Gary Lewis

Thanks for the explanation, Shaun. I'll look for them next time I'm in Northern Tool.

Well said, Shaun!

NASA? Not hardly. That's serious stuff. As for a Pacer, I drove one once. Rent car. Rolled in the corners like a bowling ball. No way, Jose!!! Big Blue corners better than that.

Thanks, David. Got started on adjusting the pre-load on the lifters this afternoon. Talked to Scott to confirm my understanding that I want 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the bolt after all the slack is out of the valve train, and it doesn't matter if no shim is needed or if the .020" or .035" shims are needed. Yep, that's right. And, he said that this adjustment will help with the top end of the RPM range. With that I got started on the valve train and #1's and #5's valves adjusted. I'll document what I do for each of the cylinders tomorrow, but so far I've used no shims on two and the .020" shims on two. And, by the way, Scott recently said about my efforts on the valve train "You are making this too hard, Gary!" And today he asked "Are you an engineer?" Guilty!

Shaun - I've never been around those. Tell me about them? Why do you like them so much?

Ok, but where is it?

Steven - I'm not sure I know a source for the plug, but maybe I can at least get a part number. But where is that hole? And is it a factory hole?

Janey and I saw Ford vs Ferrari yesterday. LOVED IT!!!! If you haven't seen it I suggest you go while it is in the theaters. The sound is awesome and I doubt you have that nice of a system at home. Having said that, we also sat in the D-Box seats. Had never tried them before and I found them gimmicky and distracting, so I wouldn't bother with them.

I started to read his list of hard to find parts he was collecting to create a "clone" and I instantly thought of my F150. Haha. Yes, I instantly thought of Shaun.

Not bad. But I'd tell him the tool box has to be included for the $1800. It will probably leave holes in the bed if removed, so needs to be included.

Chris - I love it!!!! Well done, and can't wait for more pics.

Is the 6-speed shorter than the 10-speed? By the way, Blue has the 6-speed if you need measurements. (I assume it is the same as for on a Coyote.)

Gary? I'd like some others to get to enjoy a really nice truck, so don't want to keep them all to myself.

Speaking of the factory shop manual, it is a bit suspect in this sequence for installing the "hachet"/damper spacer and the damper: How do you apply Gasket Maker to the front of the key on the crankshaft after installing the damper spacer? And there's no "front seal rubbing surface" on the damper. So I applied grease to the spacer's front seal rubbing surface and then Permatex Super Form-A-Gasket to the front of the key as well as the keyway to the spacer and installed the spacer. Then I dobbed FAM on the front of the keyway and installed the damper. And, having PC'd the pointer and damper bolt, the whole thing came out looking like this, although the flash washed out the dark blue. And, note that the damper has the 1/4 turns already marked, so I'm ready to start installing push rods and shims.

The nut doesn't fall far from the tree. And I thought I was on a roll......

The Coyote w/a 10 speed would be good, but a 6 speed might be easier to find, and I can tell you that they work well.

Gary? Matthew 16:23

I forgot. As you've probably found, there are several references in the FSM section on the steering column of lubricating things, but most of them don't specify what to lube with. The one exception I can find is: So I'd just use the high-temp wheel bearing grease I'm using for most other things, like the balancer on the front of the 460 that I just put on.

Nice!

Yes, especially if this is going to be FOG.

That's the one that would have come with the tach. Not a bad price. Here's what the catalog says: 83/86 F—U100/350 "From 11/82" E3TZ 17255—H •Dual band 120 KMPH/85 MPH million kilometer odometer w/trip odometer

I first need to check if the box has a lot of play as I have not done that yet. I know all boxes have a high spot when centered to help hold it there I just need to look at it closer. Thing is I only remember when I drive it and have not done it much before the alignment. Dave ---- My experience has been that tightening the adjustment screw has been for naught. If you tighten it, even slightly, you can remove some of the slop in the box. But in doing so you will remove the feel and the ability for the steering to self-center. In other words, if you find slop it is time for a new box.

Yes, welcome! Looking forward to seeing pics as well as results of your tests. But before getting to the tests, a couple of things. First, how 'bout creating a signature? You could put your first name in it as well as info about your truck. In fact, the info in the title of this thread is a good start, and the fact that it has your location is even better. And, speaking of your location, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to put you on it - with your permission. On the testing, the voltage drop test is a good one. But another thing you might do if you have a current draw you can't find is to do the voltage drop test in conjunction with pulling fuses. When you find the fuse that is fueling the current draw you'll see the voltage drop reduce significantly. Good luck!

Chris - This is cool! I like flaresides, although I don't have one, and am anxious to see your build. And, with a list of parts that you need vs those you have maybe some of our "finders" will help you out. Also, I think that color looks good with the blackout treatment. Will you have the stripe made out of vinyl or painted on? How 'bout the engine and tranny? What are the plans? And 4wd?