Gary Lewis

Scott - That's awesome work. As for the powder coating, I'd like to see the pics more up close and personal, but even zooming on my screen doesn't really do it. How 'bout editing the code that Nabble sticks in to include "width="100%", as shown below: (I've removed the "" characters from the front and rear so's it doesn't post a pic and you can see the code.) nabble_img src="Big_Blues_Crossmember_Hack_Cleaned_Up.jpg" border="0"width="100%"/

Ok, I'll see if the lady can make more.

Ford called it a "pressure differential valve", but had this to say about it in the 1980 factory shop manual:

Ok, it is time to kick off this thread in earnest since I started on the RSK installation today. But, before we get into that you may need some background if you haven't been following Big Blue's Transformation. That's because I discovered that the front of the frame was bent. The measurement from the outside of the frame was 41 1/8" when it is supposed to be 40". I bring that up here because I don't think everything I am experiencing on Big Blue is normal. I'm guessing that not only was the frame bent out, it is also slightly twisted, and that is making the installation of the reverse shackle kit more difficult that it should be. However, Big Blue is almost 35 years old, so a lot can happen during that length of time. Anyway, I did get started on installation of the RSK today. The first step is to grind flush the heads of the rivets that hold the spring shackle brackets on. With that done I tried to slip the new bracket over the frame, but it wouldn't go for several reasons. The big reason was due to the distance between frame horns, which had crept back up to more than 40". So I put the come-along on. But everywhere I picked initially was in the way. Finally I put it between the two frame liners and that worked and was out of the way. Here's a pic of where I put the come-along, in case your frame is tweaked as well. And, you can also see a couple of other things. First, that I used c-clamps to hold the frame brackets or fillers in place as they kept falling out. Second, that I found that starting the bracket from the top worked best. Get it on and then rotate it down. I finally got the thing almost in position, but without the engine in I can't really push up without raising the truck up. So tomorrow it'll come off and I'm going to do a better job of smoothing the heads of the rivets as I think they are causing some problems. And, I'm going to round the corners/edges of the Sky bracket's flanges as they are crisp and catch on anything and everything on the frame. But, I also had a realization that caused a call to Erik. Their picture is on the left, below, and mine is on the right. And the obvious difference is that my frame doesn't have the holes in it that theirs does. Erik said I'll have to drill the holes, and explained how to properly situate the bracket by rotating it on the front shackle bolts and measuring back to the original rear shackles. Then I can mark the holes and drill them.

Good to know, but I'll be anxious to see your test results.

I'll probably run shorties on Dad's truck, but Scotty, the Mad Porter, has convinced me that long-tubes are the way to go for Big Blue. And with my experience with L&L's on it heretofore, I'll probably go back to L&L's. However, since the EFI 460 heads take different intakes and exhausts then the carb heads, they'll have to be new ones.

You aren't out of place! You fit right in - especially if you are going to put a Q-Jet on that truck. I like the Carterbrocks, but the Q-Jet is my favorite. Very flexible and capable.

Yep, here's what mine says - nothing from 1985 to 2006:

I like dual exhausts and plan to have them on both of my trucks. And I'll use Magnaflow mufflers on both of them as well. But I don't have any pro tips. My plan is to take my trucks to a pro somewhere and have systems custom made for them.

It does look like that aftermarket unit.

I don't remember for sure what you have. It would really help if you had a signature that tells us what you have and are doing. There are over 500 people on the forum and it is hard to keep track of everything in my little brain. Anyway, relying on my memory, I'm not sure you want to eliminate those wires. If I remember correctly you have an '87 Bronco II, and if its wiring is anything like the Bullnose wiring there are feeds to the fuse box in those wires. So you'd lose accessories, if nothing else.

Rick - No, sorry. Some E-Series vans and... E4TZ 2B257-C 84/ F250 - - 2/W/D - Over 6900 G.V.W. and Under 8500 G.V.W. 84/ F350 - - 2/W/D - Crew Cab w/single rear wheels w/9200 G.V.W. and 4.9L, 5.8L, 6.9 dsl, engs. 84/ F350 — w/dual rear wheels

Why "sometime in the future"? Why not kick around the plans for it now?

I hadn't considered the possibility of the valve guides...but with 'only' 135K miles on the engine, surely they wouldn't be worn out, would they? With the engine having sat mostly unused for 14 straight years, though, I can definitely see the seals being shot. Anyway, you want a tool that doesn't expect you to have the head off the truck, and the Orion Motor Tech one appears to require you to remove the head. And there's the 'compelling reason' I was looking for; I am most certainly NOT removing the head from the engine. I didn't realize that was the difference between the tool types, although since you've mentioned it it's pretty obvious. I've considered it, but I'm a little leery of sticking things in holes where they don't belong (my mother continually warned me about stuff like that...she was in public health, so you can guess she wasn't referring to trucks), so I'll probably pass. Plus my air compressor is literally three feet away from the truck... The guides may be worn, but new seals can certainly help with the oil running down the guides during long rests. And, there may be a bit of smoke when you coast, which creates high vacuum in the cylinders and sucks oil in. But, that's probably getting burned up in the catalytic converter as it'll be hot after running a few minutes. So I'd replace the seals and not worry about the guides unless you have other problems.

Yeah, I said that about Big Blue. And now I have the RSK stuff, the front receiver, and the step brackets to powder coat. And several parts under the hood to clean, if not powder coat. Onion layers??? I think a bent frame, loose huck bolt, and hacked up crossmember are more than "layers". Maybe whole onions in and of themselves? Granted the frame weren't as big of problems as they first seemed, but the crossmember's "fix" has been in the making for at least two months. So, is it time to eat a Bloomin' Onion? Or, at least an order of onion rings from Sonic?

Yes, I think it is probably valve guides and seals. But replacing guides is something I'd hire done, while replacing seals can be done yourself. And you are on the right track with valve holder, but they probably don't include a quick disconnect since there are several. However, you can easily add that. As for the spring compressor, I think you would be fine with something like the Lisle 16560, which works with the head still on the engine. But let's see what others say as I've not done much of this. Anyway, you want a tool that doesn't expect you to have the head off the truck, and the Orion Motor Tech one appears to require you to remove the head.

I hope you do! I'll be wearing mine. Which begs the question of how many more of those we need?

Dave, you are now on the map.

Welcome! Isn't it amazing how kids love these trucks? And if you get yours involved in the work on it they'll like it even better. We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu). Would you like me to add you?

You really don't like painting, do you? But, it is going to be very hot today. Take care. Cool weather isn't far down the pike.

He won't get even half that. Maybe $15K. That's what Big Blackie went for and he was a better truck. Overall I like the truck. But I don't like the speakers, or maybe I should say where they are installed. He should have gotten door panels with the speaker openings and put them in the factory position. (Or, put them where Big Blue's are and cut the door to make them fit? )

I see that ACC has cutpile, Essex, and vinyl. And little pictures. But no descriptions. So, what is the Essex style? How does it differ from cut pile?

I think a lot of us are looking forward to Perry's kits.

Check the map now. Should be close enough?

You are a human dynamo! You make me tired just following along, but well done!