Gary Lewis

Not that it's a big deal, but there were no '98 F-350s or F-250HDs . After the '97 model year with the old body style F250HD/350 Ford jumped to the '99 model year SuperDuty. (I think there were new body style F-250s (not HD) in '98 like there were in '97. I think it was '99 when they rebadged the standard F-250 as an F-150s to avoid the confusion of having two F-250s of the same model year that shared essentially nothing in common.) That's interesting. I'd wondered where the cutoff was. So let me say it in my own words to see if I understand: As of 1998 the HD F250's and all F350's ceased to exist, and in 1999 they became SuperDuty trucks. And also that year the oddball LD F250 became an F150. But even that confuses me. Let me try again: F150's have been built right through the decades LD F250's were built through 1998, but in 1999 that GVWR became F150's so the LD F250 ceased to exist in '99 HD F250's and 350's ceased to exist at the end of '97. But in '99 that range of GVWR's came out as SuperDuty trucks Does that capture it?

Pretty! 80/86 F—U100/350 E1TZ 17255—B w/o trip odometer-85 MPH/130 KMPH

Welcome to the forum, Aretelio! Nice looking truck. I hope you are going to introduce yourself in the New Members Start Here folder, as there are guidelines there which we ask every member to abide by. So please go there, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread in that folder to introduce yourself. Welcome!

Yes, that should be for an XLS.

82/86 F-U100/350 - - heater E2TZ 18527-A MM-410 The implications of that "heater" is that it isn't for the integral A/C units.

While the advert says it fits "AOD C4 C5 C6", the master parts catalog only lists it for the AOD.

Yep - the ones I have for Big Blue are vinyl. Don't remember what they came off of, but I do know that only the high-end trucks, like Lariats, got the cloth.

I believe Dave is the best one to answer the firewall question. But I think his answer will be that you cannot just cut the extra hole, that there are overlaps that would cause problems. I'd suggest a cab swap instead. And I am pretty sure you can paint the dash to match. In fact, I'm planning on that for Dad's truck as the original dash is cracked. As for the brackets, lines, etc, I think that is doable. And the pump/compressor is available as a replacement.

I appears that my plans to not use that wire are good, although not predicated on the fire danger. But I'm curious to see which version of the repair this is, so will check it out - when I can. (The neighbor is coming over with his "bed bar" to get the electrical part of it done, so I don't know if it'll be today.

Interesting! I haven't investigated it yet, but there's a fuse holder integrated into it and something said on that label 'bout a non-repairable fuse. I wonder if that was from a recall. But I plan to use the stock Bullnose cruise system, so probably won't use that anyway.

It has been some time, but it is happening finally. I'm mapping through what wires need to be used, which one goes where, etc. Gonna get interesting. Thanks again!

83/ E-F250/350,F(Super Duty) 1 1 E3TZ 6A366-A PLATE (FLYWHEEL REINFORCING)- 12 9/16" O.D. - - A/T

Also, the close-ratio T19 with a 4.02 first was only available for the diesel. But I think you could swap the gearset into a small-block version. In fact, I think that's what Jonathan did?

Don't miss that the later visors with the inboard clips will work.

Now I understand. Thanks!

Sorry about the flu! But glad the visor bars work. Looks like that is a good solution.

You aren't even done with the shop and you are selling it? But, I do understand. Holly has heart problems? Sorry to see that. As for AR or MO, the SW corner of MO seems to get a lot more bad weather than we do. There just seems to be something about that area that gets hit more often. So, while I like Joplin and Springfield, I'd check out the weather before moving there. Anyway, look forward to having you closer!

Jim - Maybe you can describe a Cheetah a bit better? I don't understand what it is. On a new topic, today I got started on the electrical part of Big Blue's transformation. This has been worrying me for quite some time, but I think I'm starting to get my head around it. In the pic below is the wiring harness(s) I got from Mark/Dyn Blin, which was from a CA-spec 1996 F250 with a 460 and, therefore, EEC-V. And your vantage point is as if you are standing on top of the cab looking into the engine compartment. The wiring to the ECU is cut, but that's no biggee as I may not put the computer in the stock location and would, therefore, have to lengthen the wires. But otherwise it is seemingly all there. My efforts so far have been to ID each of the terminals to understand what I have. I'm not yet done with that but probably have 90% of them figured out, but I'll probably have to ask y'all about some of them. Anyway, the plans are to fully understand what I have and then start pulling out what, if any, I don't need. For instance, the big bulkhead connector that would go into the cab won't be used as such since the Bullnose trucks don't have all of the electronics that supports. But, I'll need some of the wires as somewhere in there are the ones for the OBD-II data link connector as well as the Check Engine light and probably some other necessary functions. Plus, some of those wires are power from the various fuses, and I may be able to use them to replace the fusible links. Having said that, maybe that's making things too complex. I discovered that this harness utilizes a standard fender-mounted starter relay. On the right side in the pic is a large ring terminal that goes to the battery side of the relay in conjunction with the output line from the alternator. The one in the pic has two short fuselinks to the large yellow wire that runs across the radiator support to the power distribution box where it ends on a stud that powers the whole of the PDB. But there's no megafuse. Just the two fuselinks on that yellow wire and a fuse link on the end of the alternator's charge cable where it hits the starter relay. So, I could use a standard starter relay and drop the Bullnose fuselinks onto it. That would simplify things significantly from what I'd planned and make doing this conversion much more straightforward. Also, I can come off the PDB's power stud with a wire to the auxiliary battery, but take it through the smart battery isolator. Maybe this won't be as tough as I thought?

No, I didn't get your email re your address. (By the way, did you check out the address I used? ) As for your company kicking off in the US, that would be cool! I could mail the tracing to where you'll be. On making the pdf, you'd have to trace it by hand or find someone that has a really big printer. I think that's a last resort.

Mark - I'm "playing" with a wiring harness with a label I put on it that says "From Mark - 1996 CA-spec 460". So I can't be bothered to climb the microfiche tower. Seriously though, why won't this work? From Documentation/HVAC/HVAC Systems:

Michael - Several things. First, I checked on mailing you the tracing, and the guesstimate is $50 to this address: Thought that might be a safe place. And that's via the US Postal Service, and other forms of transport could go to $180. So, that seems to be a bit steep. However, if you want I can send it to you if you'll give me an address. Or, since the material I used has 1" squares on it, I might be able to convert it to a pdf by plotting it with my CAD software. As for your drawing and dimensions, I've drawn on my headliner backing, as shown below, and got these dimensions: a: 46 1/2" b: 47 3/8" c: 1 1/4" d: 4 3/4" e: 7 7/8" to outside edge, not just to inside of the notch f: 1 1/2" g: 4" h: 4 5/8" i: 21 1/8" but the dome light opening is below the "b" line on a regular cab headliner j: 5/8" Hope that helps, but let me know what more I can do, like mailing the tracing or trying to digitize it.

I don't have an answer either. Haven't gotten that far on Big Blue, and heretofore I've used the cable that was on it, but do plan to put new ones on that I make. So hope you solve this one.

It is the early Ford Blue and is the Duplicolor ceramic engine paint. I would love to have powder coated everything, but that wasn't in the budget. The paint lays down really well, but is definitely not as tough as it should be for the application. We'll see how it holds up over time. I'm hoping it cures a bit better after going through a heat cycle or two once I get it started up, but we'll see. I am trying to be extra careful as I put stuff together. Thank you all for the kind words. I had gone back and forth on the rail, but couldn't leave it bare with everything else being painted and I have a hard time keeping it simple and spraying everything one color. I am starting to find some hardware that has gone missing.... so that is slowing things a bit here and there, but not too bad. Hopefully start getting the harness laid back over the motor this weekend, replacing wire loom, and start getting the exhaust hung. I thought that was the early Ford blue. I used the darker blue, but have done the lighter one as well. I debated what to do on the fuel rails for Big Blue, and wound up powder coating them 'cause they were starting to rust and new ones were expensive. But even powder can fail on engines, so we'll see how they hold up. Both of us will have to be careful.

I lived in Florida for a year and this was referred to as "liquid" sunshine!!! I"ll buy that! I don't seem to have a dark cloud over my head. In fact, today there's not a cloud in the sky in Okiehoma. But when in FL it rains.

Someone needs to 3D print them.