Gary Lewis

I hadn’t considered it, Jim. But that is a good idea. I can edit the catalog to at least pull snippets out of it and use in our documentation. 👍

Yes, even an empty tank is a pain to drop. But good job with the float. Does the new/old one have an obvious hole?

I agree, Frank. The lights will be much better behind the bumper. Jim - I first thought you have a leaking vacuum switch, but if you got a full turn on the hose clamp that's probably it. By the way, nice valve covers.

I've added another page: Documentation/Electrical/Connectors & Terminals. But it needs a lot of help from y'all, so I've started a new thread asking some questions: New Page On Terminals & Connectors - Need Help, Please.

I've created a new page: Documentation/Electrical/Terminals & Connectors. But, it is far from being done and I need your help. First, the Illustrations tab and the Terminals tab are in jpg format. Yes, they look larger on your screen, but there's little I can do with them other than give you the info that's in them. But the Connectors tab has a pdf, which allows me a lot more creativity. For instance, I can edit the file in the background by adding text or links to it and it'll show up. And my hope is that as we figure out what we have you can tell me what is what and I can capture it in the file. Does that make sense? Second, as I've explained on the Connectors tab, it appears that Ford used the term "sleeves" for the plastic parts of what we call "connectors". Does you agree? Last, Ford seems to use the terms "connectors" and "terminals" for the metal pieces that go in the sleeves. But that is confusing, and may be wrong. What are your thoughts?

What a wonderful present - your truck running well. 👍 And, such nice scenery to view while checking the truck out. Nice!

Gary, yes on to other tasks... Right now I'm painting the metal bars of my new-to-me sliding rear window! Going with semi-gloss black in hopes that it looks as close to original as possible. I'm between coats right now, but if all goes well I'll try to get the SRW all reassembled tomorrow. I painted some test pieces and the semi-gloss seems to look pretty good. Not too bright, and not too dull. What did you decide on tinting?

So I got the old Bull out for a Christmas Day shakedown run! It was -3C out..or about 26F, but the roads were nice and dry. I made one final little tweak of the idle mix screws, and it's running MUCH better now! The big difference is between 1500-2000 RPM where it never really ran well previously. I can now cruise along at 1500 RPM in 4th gear and accelerate smoothly to 2000, which was never the case before. The AFR seems to be really good as well. Cruising along at light throttle at 2000 RPM, the gauge is reading 14.5-14.7 pretty consistently. I'm a happy guy today. Merry Christmas guys, and thank for all the assistance in getting the old Bull running better;). Congrat’s!!! Yes, another layer of the onion. Time for a celebration and then turn to another aspect of the truck? And Merry Christmas!!!

Like shops, there is no such thing as too big of an oven. Mine is 3’x3’x6’ and it handles just about everything.

The Cherokee was mostly driven by my (at the time) 17 year old son. One night I was replacing a U-joint on the Cherokee so he took my wife's Ford Escape to work. When he got home he said that he thought the Escapes headlights must have been on high beam, but once he figured out how to switch them found that they were on low. So was there anything we could do about his headlights? I drove it at night to see what they were like, and it seemed like it was just running the parking lights So yes, it was a dramatic improvement! It did burn out some headlights after that. I put new lights in it when I did the relays because the old ones were a little corroded on the terminals (which didn't help the light output either I'm sure) and both of the new bulbs burned out within a year. But both of the replacements I got when those went were still going strong about 4 years later when we traded the Cherokee in. I'm sure the higher voltage was a factor in the short life of the first set, but I think poor quality bulbs was also likely a factor. If I remember right Sylvania had a class-action against them for the short life of their SilverStar headlights. I wonder if you had a pair of them?

Merry Christmas!!!!!

Yes, I use the auto-reset circuit breakers. But I wouldn’t worry about the tail and marker lights. The switch can easily handle them with the headlights off of it.

The '85 and later tanks have the larger opening and take the sender or sender/pump combo with the larger flange. Any sender or sender/pump combo for a Bullnose truck will work with a Bullnose gauge. Or did I misunderstand?

Makes far, far more sense.

Wired per my latest diagram, which has the low beams on with the highs? Interesting.

Good to know, Steve. Thanks. 👍

Your call on where. It is a project, but not everyone looks there. As for what you did, I just want to see how you did it as I want to put some lights in Big Blue’s Warn bumper, and it isn’t the same as the regular Bullnose bumper. So maybe how you did it will inspire me.

Yep, Jim is right. The wiring and switch were marginal when new, and are now far from new. So installing a relay harness is strongly encouraged. And not only does it take the load off the wiring and switch, it delivers higher voltage to the headlights so they are brighter. And to answer your question, it is something you should do. But you can buy a headlight harness from LMC, Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard, etc so you don’t have to make one.

I think we need to document this with some pics and examples. I’ve not looked at those connectors closely enough to know what is possible.

I didn’t realize they put the 460 in a Bronco from the factory. But it is a nice truck.

Scott - I don't have the 1980 EVTM, but here's a page from the 1981 version. Is this what yours shows? This one shows that the same circuit that pulls the relay in also powers the digital clock and 4wd indicator. But that's just pulling the relay in to parallel the batteries - they aren't powered by the aux battery.

Frank - Glad you got it fixed, and especially that easily. Jim - Can't wait to see how you did it. Glad it is working out. On the backup lights, good job posting that because that's the first thing I thought of when reading Frank's post.

Well that stinks. So the EFI fuel tank would fit but the sender unit wont work with the older dash gauge. Using the original '82 tank requires two bungs to be added - and going with a EFI style tank would require some type of mod to the fuel sender unit. There is no simple solution - either tank style requires some sort of modification. BTW, the MSD Atomic TBI kit I bought recommends that the fuel pump be installed "in the tank" - but says if that is not possible then mount it as low and close to the tank as possible. That is why I had the bung welded to the back/bottom of tank. I would have preferred an in-tank solution. There are several in-tank EFI fuel pumps that include senders that work with the Bullnose gauges. You can see them below from the Documentation/Fuel Systems/Fuel Systems Part Numbers/Senders & Pumps page. But they usually require frame-mounted reservoirs and valves. Do you have two tanks?

Are you going to wire in 220 volts for a welder? I did, and I also wired the 110v for a 20 amp outlet, not the standard 15 amp ones. More expensive but that's what the 110v welders use.

See the very bottom of the Posting Pics tab here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/forum-faqs.html. Or, edit the file with an editor and save it. Anyway, I’m envious of you having the truck that far along. 👍