Gary Lewis

I don't think a simple resistor or shunt can fix that problem. The issue apparently is that the ignition system is presenting two pulses per cylinder firing to the tach. Or what looks to the tach like two pulses. Perhaps it is actually firing the plugs twice? I'd call the manufacturer again and ask how to solve that problem. If they don't know, then all I can think of is taking a look at the waveform being presented to the tach and seeing if there are spikes that can be filtered out. Or, use a 555 timer to give one pulse per cylinder firing regardless of how many pulses the ignition gives. This spreadsheet tells me that if we make the pulse width one millisecond wide and then prevent the timer from firing again for 1 millisecond that the circuit would work to clean up the input spikes. But, the question becomes how far apart the two pulses are. If they are further apart than 2 ms then you'd still get the two pulses through. So, I'd start with the manufacturer 'cause to design a circuit is going to require a 'scope trace to know if it is even going to work. And/or go online and Google to see if other are having that problem and, if so, how they solved it.

That's interesting Gary! I'm no ZF5 expert, so I should probably keep my pie hole shut...lol, but I didn't think they were available in anything lighter than an F250. As you know, I have the lighter duty Mazda M5OD in my 1984. It came out of a 1991 Light Duty F250 with a 302. I don't know where the cut off was, but according to your parts list above, the ZF5 only went behind the 4.9 and 5.8 (only talking SBF patterns here)....which makes perfect sense since the F250 my Mazda tranny came out of had a 302. Your list also points out why that transmission just happened to have the correct speedo cable drive gear for my 3.08 rear diff. In any case, I learned something new then. I didn't realize that an F150 could be had with a ZF5 trans behind either a 4.9 or 5.8. I don't want to say that they're rare, but I have honestly never seen a 4x2 F150 with a 5.8 and a 5spd trans, and all of the 4x2 300/6 5spd F150's I have seen all had the lighter duty Mazda 5spd like mine. I do like learning new stuff! In any case, good luck Dave! Just keep the searches to 1988-1991 and you'll be in the correct year range for cable speedo. By '88 buyers were wanting overdriven transmissions and in that year the M5OD was introduced, as you can see on the Application tab of the Documentation/Driveline/Driveshafts page. (Go to Pg 64 of that document for the first mention of Mazda. And note that M5OD to Ford means a Manual transmission of 5 speeds with the top being OD. I say that because the ZF5 is also called an M5OD.) But the Mazda transmission apparently didn't have the torque rating to handle the "big" engines, so they used the ZF5 on engines from the 351W and larger. But, the plot thickens as the 4.9L was available with both the Mazda and the ZF tranny. I'm suspecting that what we are dealing with there is explained by the chart below from the transmission application tab as well as the engine availability in the various vehicles. For instance, I don't think the 302 was available in the F250HD or heavier. But, that doesn't work with the driveshaft chart showing the ZF was available in F150's and Broncos. So I'm confused.

It is that easy. But, when I got Dad's truck the front bearing was drilled and he'd lubed it. Solved the problem.

Dave, I'm pretty sure that you'll need a transmission between 1988-1991. With the new body styling in 1992 came an electronic speedometer. It might fit, but it would be 8-lug, 3/4 ton or 1 ton... You'll want the whole pedal assembly from a Bullnose with hydraulic clutch. The whole thing just swaps right in place...no problem. It would be easier than trying to swap just the clutch bar in there I would think. Cory - I think the ZF did come in lighter duty trucks than the F250's from 1989 on, as shown below:

I cant see the attachments on this computer, is there a part number for this steering wheel? Two upgrades I want are tilt wheel and a thicker steering wheel. I don't know the answer to that question. The price list calls it "Steering wheel, soft-wrapped w/woodtone applique" but doesn't give the part number. And, I didn't have steering wheel part numbers included in the steering column part number listing, but I do have now. And here they are, but I'm not sure which one it is:

According to our Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/Manual Transmission Applications page the ZF5 started being used in ‘89. And from what I’ve seen the frames were the same so the suspension should swap. As for the pedal, I’ve not tried but it might work in the Bullnose bracket. Be worth a try, and if not you’d still have everything else and we can find the right pedal.

The 1986 pricing guide shows the soft-wrapped steering wheel as standard for the XLT: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-rapid-spec-pricing.html And Big Blue has one.

Contact the seller to ask if it came from a fixed or tilt column. W/o the suffix you can't tell unless you measure.

In part numbers a change of anything in them can mean it is a completely different part. But in this case I think a non-tilt shroud can be shortened to function on a tilt column. I haven't done it, but have looked at it and it looks doable.

Thanks to Scott/kramttocs we have several new pages: Documenation/Literature/Miscellaneous Literature/DeeZee: 1986 DeeZee Catalog Cab Organizer Brochure Lited Grille Instructions Lited Running Board Instructions Side Box Board Instructions

Good to know. I'm partial to folks in Kansas, my home state. I've added them to Bullnose Enthusiasts/Resources/Suspension & Steering. See what you think and let me know, please. Also, you might give them a link to your thread as well as the resource page where they are listed. In fact, they can join if they'd like.

Amen to the above. The hardest job I have is know which is the Saturday ahead of the one Sunday.

So, what was wrong with the headlight? And, I fully agree that the factory wiring was just barely adequate - when new. And it isn't new, as witnessed by the convolute. So relays are a big improvement, both in lighting and in safety. As for the starter relay, what is the current rating of your new one? Last, it REALLY feels good to get things cleaned up with neat, orderly runs. The fuse link runs just drive me up the wall! Another reason I want to take them out and run to the PDC and fuses.

As I think about it, Steve83 posted something about this question as well. Perhaps a search for it?

I've asked our resident tire balancer, Steven Fox aka FoxFordsomethingorother, to respond to this. But, he's busy balancing tires so it may be a while.

Yes, foam is more. But closed-cell foam has 3x the insulation value of fiberglass and no infiltration.

Jim - Looks really good.

Oh, I misunderstood. The catalog shows that E7TZ 17A553-A is for 1987 and later trucks, as shown below. And I have no way of knowing what the differences are. Maybe someone else does. 87/ F—U150/350 — w/intermittent wipers E7TZ 17A553-A *SW-1572-A-#E7TB 17A553-CA

The insulation will make a huge difference. I had fiberglass blown in, which stops infiltration much better than batts. But foam is even better.

The information shown below is on this page: Documentation/Electrical/Windshield Wipers and on the Part Numbers tab. Note that only E0TZ 17A553-B is for intermittent wipers.

We didn’t feel the brakes on WelderScott’s truck dragging initially, but they apparently were as they eventually locked up. However, it might have been the rears, which self-energize. So if they drag any they’ll heat up, expand, drag more, and finally lock up. But rolling back would tend to unlock them

Cool! You are really going to like the new floor. 👍

Congrat’s, Matthew!!!! Well done!!!

I hear an inverter is the way to go. 😉