Gary Lewis

Right on all counts. You just have to gently touch the brake pedal on Big Blue and the speed control shuts off. Unfortunately Kurt doesn't have a switch on his master cylinder. Maybe this would be a good time to do the master cylinder upgrade?

That's the way I "read" the picture - driveway pavers as the load. And I'm with your earlier statement, he's off a factor of 10 as that's way more than 160 lbs.

I'm pretty sure the current will raise when the voltage raises. It worked that way for my HVAC blower motor. But since power = voltage x current the power goes up a lot faster than the voltage goes up. For example: Voltage to motor @ 8.4v due to old wiring and current was 8.6A for 72 watts Voltage to motor @ 13.0 volts because I jumpered around the trucks wiring and the current was 14.3 amps, which calculates to 186 watts. And there was a huge difference in air flow. So if your wiring is bad you might want to consider using it to trigger a relay that pulls power from a new, larger, wire from the battery via a fuse. That's what I did for the blower motor and it made a big difference.

The cart looks pretty complete. I don't notice anything missing. Good luck, Jim!

The number of pulses/mile or revolution doesn't matter. The speed control just keeps the number of pulses that were being generated when you hit Set the same. But apparently the Bullnose pulses are the same as what was expected in the 90's as my speed control picks up or drops off 1.0 MPH each time that Set or Coast is hit. And you are right, the brake switch should never have had power all the time. Mine gets switched power and works great. And Bill is right, a switch on the brake pedal would suffice to get that safety back.

Right, right, and right. But if a 1980 is all you can find go ahead and buy it. The difference is where the left turn indicator and seatbelt warning light connections are, and those are easy to change. Here's a writeup on that.

Welcome. I just happened to be on and saw your question. It was an easy answer.

Yes. As long as you have gauges you can install an instrument cluster with a tach and trip odometer. It is plug & play.

Nice patch panel.

I understand that my Bronco was manufactured in Michigan US

Welcome! Glad you joined. An 80 Bronco is a cool vehicle. Is it from the US or was it made elsewhere? And, we have a map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. Would you like to be on it?

Jim - I'm sure my writing is a sign of sloppiness. Some have suggested that I should have been a doctor. But having literally JUST met with my doctor, I think I'm too organized for that. After we talked a while he said "So, you don't have any complaints. So, why are you here?" I replied that "This is supposed to be a Medicare wellness check wherein you ask me what county I'm in and if I have extension cords running across the floor in the house." He basically did a Ok, back to the questions, with my answers in bold: - circuit 848, “speed control switch return” Do I simply run that wire to ground as Gary suggests in the Big Blue thread? Yes. It works. - circuit 307, “brake pressure input” My master cylinder does not have provisions for this “fire hazard” switch. Do I cap this wire off? In essence creating the “open when system has pressure” state necessary to allow use of the controls? No. The switch opens when there is pressure in the brake system, so the speed control needs 12v on that circuit save for when the brakes are applied. Otherwise it won't engage. So if you don't have the switch then you need to take that wire to power, but you will lose a safety. - circuit 306, “clutch pedal position switch”. I will no longer have this switch so I’m assuming that I need to provide a jumper, out of a couple female spade terminals and wire, at the connector (as the EVTM diagram implies) Yes, or as Jim suggested with a fuse. - circuit 679, “vehicular speed input”. I would very much like to retain the use of my stock VSS that is part of my speedometer cable (just under the master cylinder) It has two wires, the DG/W would be the signal and the BK should be ground. Can I just run the BK wire over to the firewall with a ring terminal and a self tapper? Or does it need to be tied into the harness somewhere? You could ground the Bk wire, but I made a "twisted pair" by twisting the two wires together for the run to the speed control. That helps to cancel out electrical noise in the signal. But in my case I was running the wires from the transfer case instead of by the master cylinder, so my wires were a whole lot longer and, therefore, more likely to pick up noise.

Not sure I understand, and how it looks… Is there a way to replace the bolt with a removable pin? Easier and faster than unbolting each time you need to tilt the passenger’s seat. My concern is about security. A sitting person wont retain the stock behind the seat, pushing forward in case of sudden braking. Or while going down a pitch trail in Moab. In my opinion, the seat should always be locked to not allow free tilting. I don't know if I have a picture of the passenger's seat, but on it there's a strap on the seatback pointing down where I've circled the latch in the pic below. The strap has matches up with a stub sticking up about where the piece I've circled on the seat bottom is. The stub has a threaded hole in it and the strap has a hole, so when the seatback is fully upright you can put the bolt through the strap and into the stub and the seat won't pivot. I see your point about the seat trying to tilt when on a STEEP downhill, like at Moab. I don't think it'll cause a problem, but it would be very easy to put the bolt in and prevent it from tilting if it does. And there's nothing behind the driver's seat bigger than a small flashlight, so not much damage will be done. As for a way to put in a pin, that would be nice. I've not figured out how to do that, but maybe someone will?

Thanks Gary, I don't have a vac pump, but I will get one. 20 years in field artillery & tanks, the hearing ain't worth a darn. If you get a vacuum pump you can connect it to the vacuum tee, circled in yellow below. Connect it in place of the hose coming in from the right in the picture and pump up vacuum. It should hold fairly well, although it'll leak some, and let you test the system. However, if it is leaking fast enough that you can't pump it up and get inside to find out where the problem is then take the connector apart that should be behind the glove box. It has a hose coming from the tee and then one going out to the outside recirc motor - the two lines you see where I said "Where vacuum goes into and exits the cab" in the pic. You can take the connector apart and put your vacuum pump on the one coming in and pump it up while you look for leaks. But bear in mind that the other hose will now be a leak when you go to Max since that's when the outside recirc door is to close.

I'd bet the "open port" isn't drilled. There are several things that stick out but aren't drilled, for whatever reason. If you have a vacuum pump, like a Mityvac, you can put it on the line going into the cab and see if it hold vacuum - reasonably. They aren't "tight" and do leak some. Or you could start the engine and feel back there to see if there's a vacuum leak. But if there isn't an extra vacuum line hanging back there then you don't have one off.

That would be cool!

Thanks, Shaun. I'll add those pics to the page.

The Ford ECU wants to know about the clutch and brake. Here's how I wired mine.

Cool! Does it have any numbers on it? Did it come in a box?

Right. The EVTM has a bit of an explanation: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ac-heater.html

I have my schematics in CAD on the shop computer, so can check out what I did, but not until tomorrow afternoon.

Jim - We have the '96 EVTM, but here's a link to the speed control bit: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/speed-control1.html I'll see if I can rethink what I did and answer the specific questions. But I can say that what I did worked and worked well. And the stock Bullnose VSS works perfectly with the later speed control.

Jim - I don't remember that conversation, although I believe you, so don't know the context. But if I said there were no 70A nor 100A alternators then I was badly mistaken. What I should have said was that the 40A alternator was standard and the 60A is, in my opinion, the only option for F & U-series trucks. However, I am finding very contradictory documentation from Ford. For instance, the 1986 Truck Fact Book says that the 40A is standard and the 60A is the only option on F-Series trucks & Broncos. It is Option 620 and was available by itself or as part of the air conditioning or trailer packages. But there is no mention of any other alternator for those trucks and no option number with which to order it. But there is in the E-series van line. However, the page below says that the 70A alternator was available in both the pickups and Broncos in '85, although the 100A wasn't available in either. On the other hand, the master parts catalog shows both the 70 & 100A alternators available for not only the E-Series but the pickups and Broncos. So, given what little I know I still believe that the Bullnose pickups and Broncos did not come with anything but 40 and 60A alternators since there was no way from the pricing sheets to order anything else. But I cannot prove that. In any event, it is obvious there were both 70 & 100A alternators out there, if that is what you mean. So yes, you could look up the numbers for them.

Jim won’t have a problem there as the issue arises only when you have both the front and rear axles driving. And that’s because the front tires take a different path thru turns so travel a different distance than the rear tires.

We have that whole section on the page at Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Front Suspension & then the Instructions tab followed by the 4WD tab. And there I see that the nut is PN 620469. But we don't have that in the parts list. However, going to the page at Documentation/Reference/Standard & Utility Parts Catalog I see that it is an M12 coarse thread Type 18, which does show to be a lock nut. If yours have stayed tight then they may be ok. Personally I'd get a Nyloc nut and put on there.