Gary Lewis

Congrat's! Two in one go is quite unusual.

By him, for sure! It isn't a bad looking truck, but that's really not my cup of tea. And while you couldn't build it for that, you could probably buy another 90's Bronco for lots less than that and then add what you wanted.

VW - Welcome! Glad you joined us. But not that many are following this thread, but they do follow the New Members postings, so how 'bout going there and introducing yourself? Jim - I thought that's what you were implying. But in my experience replacing those bushings isn't that hard of a job. But the bushings in the springs can be - at least that's what I've read recently.

It does... but I don’t think the Clifford intake is separated inside. I think it’s open all the way through. Also the EFI exhaust is a Y and joins together (at least in its stock form). I don’t know if it makes a big difference or not, but that’s the configuration. The Clifford isn't separated, but that will only smooth things out a bit in the flow. And, were I to build a 300 I'd want dual exhausts and not use the Y.

That's encouraging, thanks. On the sludge, be careful. You'll meet David/1986F150Six here in a few weeks, and he'll tell you about his experience two years ago coming to the show. His engine had been sludged up when he got the truck and he had been changing oil frequently over the years in the hopes of getting the sludge out. And, he did - on the trip here. It partially blocked the pickup screen on the oil pump and he started losing oil pressure. That's pretty much my nightmare scenario. On the bright side...early 2011 is when I started dumping in the Seafoam. In late 2013 I replaced the oil pan, and as part of that I removed and inspected the oil pump. It didn't show any sign of sludge accumulating on the screen - maybe the Seafoam just hadn't done anything by that point, or maybe the sludge was thoroughly dissolving. Then again, that was six years ago - maybe it's been slowly building up since then and I'm headed for trouble. I'll have to ponder at least temporarily adding in a mechanical oil pressure gauge, just to see what I've got - all I have now is the idiot light. So hopefully the Seafoam has already cleaned things up and you'll find a spic and span head under that valve cover. What did it look like under the side cover? It looked good. I had the side cover off as well in 2011, and I remember thoroughly cleaning the inside of the cover itself - it's still clean now. The space where the pushrods are is also nice and clean, but I don't recall what the state of that area was before - but I do know I didn't clean it. So...definitely no worse than in 2011, but maybe better? I think the valve cover will tell the tale tomorrow. If you didn't have sludge in the pan in 2013, after using Seafoam for a couple of years, I'd bet you don't have sludge. And the fact that the back side of the side cover was clean pretty well confirms that. But, I agree that the valve cover will tell the tale. However, it won't hurt to put an aftermarket temp, oil pressure, and voltmeter on it before the trip. That'll give you a lot of peace of mind.

LOL! I was outside the other day placing tape over the openings in the transmission cover on Big Blue and then it hit me - this thing isn't even bolted on! I carried it out here in the 100 degree heat and am taping it when I could have done it inside! So, welcome to my world. I haven't used that particular sealant, but have used Indian Head that works somewhat similarly. And for gaskets like you are doing it works quite well. But, it eventually sets up where that stuff doesn't. I think you've found something very nice. On the sludge, be careful. You'll meet David/1986F150Six here in a few weeks, and he'll tell you about his experience two years ago coming to the show. His engine had been sludged up when he got the truck and he had been changing oil frequently over the years in the hopes of getting the sludge out. And, he did - on the trip here. It partially blocked the pickup screen on the oil pump and he started losing oil pressure. He turned around about an hour from home and got home but the engine wasn't sounding too good. He and his wife got in her car and came on to the show, and when he got home he had a mechanic friend look into it. Luckily there was no damage, but quite a scare. So hopefully the Seafoam has already cleaned things up and you'll find a spic and span head under that valve cover. What did it look like under the side cover?

Go to the page in the link above, click on the Ford Service Manuals tab, and then the 4180C-4V tab. Scroll down to Page 18 and see if that helps. If not I may be able to take pics of mine tomorrow. Not sure I'll get out to the shop, but I hope to do so.

That is probably a standard Holley screw. I'll look to see if I have an extra, but don't have very many Holley parts. Someone on here might though.

Oh, you lost that shouldered bolt that goes through the middle of the choke and to which the linkage attaches?

Charlie - Did you lose a nut or a bolt/screw? You said "cant find the bolt on it. This is where the nut should go." So I'm confused. Please sort me out as I'm dense.

Bushing cups? Crossmember?

Yep, I hope I can cut the heads off rivets nicely now. But, I do want to do the least damage possible on the brackets - someone might need them.

Congrat's! It is always a good feeling when you persevere - and win. And $100 for an AVS is a great price!

I mean it wouldn't fire, still always is trying to turn over. Then I'll guess it is flooded. The 2150 has the Holley-style accelerator pump that can leak. If it does it can flood the engine, making restarting it difficult for several hours. And/or, the choke may not be coming off properly. So check the choke after it has run. Is it off? If so and the engine doesn't want to start try opening the throttle fully and see if that helps it start. And, take a flashlight and look down through the carb to see if you see gas dribbling or if the bottom of the intake manifold is wet.

Then I don't know. Lost. I understand what you've done, I just don't know why it is doing that.

Don't the EFI manifolds split the exhaust into two sets of three cylinders, just like the Clifford intake does? Seems like that would be a good way to go.

Oh, I almost forgot. After taking the measurements posted above I was going to take the passenger's side rear spring mount off so at least I'd get something done. But, after looking it over I realized it's going to be a bear to get to them with a cutoff wheel. So I thought I'd use Steve/FoxFord33's recommendation to use an air chisel. But then I realized I don't have a chisel to go in my air hammer and took a trip to Tractor Supply and got these. Hopefully they'll make what looks to be a tough job lots easier. 1060162.10601621100839.1100839

Ok Shaun, makes sense. As said, I've been discussing this with Vincent Wayne Thomason on the Bullnose Fords 80-86 FB page. He's the one that ordered the kit on Thursday. Here's his recent post:

That's exactly what I was thinking. (Before I went out to eat weeds and mow the yard. Yeah, it seemed like I was eating weeds as I had them literally ALL over me.) Which is kinda my rationale for pulling the hoses. If it does it with the hoses on but not with them off, then there's something going on while the truck is shut off. Vacuum, pressure, something.

When you say "no dice" does that mean it didn't even turn over? Or didn't fire?

Charlie - Where you been? On the part, can you find it in the illustration here? Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Holley 4180C

Now that’s funny! 🤣

It isn't moving parts I'm wondering about. But if the lids are truly identical. Just thinking that maybe that test would tell us something. As for the choke kicker, you can verify that with the engine cold by pulling the air cleaner and opening the throttle by hand. And by the time you tried to open the choke that way you'd pumped it several times, so the engine really was flooded. Another possibility: What if the carb has a vacuum on it from the canister? I'm just thinking, and pulling the hoses might tell us something.

How 'bout pulling the hoses off of the barbs to verify that the carb works ok with that lid? As for the hard starting, I'm sure you are thinking like I am - it is flooded. So can you verify that by instead of pumping the gas pedal just flooring it? I assume the 4100 has a choke kicker at WOT, right? With those two data points we'd know a bit more.