476 Spectra FG75A sending unit, approx $50 USD. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=872454&cc=1121443&jsn=484 Spectra ST05 strap kit, approx $15 USD. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=17706&cc=1121443&jsn=491 I had the rubber isolator pads cut at a local shop. They used 3/32" rubber. 2 pieces 16" x 2 1/4" for the straps 2 pieces 12 1/2" x 6 1/2" for the frame crossmembers. The new tank does not come with a vent valve. I re-used my original and ordered a new seal from LMC. LMC part number 40-1241 ($4.95) Hope that helps. If you need any further info, just shout. Good info, guys. But Darin also asked if a 19 gallon tank can be used on a Flareside. Does anyone know? EDIT: I'm a whole page behind. The question has been answered and more besides.

Skid plate or Bronco??? Guys - Thanks for the prayers and thoughts. We are told, by people we know and trust, that the doctor that's doing the surgery is one of the best there is, so that's comforting. And, I'm not at all concerned about the "thread diversion". Nor having the discussion go on while I'm thinking of other things. I'm happy that you are having the discussion. On the question of ratings, it would sure be nice to find them, someplace. But I just checked and neither the Ford nor the BW manuals I have include that info. As for buying things, I vote for buying a Bronco to find out if it has a skid plate. But, just one sample won't adequately answer the question, so maybe each of us should buy one?

Yep. I kept most of the emissions stuff I took off of an '82, just in case. But there seems to be very little call for that stuff.

It is good to get back to a project. On the windshield, make sure the one you get does not have the mask for the VIN in the wrong place. The vast majority of them cover a Bullnose VIN as Ford moved the VIN soon thereafter, and most outfits only stock the later windshields. And if you let them install one of those windshields you can really have problems when you get ready to sell the truck. Don't ask. As for the transmission, I haven't pulled an AOD. But I know on a C6 you can pull the tranny and leave the torque converter. So I'd bet the one on the AOD will as well, but perhaps someone that's done it will chime in.

Well spotted, Cory.

Nice! But, while there are lots of people building these, I'd rather work on a big one. Driving them is more fun.