Gary Lewis

Wikipedia says "Weber is an Italian company which produces carburetors; it is owned by Magneti Marelli Powertrain S.p.A., which is in turn part of Marelli. Carburetor production in Italy ended in 1992 when Weber shifted carburetor production to Madrid, Spain, where it continues today.[1]"

That's great as long as you can get something that fits and works. I had a 1971 Colony Park, originally a 429 2 barrel, after a little research I found the only difference in 2 and 4 barrel engines was the intake and carburetor so I installed a used intake and a Holley service replacement carb. Car had a single exhaust, with a pretty good size pipe and muffler. I believe the tailpipe was 2 1/4", the aftermarket decided in a nice example of MBA think that since the exhaust was shared in common with the Ford wagons that a nice 1 7/8" tailpipe was the best seller and all other sizes were dropped. Try to make a 429 4 barrel breathe through a tailpipe designed for a 302 2 barrel, pretty good until you either go to pull out on the interstate or pass someone and you get all the effect of a plugged converter. Bill - You don't like headers, but with the exception of the driver's side hitting the frame, my L&L's have not given me a bit of problem. No leaks of any kind. And, since I know that a piece of 1/4" plate between the perch and the mount will solve the interference problem, when Scotty said I should go with headers I changed my mind. Actually, his exact statement was "As to the HP numbers they are WITH headers. Manifolds are restrictive, made of a different material than the cast iron heads and WILL over time cause bolt and exhaust bolt ear damage. Avoid them." And later he said "Stock manifolds will kill hp and tq as I am sure you know. OEM manifolds are made of a different material than the heads, expand at a different rate and cause issues with bolt breakage as well and exhaust ear issues." So I plan to go with L&L's EFI headers. Same 1/2" thick flange as the ones I have, but they'll match up to the EFI ports. Then I can bolt on the old exhaust that I cut off, tack on the cherry bombs, and take it somewhere to have a full exhaust system put on with Magnaflow muffs.

Wow! That's some trip! How many miles?Maybe you should bypass Cajun country?Alamo? Fought there?Are you staying with your grandmother? She's going to love seeing that truck!

Bill - Wiki said 1.08 on 2150's. 2100's did have a wider range. Jim - Where we lived in PA there was a V12, and he'd light it up every once in a while. MAN! I like a sweet-sounding V8, but nothing comes close to the prancing horse when it gets wound up.

I've never worked on one, but I certainly like the concept of having progressive 2bbl's. However, Webers are 'spensive. And "foreign", at least to me. I can build a 2150.

Ok guys, I guess there is a lot of variability in the frames. Which is a perfect lead in to the problems I had today. But first, what went well, sorta. And that was to drill the bolt holes for the shackle bolts out to 7/8" to take the "frame sleeve" from Sky. Here's a pic of the frame sleeve sitting on top of the frame, and the holes that I drilled out below it and to the right a bit. I say "holes" because I drilled both the inside and outside holes on each side of the truck. In other words, the frame and the riveted-on hanger. But, when I got to thinking about what the instructions say I wasn't sure I'd done it right, so called Erik and confirmed that both were to have been drilled. Here's a shot with the sleeve installed in the hole. Unfortunately I didn't get a pic of the inside where the sleeve goes into the riveted-on hanger. But the sleeve only engages about 1/3 of the thickness of the hanger. I spent some time cleaning up and radiusing the holes on the outside of the frame to accept the radius where the narrow part of the sleeve hits the "knob", but even then I couldn't get much more engagement. That's a problem because the sleeve falls out of the hanger and you have to reach up inside to put it back in. Plus, as you'll see, the inside holes for the bracket don't line up and while you are trying to line them up the sleeve keeps falling out. Erik agreed that they should make the sleeve longer as he had the same problem on the one "early truck", as he calls ours, on which he installed this kit. But for me, I'm seriously considering tack welding it in place. However, that means I have to paint it with weld-through primer before I install it. But, with smoothing the rivets more and rounding the edges of the plates on Sky's bracket I was able to get the bracket on today. Here's a shot of it in about the right location, save for the problem described below. And, you can see the 5/8" shackle bolt is started through the sleeve and the frame. And, now for the real problem. In the pics below, which are left/driver's side and right/passenger's side, the bracket is in place and the 5/8" shackle bolts have been inserted through the hole in the outside plate of the bracket, through the sleeve described above, and up against the inside plate on the bracket. But the holes don't line up! However, they do line up when the bracket is not on the truck. And that's the point at which I called Erik at Sky. He remembered having the same battles on the one "early truck" he put this kit on, both the battle of the sleeve falling out and the holes not lining up. And then he asked "Was this originally a TTB truck?" At which point I think it dawned on me what the problem is - the frame horns are twisted. I can't say for sure why they are twisted, but I'm guessing that the rotation of the TTB twisting the springs also twisted the frame over time. As for what to do about it, I'm thinking of bolting a piece of channel to the bumper holes and using a come-along from the top of it to the frame on the other side. That should bring the inside end of the bolt down and let it come through the hole. Then I'll move the channel to the other side and do the same thing. Thoughts?

That's a valid concern. None of these parts are super tight with their clearances. I pulled a few latches from some jy doors (in case this project was a bust) and tested them vs the coated ones after applying the grease. The coated ones work just as well and seem to have a little more 'snap' to them. For the door latches it took a lot of blasting and a lot of cleaner to get the old grease out of all the nooks and crannies but the aerosol lithium spray did a good job of replacing it all. None of the parts I've done aside from possibly the sliding seat tracks have been tight enough on clearance that the coating has caused an issue. I like seeing the parking brake all black also. It wasn't too bad to do - you just have to drill out the stepped rivet that holds the handle on and then force out (after heating) the hard rubber grommet the handle goes through. Yes, I coated the channels also. Everyone that gets in your truck wants to look at the innards of the doors to see if they are shiny, right? If you plan on getting your vent windows tinted and you have the door apart anyways, I would recommend going ahead and removing the glass completely. After disassembling the vent window (being careful to not twist the threaded rod), I removed the glass from the frame by heating it in the oven. I then coated the frame and dropped it and the glass off at the window shop. They tinted the windows and reinstalled them in the frame. This allows the tint to look seamless/factory. They are a jumble for sure. I've got a few doors in the shop and the spares that I pulled from the junkyard still have the rods on them that I plan on using as guides to put them all back together. If ever needed, I can add a photo of them. While on the topic of coating things, I'll go ahead and add the accelerator pedal. This one was really a bit of a pain to do but I do like the look of it over the somewhat rusty original. Wow! Just WOW! Dad's truck has some SERIOUS competition! Well done. I'm impressed.

I thought the black was only with the XLS models, but this indicates it was an option.

Just to make sure everyone is on the same page, which part numbers are you looking for? Here's the illustration for the mid-ship tank: And here's the illustration for the aft-axle tank:

Jim - We aren't planning on installing it at the show. Maybe powder coat it, but not install. Bill - I know you know it, but for the others: 2bbl and 4bbl carbs are rated at different levels of vacuum for CFM. The 1 and 2bbl carbs were rated at 3.0", and 4bbl's are rated at 1.5" of vacuum. So, to convert a 4bbl rating to a 2bbl, or for that matter a 1bbl, you multiply by 1.414. So, to use 2bbl carbs to replace the 715 CFM 4bbl on Bill's Shelby you'd need several 2bbl carbs rated at a total of 1011 CFM. Wikipedia says the smallest 2150 had a 1.08" venturi and flowed 287 CFM. Two of them would be 574 CFM, but that's only 406 CFM if it were a 4bbl, and that's a very little 4bbl. Compare that to what I've read is the Carter YF's rating of 196 CFM. So two 2150's would have the capacity of three YF's. Sounds about right.

I doubt VV's are in the offing, to borrow Brit parlance. But, I don't know that there is a plan. Getting the intake was Step 1. Do you have any recommendations, Bill? I know you'll ask what cam, compression, etc and that's all up in the air as well. Anyway, something that would be small enough for two of them to feed 300 cubes at low RPM.

I could use the marker just on the carb and the scribe wouldn't do any real damage. I'm sure at one point we'll want to do that. Good idea.

Eureka! Here's a bottom shot of the VV bolted to the adapter. The only potential problem, and its a minor one, is possible underlap where the adapter fits the base of the carb. I traced it in pencil, which is hard to see in this pic, but I've pointed out two spots to look at closely. I think a gasket would still seal, but the line is actually outside of where they fit up, and you can see into the gap. But, a thin aluminum plate would seal it up, with gaskets top and bottom - if there is a vacuum leak,

Hmmm? According to this link, the adapter may be more useful than initially thought! https://picclick.com/Clifford-Intake-Manifold-2-Barrel-Carburetor-Adapter-08-1013-322699502155.html I've asked permission from the owner to cut open the plastic bag that the adapter is in, but to this point I don't have it. But, it looks like the VV I have will fit, and it does so will a 2150.

Cory - I don't remember having to take the glass out/off. And, I remember Cash breaking his and writing a how-to: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/vent-windows.html. As for what I did to my truck, the UPS guy delivered this today, but I'm at a loss how to use it. I know it says "6=8", but am I supposed to saw two cylinders off that 460? And there are some sort of adaptors, but I can't get my Carterbrocks to fit. What gives?

Clean fingernails! Only because it was lunch time and I'd cleaned up to go into the house. In spite of having used a full can of brake cleaner and most of a roll of paper towels cleaning things, the underside of Big Blue is still a mess from the engine oil that it spewed.

And, here's the tag as well as a shade-tree mechanic's fingers.

Yep, I can take a pic of the label later and post it. As for payment, just pay when I ship it or you pick it up. Any left overs will be for sale at the show, so if someone says they want one and then decides not to get it there's no harm no foul.

Ok, there's now a thread called, oddly enough, Tee Shirts.

Some are asking for tee shirts, and the lady that made them for me last year says she can make more just like them. So please let me know if you are interested. I believe they were $12/each last year, which just covers the costs, but if someone remembers for sure please let me know. If shipping is required I'd want to cover the freight as well. But for those coming to the show you could pick it/them up here. Here's a shot of mine, which is a Large. And you can see more of them on the Bullnose Forum/Ford Show & Swap Meet page and the 2018 tab.

I would save the rubber floor mat, and not remove the pad. Lay it out in the sun, upside down, and dry it out. That won't take much and if you decide not to use it someone else might want it. Some have said that they don't like the rubber floor mat as it traps moisture - pretty much as you've seen. But with any leak the pad is going to get wet, and you do want a pad to lower the noise and heat in the cab. So even with carpet you'll have a wet floor and it is hard to get it completely dry. The key is getting the cab weather tight. And one of the many sources of leaks is the cowl seal. Another is the windshield seal. Another is the vent in the kick panel - if you have them. I'd get the hose out and put someone in the cab and find the leak(s). Now for the floor. Yours looks much like Big Blue's, and I'm going to get it "surgically clean", and treat it with several coats of POR15. (There are other brands that may be better, but POR15 is what I have so I'll use it.) That will bond with the rust and seal the floor such that the rust is stopped and no moisture will get through in future.

Was there a shirt-ordering thread that I missed? No, but I'll create one....

Yep, there are times we must take the "quick and easy" road rather than the "fix it better than new" road. As said, I did that on Big Blue when I first got him and the Powermaster alternator died. Luckily there was a regulator still on the fender and a 1G sitting on the shelf. A few minutes later I was able to get back to figuring out what the other, much more major, problems were with the truck.

Generousity? I had money show up in my Paypal account to cover the shackles and shipping. Anyway, glad you can use them. But hope it goes easier than you think it will.

Scott - That's awesome work. As for the powder coating, I'd like to see the pics more up close and personal, but even zooming on my screen doesn't really do it. How 'bout editing the code that Nabble sticks in to include "width="100%", as shown below: (I've removed the "" characters from the front and rear so's it doesn't post a pic and you can see the code.) nabble_img src="Big_Blues_Crossmember_Hack_Cleaned_Up.jpg" border="0"width="100%"/