Gary Lewis

I was afraid the mix and match wasn't going to be easy. But Ray turned it down anyway. Anyway, Scott said he drove the truck for about an hour, and part of it was on very rough dirt roads. In all that time he only had the wobble happen once, and it happened on a very rough road and went away when he slowed down a bit. In contrast, prior to the new bushings the wobble would happen on normal roads and you had to stop to get it to go away. So it was a dramatic improvement and he's going to drive the truck more before worrying about what else to fix. However, he has a new Bluetop steering box on it and we compared it to the RedHead on Dad's truck. Night and day difference. The RedHead has absolutely no play in it, while the Bluetop has significant play. So he is going to shoot a video of the play and get back with Bluetop to see what they'll do. He says he may have a total of 10 miles on it and there's something wrong there.

When I was given the '50 Chevy pickup it was w/o title as the original had recently burned up in a house fire. And when I contacted the tag office they had the state go back through their records to find the title so I could pay the back taxes and the penalty, which could easily have run into many thousands of dollars. Fortunately they didn't find the title and had to make a new one.

Steve - That's a serious problem, and one I don't know how to fix. Can you try another browser? I'm wondering if you need to clear the cookies, but don't want to ask you to do that if another browser has the same problem. I just had a problem with this tablet running Win 10x64 & Chrome where clicking on a link in the Weebly editor for this site did nothing. But other browsers worked fine. So I cleared the cookies for the Weebly site only in Chrome and it fixed the problem. Jim - I hadn't kept up with Bluffdale, but that is a LOT of water. However, I don't see new PC's advertised with water cooling anymore, so that may not be an option for most of us. On the other hand, I have seen magazines touting overclocking of the latest chips for gamers.

I think you need to post a pic of that spacer. Assuming that your truck is a 2bbl, the original spacer should have been cast iron or aluminum. And there would have been an EGR valve hanging off the back of it. So if yours isn't metal then I don't think it is original. As for the exhaust gas, it comes in via the intake manifold, up into the spacer, and then into the air/fuel mix. Perhaps someone put a spacer on that blocks the EGR port in the intake manifold?

Is it online? When I click the "Literatire" tab in the pulldown menu, it just pulls down a blank line. Several of them do that. No, it isn't online. And it is secured such that I can't easily do that. But on the literature issue, do you mean you hit the three bars above left and then click literature and get nothing? Here's what I get when I do that:

Ok, I've asked if there is a way to put a link on the bottom of the page.

I don't think I'd like that, Rick. It is your truck, but ......

Heh, thanks. The surest sign that things are looking up is that my wife was approving of the truck when she rode in it today; she hadn't been in it since the seat was redone. She pointed out that her feet weren't hot and the A/C didn't pee on her, both complaints of hers in the past. I'm really just about out of interior work to do at this point. I need to clean and polish the sun visor brackets, and the visors themselves could do with replacement (but not at the prices I'm seeing online). And if I got really motivated I could repaint the face of the glovebox and dashboard. But aside from that I'm done...and once I get the truck painted next year, it will be something to be proud of. It already is something to be proud of. And your wife is already acknowledging that. If you are going to replace the visors I'd go to the Bricknose or later ones. They bolt into the same holes as ours, but their rod goes past the shade and they have a clip that the rod fastens into. That way they don't droop like the Bullnose visors nor swing around at inopportune times. But, the inside clip doesn't sit exactly square to the rest of the truck, so clip it onto the rod to figure out where the holes should go. Don't ask.

I don't know if it can be replicated as I've not had one in my hands. Perhaps someone else on here will come along that has had one is their hands and can tell us. As for what the part is called, things are called many different things by people on the street. But that doesn't mean that is what the part actually is. So if you are looking for a part you have to be flexible in what you call it as different people call different parts different things. Technically the part shown as 17808 in that Ford illustration is not a valence. The illustration I included as well as the part numbers are directly from Ford's Master Parts Catalog. So the part is a DEFLECTOR (REAR BUMPER) in Ford-speak, and they should know as it was theirs. And the part #'s are: 80/86 U150 — w/step bumper E0TZ 17808-A 80/86 U150 — w/o step bumper E0TZ 17808-B So, armed with the part number you could Google it and see if someone has one. But that is fraught with problems as there are several ways people list part numbers. The way I've shown the numbers above is the correct way as it is cut and pasted from Ford's catalog. But, many times people that don't know better read the "0" in E0TZ, which is a zero, as an upper case "O". So you should search for it as EOTZ as well as E0TZ. And others that don't know the Ford convention write the part number with a dash, as E0TZ-17808-A or E0TZ-17808-B. And while that is not correct, you need to search for it that way as well because people may list it that way.

Well done, Matthew! I think it is more than a tiny victory as the broken locks look awful. And as Jim said, you interior is getting better with each removal of a layer.

Ahhh! Yes, those would take points. As for the old man shaking fist at clouds emoji, I didn't find anything that seems to fit that description on FTE. And I didn't find something in my searches. So, can you point me to one?

This is a problem that's bitten me a few times, but each time I've been on a real computer, not a mobile device. And on a computer you can do a Control+ or Control- and zoom in or out which seems to resolve the problem. Were you on a computer or mobile device? If the latter, is there a way to zoom in/out? Anyway, I'll see if I can get it fixed. Similar question - are you on a computer or mobile device? On a computer and on my iPhone I have "Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)" at the very top of the screen. If you click on it you are taken to the main page. But, maybe that's not that obvious? So, what if it was blue with a line under it? Would that make it obvious that it is a link? Anyway, I'll check and see what it would take to put a link to the main page at the bottom of every page.

Harking back to what I said about the march of technology, I realize that my truck was the very last implementation of a carburetor in the United States. And at 32 years old it's unlikely that anyone under 42 would remember it as it was sold. I have to remind myself whenever I try to buy something like points that the person selling it to me never lived in a world where they existed. (Sorry for the hijack) Good point! I'll think about that next time I'm in the parts store. But what are you buying points for?

I hadn't see that. Not sure what I think of it.

You mean 17808 in the drawing below? That's actually DEFLECTOR (REAR BUMPER) in Ford-speak, and the part #'s are: 80/86 U150 — w/step bumper EOTZ 17808-A 80/86 U150 — w/o step bumper EOTZ 17808-B But I don't know any more than that.

But, for $100????? Seriously though, I fully understand. Keep Holly happy.

Happy to help. We are family.

I agree with Jim. The sandpaper approach works well to level things, and shows where the high spots are very quickly. You need all of those surfaces to be FLAT.

Yep, that's what my '71 Bronco has. I used urethane "C" bushings on mine (and had to replace them several times*) and getting the bolts that hold the caps on to draw it down tight too a LOT of torque! More than my impact wrench was capable of, so I had to use a breaker bar the whole way (about 1 1/2" of thread). And that was after using a C-clamp to squeeze it on far enough to get enough thread engagement to feel good about how much torque I was applying! * For lifted vehicles with this suspension you can buy C-bushings with the inside and outside at different angles to adjust caster. It took two tries to get the caster close to right the first time, and then two more to get it right when I lowered the rear end of the radius arms (it actually had negative caster when I bought it ) And urethane, in place of the standard rubber, gives a tighter steering feel and lasts longer, but gives less articulation off-road. I kind of wish I had gone with rubber for the articulation. Bob - I literally when reading your note. We used urethane and certainly needed the c-clamps to get the bolts to reach. But, as for the torque, we didn't have an FSM so looked up 9/16-12 bolts and the torque range for a G5 was 100 lb-ft so that's what we used. That brought the two halves of the C's together very firmly. And, the bushings were marked with the degree of caster. I don't remember what that was, but it was for a stock vehicle. Oddly enough, those Prothane bushings didn't come with the grease packets, but we used some I had left over to ensure they don't groan. Hope that was appropriate.

You might consider buying that. If for nothing else than the solid-axle D44. That's the same exact setup that WelderScott has - I know 'cause we just worked on it extensively yesterday. And that solid axle/coil spring setup is a good one. However, I don't know how hard it would be to swap it into/under a Bullnose. I don't know if the radius arms are the same length, meaning that the Bullnose brackets are in the correct place. But it might make for a good 4x4 setup. Also, getting an NP205 for $100 is a good buy in and of itself as they are supposedly sought after.

Pretty laid back bunch here with a "live and let live" attitude. There are a lot of Bullnoses being dragged out of fields and barns these days to be lovingly repaired, and they usually need A LOT of work. I don't mind admitting that I'm one of those guys that paid way too much for a truck that needed way too much work, so I'd have a hard time giving anybody else a hard time...lol. And besides, trucks being "ugly" is trendy these days...lol, so that shouldn't be an issue either. But we do like to give people contemplating transplanting a French heart into an American truck a hard time. On dragging trucks out of fields/barns and restoring them, that's an expensive and time-consuming endeavor which is best used on trucks with sentimental value.

Yes, I kinda wanted to see it as well. And I offered to store it here until John, the paint/body guru, can get to it. But Janey's cousin wanted to wait and with what we have going on in the family I was a bit relieved. As for the tanks and bottles, I talked to him about welding the crossmember, but forgot to ask about the tanks and bottles. However, we have a luncheon after church today and perhaps I'll get a chance to ask him about them then.

Jim - It looks like you fit right in with many of the others of us. However I never "Geeked" on much of anything. I did jail break an early iPhone, but found the benefits were not worth the continued and increasingly difficult re-jail breaking. And I did add a solid-state drive and a pretty significant graphics processor to the shop computer, but I doubt that qualifies. Hank - I'm glad you joined us. Many of us have spent considerable time on FTE, and some of the guys still do. But I find this forum takes all the time I can give it, which is probably more than I should, so I don't go back to FTE except to find something I've written up previously. However, I'm sure glad they have such a high opinion of the info here.

The fact that the idle changes says you have a vacuum leak, and that will raise idle speeds so must be addressed. But, I don't know what you mean by "the wedge". Do you mean 9A589 in this illustration? If so that's the spacer and yes you must have a gasket both sides or it'll leak.