Gary Lewis

Shaun - You are going to really make progress! Can't wait!

Edit: Right...I just read that you said you wouldn't change them. I was thinking that after the fact...I can just keep the vents closed if need be when using the AC. I guess that's no big deal. Saves me some hassle. And, when it isn't hot and you don't need the A/C, which may be most of the summer up there, you can just open the vents in the kick panels and have fresh air.

Yes, there are two different kick panels - those for the A/C trucks and those w/o A/C. See the page here: Documentation/Interior/Kick Panels. But I like the non-A/C kick panels and if I had them I sure wouldn't change when installing A/C.

Bob - Another good point regarding the clutch switch. You'se guys make a good point to have a bypass push button to allow starting with the clutch in. Thanks. (And, there's that hand throttle nudge again. But I'm going to see if the PTO function works first, and if not I'll install the hand throttle. ) Now, for what I did today - more connector identification on the harnesses. I'm just about done, but have discovered that some of the connectors, like the EGR solenoid and the secondary air injection solenoid, have a factory jumper in them. I have almost all of the connectors ID'd and need to figure out the last few, document them, and then move on. Which leads me to a question for y'all. Do you agree with this approach? This is what I have in my embedded document. While this may be the slowest-possible approach, at least it will give me the assurance that I know what is needed and what is not needed. Thoughts?

Joe - Welcome! Glad you joined. Several things before we get into your truck. First, where are you located? Maybe someone on here is close to you and could help? And, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map on the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a town. Second, so we remember you and your truck's details, how 'bout creating a signature. Click on your name on the left above your avatar, click on Account Settings, and then Edit Your Signature. Your name would be good as we like to call people by their first names. And, then many of the details you shared on your truck. Now, for your truck. We can troubleshoot here, but the main section is really the better place to do that. You can copy your post and start a new thread there if you'd like, and that will probably get more attention than in the New Members section. If you have no power anywhere then you probably forgot one of the fuselinks when you re-attached the cables to the starter relay. In the upper right of the illustration below you'll see the fuselinks, which are supposed to go on the battery side of the relay. And without them there you won't have power and can't crank the engine.

Interesting! Didn't know there is a QC4. Did some searching and found this at AnandTech: That's good to know. However, I'd really like to have an integrated charging port rather than one that plugs into a cigar socket. One reason is that I am hoping to close up the "ash tray" as Dave suggested. But we shall see. My thinking on the latter is to make a bracket as shown by the black lines, below. Cut the ash tray cover along the red line and then pivot it with arms that come off the bracket. That should leave enough room for a switch, a USB port, and an AC outlet.

This is just to let you know of a couple of sources for literature on our trucks. The other day David found a copy of the book TOD and SROD Four-Speed Manual Transmissions at AbeBooks. I ordered it and will scan it and host it when it comes in. But I looked through Abe's listing of Ford books and realized that he's just a central point for many used book stores across the US. He had a listing for what appeared to be a piece of the MPC and I wanted to find out more about it, so called the store that has it - Crossroad Books. Turned out that it really is just a few sections of the MPC, so I'm not interested. However, the gentleman said he might actually have a complete MPC, so we started talking about what I'm looking for and he said he has ~60 boxes of books that aren't yet listed in their catalog. So he'll go through them and shoot me an email about what he has. But then he asked if I'd perused their catalog and I confessed that I hadn't. So I did. Wow! He has a LOT of Ford stuff. I went through the 1980 - 86 stuff and ordered a 1982 Bronco brochure and a 1984 EEC-III Test Manual. But if you are in the market for factory shop manuals, EVTM's, etc you might want to take a look. In the search results things are in chronological order and the 1980 stuff starts on Page 5.

Jeremy - Pulling it is a simple task. But replacing it isn't unless you take care to start with. Assuming that the timing is set correctly at present, mark where the body hits the block as well as where the rotor points to the housing. As you pull the distributor up the rotor will rotate because the gear is angled, so you have to mark before you pull. Then, if it were me, I'd mark where the rotor points as the distributor comes out since that is your starting point going back in. So, when going back in you want to end up with the body/block marks matching and the rotor pointing at the same point on the housing. And when you reach down with a long extension and a 5/16", I think, socket to turn the oil pump, you want to make SURE that nothing falls off. So tape the socket to the extension. I think, with strong emphasis on think, that you want to rotate the oil pump counter-clockwise. But I'm not sure of that. And you want to go fairly slowly. It'll take a while to get the oil flowing, and when it finally does you'll know it as the drill or driver will bog down.

As for the oil leak I think (hope) it is from the transmission that I want to replace. The wife just left so I can pull the unit out to put the Velcro on it. Other wise I would need to move my DD to get the truck out for the needed room. Dave ---- Is the garage warm enough to get the Velcro to stick? On the tranny, what's the latest plan, Stan? I got lost.

I saw a 304 in a Jeep that was that color just the other day. Was in to get my D60 and that's what they were working on. They'd done a complete rebuild but ran into a problem finding a flywheel. Took months, but they finally found one. I had to ask about the odd piping on the exhaust manifolds. Sure enough, it was air injection. They'd left it 'cause they were sure the manifolds would crack if they did anything, and they don't think they can find any more, and they've already tried to find headers - to no avail.

That sounds like a Bill answer LOL Good to hear you kind of talked to him. He has been MIA over you know where and we are worried as we have not heard from him. Dave ---- I'd asked how he is doing in my original email, but unless there's some way to interpret "Yes" as being an answer to "How are you doing", he didn't say. So I just tried to call him, but no answer. Now I've responded via email asking the question again. We shall see.

A word on being able to crank the motor with out pushing in the clutch like in the old days. Out in the no mans land you may come up to a point to need to crank the truck to move it like in a water soak stall out to get it out of the water. Would you get out in the middle of a river / stream to bypass the switch to crank it out so you can work on it? Just something to think about. Dave ---- Interesting! You are saying that if it stalls out in a stream it would be nice to be able to put it in low range, leave the clutch engaged, and just crank it out of the stream? Hmmmm.... Wouldn't have thought of that. I had a guy almost run one of my trucks through the garage door 'cause he didn't realize it would crank in gear w/the clutch out. And I can imagine others doing the same. So I think I want to err on the side of safety. But, it would be easy to bypass the switch with a pushbutton that would let it crank with the clutch engaged.

Dave - Thanks. But I have a wide variety of devices, and while I could take all of the 110v chargers and plug them into the inverter, I'm thinking that it would be nice to have heavy-duty charging available right in front of you. Dane - I think your switch idea is the best one. It would be easy to wire a switch in right there in the "ash tray", although I'd like to come up with something a bit fancier than having an unused tray there. Perhaps an aluminum panel that would have the USB port, a switch for it, and an AC outlet? I'm researching, while drinking coffee and watching it snow! This one is rated at 36 watts, which is twice what the one above has. So I'm thinking it is a pretty good one, but perhaps we'll find something a bit stronger 'twixt now and when I need it.

Ok, time for an update. This page from Belkin does a good job of explaining the Power Delivery charging technology. And Wikipedia explains QC3.0. From those I think I understand: Power Delivery = USB-C. So to use this technology you'll have to have a USB-C to whatever cable. For a reasonably late model iPhone that would be USB-C to Lightning. For an Android that would be USB-C to USB-C. And, there are chargers with from 18 watt to 100 watt capabilities. iPhones will use up to 18w while iPad can go above 27w. However, 18w appears to be adequate to power most things - I think. QC3.0: This uses the standard USB cable, but QC3.0 is only supported by a limited number of devices running a Qualcomm chip. That chip negotiates the needed current with the charger, and if you plug a USB device in that doesn't support QC3.0 it'll get charged, but at the old USB rate. So far I've only found a few cigar lighter replacement ports that have USB-C. This one from Amazon has both USB-C and QC3.0, although the USB-C is only 18w, but it doesn't have an on/off switch. So I'm thinking it might not be a good one to use in our trucks as the always-hot cigar lighter wiring would cause some battery drain, at least for the volt meter. Thoughts? Other options?

As part of Big Blue's transformation I'm going to install a USB charging port, or ports, in the dash to support long distance travel with various electronic devices. So I'm wanting to get some conversation going on how best to do that and what the USB requirements might be, and I thought I'd do that in another thread rather than Big Blue's to get more people involved. I've been thinking I'll use the USB port on the big 3000W inverter that will be behind the seat and just wire it up to a port in the dash. However, with a bit of Googling I've found that USB outlets are not common. Instead, USB charging ports, meaning outlets with built in chargers, are very common and inexpensive. Further, many of them go right into the hole where the cigar lighter is. So I'm now thinking that going that way is best as it would be extremely easy to install in place of the cigar lighter. In fact, it seems to me that a 1-port charger would be adequate, and if someone needed another port they could reach behind the seat and plug into the USB. And I kinda like this one as it not only has a switch so the always-on power of the cigar lighter's wire can be turned off, but it also has a digital voltmeter. The downside is that this supports QC3.0, and that isn't supported by Apple devices. Instead, what it appears I should look for is a port that supports "Power Delivery". However, the only things I've found that support that are the type that plug into the cigar lighter, and I want one to replace the cigar lighter. So, what do you think? Is one easily-accessed port enough with another available? Is this one interesting? Do you have other suggestions? Do you know if a port that supports Power Delivery?

Ok, I won't pull it out to measure. (Especially today as it is snowing/sleeting/raining and 31 degrees.)

Great info Gary, thanks! And yes I did contact Clay. Going to talk today when he gets a look at the part. That's good info to have on the number suffix. So I'm off to a good start with the hard parts for this swap. Thanks for all the help! I was, quite honestly, thrilled to have come to that conclusion and have it confirmed by Bill. I've been puzzled by the suffix variations, so took some time this round to do just a bit of research and it paid off. When you talk to Clay today you might ask about the other parts you are looking for. He seems to have sources.

Beautiful truck! Hope it brings that kind of money.

I'm pretty sure I can put it in an 8 1/5 x 11" padded envelope. And that's what we weighed when I got the $50 estimate to ship it to your polizeistation. Are you coming to the States?

A coiled line like that is usually a mechanical coolant temp or oil pressure line. And there's no oil pressure to read in the intake manifold, but there is coolant. So it is surely a coolant temp line going back to the gauge.

I have at least one clutch switch. I know I got one from David and I think one from you. So I'm in good shape there. Thanks!

Probably. But when you have a heavy truck and a heavy axle, moving them with respect to each other is not easy. There seems to be a natural place for the axle to hang, and it isn't centered below the studs.

The spring codes of 5 and 6 are front/rear respectively. The "6" crosses to E0TZ 5560-B via the snippet of the MPC shown on the Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Rear Suspension/Rear Springs page. And that spring has a 1786 # capacity, which gives 3572 total. Pretty close to what I think is 3580 on the certification label. So, what there another question?

I sent Bill/Numberdummy an email today asking "If an ID/engineering # ends with something like AA, is it true that the same number with A1A or A2A or A3A will cross-reference to the same service part #?" And I got back a one-word answer: "Yes." So that A3A pulley you found will work. But, the one from Clay may be better - assuming you've contacted him.