Gary Lewis

A shot of ether would probably spin it over nicely, but it might stall as the ether runs out before the gas gets into the carb. However, it would also spin the pump rapidly several times and that might get gas there before the engine dies or at least keep the subsequent cranking to a minimum. What about pouring gas into the carb through the vent? I think there are two vents that go down to the bowl, but I'm not sure. If so, you could pour gas through one of them to fill up the bowl. Then there'd be enough gas to run the engine until the pump pulls gas from the tank. But be sure to put the air cleaner back on before trying to start the engine as there can be backfires. Or, if you have compressed air handy, you could pressurize the tank via the fill neck to get gas to, and maybe past, the pump. But, you don't want much pressure or you could damage something. I used that method once on a truck where the pump didn't want to pull gas and it worked. I dialed the regulator down to 10 PSI, wrapped a shop towel around the air nozzle, and put that into the tank and pulled the trigger. I felt the pressure come up and some gurgling, and after about 10 seconds or so I tried the engine and it started right up. I know there are lots of "buts" in that approach, like "what about the vent" and "aren't there check valves in the pump". However it worked for me - the one time I tried it.

That's quite funny. I've given guys links to discussions on forums several times and have gotten pretty quick responses. Seeing that their advert is being discussed, in a negative light, in a forum open to the world seems to get their attention.

According to Ford's Master Parts Catalog (Documentation/Fuel Systems/Fuel System Part #'s/Fuel Tank Selector Valve), which I've copied in below, your truck should take E3TZ 9189-D, which is a 3-port valve. That was used with engines having mechanical fuel pumps. Does yours have a mechanical pump? If so then you should have one hose from each tank to the valve, and one hose from the valve to the pump.

Good job!

Give him a link to this thread in feedback.

And, I did. The search function on here works pretty well. It is 567, as described here. What is weird is that Amazon lists: 567 for $68.39 and 250ml 56747 for $25.99 and 2.75 ounces I'm guessing that the difference is just in the amount, with 2.75 fl ounces being 81.3 ml, so I'll order the smaller one and find out.

Don't sweat it, Jim. I'll find it.

Finding the sealant is getting confusing and complex. Amazon is the confusing part, and Henkel is the complex part. If you get a chance to check the container it might help. But is your white? Paste? Sealant? Thread sealer?

All the PDB's I've seen have the megafuse on the outside on two studs. One of the studs is also the buss into the PDB.

She says "Thank you!" Yes, she's wonderful. The love of my life, my soul mate. And she does put up with a LOT.

ow about using a PDB with fuses and stick fuses in with higher ratings than the fusible links and then connect the links to the wires from those fuses? No need for a terminal block? (Just thinking....) You've said "PST" several times, but is this the stuff? Loctite 56747 PST

Got it and responded. Not much will be happening on the truck today as it is Janey's birthday. So we are CELEBRATING! Shopping, movie, dinner, etc!

Nice truck. Not a bad price at all.

I agree with Jim. But I don't know for sure about the boxes having the manufacturers name.

Yes, nice! Engine bay is clean, the interior looks good, the body looks straight. Really good example and a good starting point.

I understand on the anti-seize. You don't have to sell me. Which reminds me, I got the stainless bolts for the water pump yesterday, but what did you say you coat them with? Thread sealer or anti-seize? As for the PDB/relay box, I think that's a good idea. However, there are larger boxes that not only have the relays and megafuse, but big fuses that can take the place of the fuseble links. As said to The Scatch, that's my plan for both BB awa Dad's truck. Just have to work out what size fuse to use for fuseble link replacement.

I forgot that, Jim. Thanks. And good explanation.

I will get a video, for sure.

I have been running the stock paper style, but Big Blue came with the reusable one so that's what I ran. Not sure what I'll run with EFI though. Some say the K&N flows much better, but others say the oil gets on the MAF sensor. Dunno.

Excellent! I plan to check them out for my trucks as well. No way will I accept the market value for them. Good luck on the brakes.

That should be it.

Looks like a good resource.

You should be good. Have fun!

I missed it. But, now that you mention it I can see it. Well done!

If your wiring is original then the wire will already be hooked up. You can see it in the diagram below coming off the right side of the coil: