Gary Lewis

If Horsepower = (Torque x RPM) / 5,252 then Torque = (Horsepower x 5252)/RPM. My math says (16,000 x 5252)/75 = 1,120,427 lb-ft.

Bill - Please keep us posted. Many of us will keep you in our prayers. As for the steam engine, that's cool. What RPM did it run at and what kind of power did it produce? Obviously a LOT.

What painkillers are you on for the knee?

Ok, I get the picture. So maybe we don’t need the picture? 😳

The Conoco joke is that a guy from a pumping station on a pipeline called in and said "Boss, we have a problem." The boss said "There are no problems, there are just opportunities for improvement. Please use that terminology when you call me" To which the pumper said "Boss, we have a major opportunity for improvement. The pipe split and we are pumping lube all over the place!" So "opportunity for improvement" is Conoco-speak for "We have a PROBLEM!" As for the 7 P's, are they "preparation, preparation, preparation, preparation, preparation, preparation, & preparation"? And a spray primer would sure make it easier. So that stuff sticks well?

And that's a good one. Thanks!

Good point, Jim. I'll try to remember that, but doubt I will so please remind me if I forget.

We are anxious to follow the progress and ready to help. Let's go!

That's the plan. Not sure I even have the POR-15. So I'll need to check out what I have and get what's needed. Then I'll have to scuff the goody out of that platform to get the old paint off and give the POR something to hold onto. Lotsa work.

Me? Concour points? They start with each vehicle at 100 and then take away for non-stock parts. My guess is Big Blue's score would be -100. Seriously though, I just want a paint that "disappears" in the overall scheme. So flat is out as it wasn't used and would look odd. Obviously high-gloss is out, both because it wasn't used for these kinds of things as well as it points out all the flaws, and there are plenty. So a satin or matte is about right as I don't remember seeing eggshell in exterior paints. I know this is for interior house paints, but Kilz says these are the finishes, in order of decreasing sheen: • High Gloss: A highly reflective, glass-like finish that’s most durable and easiest to clean. • Semi-Gloss: A sleek and luminous finish that is mildew, moisture, and wear resistant. • Satin: A pearl-like finish that’s easy to clean and has moderate durability. • Eggshell: A soft, velvety finish that covers imperfections while offering some durability. • Matte: A low-luster finish that’s less durable, but easy to clean, touches up well, and hides minor surface imperfections. • Flat: A non-reflective finish that touches up well and can hide minor surface imperfections.

Yes, it'll not be gloss. But I'm not sure exactly which level of gloss I'll use as I have some paint that I'll use if there's enough of it.

Aren't there slots to let you slide the bracket to adjust for that?

Glad you found it and got it fixed/replaced. Just couldn't imagine an oil filter doing that, but that's a lot of wear on a dizzy!

Thanks! I am going to paint the platform black, although I'm not sure it'll be "matte black". My usual approach is to use POR-15 and while it is tacky coat it with the top coat. That lets the top coat bond with the POR and protects the POR from UV, which turns it white. I don't know if you've seen how I made it, but you can read about it here: Big Blue's Seat Platform. Pretty simple really, just an angle iron piece and bench seat legs.

I hope it has all its bolts. I doubt an iPhone would survive that fall.

Thanks. That might work.

Yes, I think the color is great. I'm very happy with it.

Is this what you are talking about?

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. Nice trucks, and nice shop. I do think I've seen them on FB.

Got the seat bolted in today, but there's still a lot of work to do in order to get them the way I want them. Anyway, here they are bolted in:For instance, the "latch" for the driver's seat, which I installed on the passenger's side, hits inverter. And I've come to realize that with the tab on the passenger's seat I can't change the angle of the seatback very much as there's not much room to slot it. Given that I think I'll put the driver's seat on the driver's side and vice versa and lock down the passenger's seatback. And I'm going to have to figure out how to put stops in so the passenger's seat isn't slammed back into the inverter. But I think I'll be able to do that by placing a bolt in the track at just the right spot.Here are the two latches side by side:

Yippee!!!! That is such a GOOD feeling! Well done!

That would be wonderful! Go for it!

Yes, I know that feeling, and the LOL is 'cause someone was trying to talk to you, not that you had spatter in your ear. Yes, spatter gets everywhere, much like media when blasting outside - which I hope to never do again. In fact, I "gave" my outside blaster to my brother and said "I'll know where it is if I ever need to use it again." But spatter tends to be a bit more painful than a grain or two of media. So it is best to plug all orifices and wear protective clothing. But that does remind me of using a cutting torch on my '58 Chevy. Felt strong hands on me and discovered Dad was pulling me out of the car as I'd caught it on fire. He'd been yelling and I couldn't hear him, so out I came.

Blows my mind that he's pouring 30# of molten aluminum wearing loafers! 🤯 If you watch his earlier videos he does it all with hot wire and a handheld router, so the CAD/CAM is just to expedite making the form. He still had to have drawings to make the patterns and templates he used back then. I missed the loafers! The guy is really talented, but pouring molten liquid in loafers isn't a good idea. I won't even weld without making sure I have boots and cotton socks on. Learned the hard way that having a piece of molten metal go through a Nylon sock and stick to your foot is not conducive to good welds. Can't imagine what trouble you'd be in if you were pouring metal instead of welding.

That sure makes it look like you can keep the cooler. And, it is a cool video.