Gary Lewis

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Thanks! Your radiator support should clear the RSK, but two of the bolts come pretty close to it. I loosened the radiator support so I could slide it around and let it settle after the RSK is installed. Then I'll tighten it back up. The RSK should give me a 2" lift over stock. I don't want the truck to be a monster truck, but I want it to sit at a respectable height that will still allow me to pull goosenecks if so desired. So I'd like to see where it sits with stock SD springs, that way I can gauge which springs to buy. If I were to go with 2" lift springs, that would theoretically give me a 4" lift, and that's about as high as I'm willing to go. I've always loved the height that brush trucks sit. Below would be my max height. I'm with you on all that. I want mine to set pretty much level, and that's after I soften the rear springs by pulling leafs out. But you are ahead of me so I'm awaiting what you find.

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Looks good, Shaun. Isn't yours about where mine is? Hadn't thought about where my radiator support will go. As for the springs, how much lift do you expect to get with the RSK?

Ok, here's a question probably best addressed to Bill, but I'd be happy if others chimed in as well. The question is where to interface between the '85 and '96 regarding the fuel pressure relay. On the '85 the FPR is an unusual type of relay and hangs by itself on the firewall looking like an afterthought. But it is there and works. On the '96 the FPR is a standard Ford/Bosch style relay and is in the power distribution box. So, which to use? To use the '85 Bill came up with a slick way of having the ECU provide the ground to the '85 FPR, and presumably also ran a wire back to the ECU to let it monitor the output of the FPR. But, I could use the FPR in the power distribution box and eliminate the '85 FPR on the firewall as well as the oil pressure switch on the back of the engine. This would preserve the '96 system and would only require running the output of the '96 FPR to the '85 inertia switch and then jumpering the wires where the '85 FPR was. I lean to the latter as the '96 engine harness doesn't have any wiring for the oil pressure switch. Yes, I could integrate the wiring that is there, but it seems cleaner to use the whole of the '96 system and interface after it. Thoughts? Would wiring diagrams help you get your head around it?

As long as you don't hold us liable if it doesn't work out like you'd hoped! Seriously, if I do have concerns I will reply. If I agree that it's a good plan I will probably reply. If I don't really have many thoughts about it I likely won't reply. So with that said, I think this is a good plan (the "I'll take that as concurrence" that is, I'm not speaking to the wiring) Ok guys, I guess I'll take your jabs as concurrence. Anyway, I had a bit of a setback today as I, foolishly, did an "upgrade" to the BIOS to my Win 8 shop computer. In the back of my mind I knew I shouldn't, but HP said it is a critical update for security. It is now very secure - the network controller and many other controllers aren't working. The drivers are bad and I have no way to get new drivers save put them on a thumb drive. But when I tell it to update the drivers it can't install them. In some ways I've been needing a new computer as this one will just decide to shut down w/o warning. So anything I was doing is gone unless I save FREQUENTLY. But I really don't want to spend the time to migrate to a new computer. Plus, I have two large monitors so any new computer has to have two HDMI ports on it. But I guess now I'll need to upgrade. Any suggestions? Now, for Big Blue. I'm almost to the end of ID'ing the connectors on the 1996 CA-spec harness. But I had to pull out the '95 F450 Fed-spec harness I got from Jim as some connectors were missing on the CA harness and I needed to figure out where they go. And, in doing that I proved, yet again, why you get multiple of whatever you are doing - the Fed harness has pretty much the connectors that are missing from the CA harness. Like, the ignition module one. Along the way I compared the two PDB's - which appear to be the same. The '96 CA PDB is on the left and the '95 Fed harness is on the right: And, you may be asking what the differences are between the two. Here's a shot of the CA-spec ECU connector on the left and the Fed-spec connector on the right. Notice there are a few more pins on the CA-spec connector? Because that goes to the EEC-V ECU while the other goes to an EEC-IV ECU. The EEC-V ECU's have 104 pins and the IV's have 60. Part of the extra pins go for things like 8 separate injectors instead of two sets if four, the MAF sensor, etc. So, now I'm going to start mapping the PDB. As you can see in the PDB pic above, I have extra connectors so can populate the unused relay and fuse positions - if I need them.

I'll let y'all know 'bout Scotty's Voodoo cams later this year.

Jim - On my/Brandon’s D44HD a 1 1/8” socket slips on the pinion nut perfectly.

John has been working an a '72 F250 for years as the owner gets the money, and he ordered panels from Tabco after his experience on Dad's truck. He was sold.

While this may be the slowest-possible approach, at least it will give me the assurance that I know what is needed and what is not needed. Thoughts? I think I'll start phrasing the questions differently. Something like "If no one disagrees I'll take that as concurrence." Anyway, I think I've almost gotten all of the connectors on the harnesses ID'd and hope to finish that up today. But, I want to confirm my understanding of the O2 sensors and their usage. There are 3 of them in the EEC-V system: #11 - upstream right; #21 - upstream left; and #12 - downstream/after the cat. My notes tell me that since I won't have a cat I can't run the one that is after it since it will always throw a code - and there's no reason for it anyway. Does anyone disagree? So, looking at the Rock Auto site I find these three Bosch sensors. And since I know that only the CA-spec 460's had EEC-V/MAF/SEFI then I think I need #15717 (upstream left w/CA emissions) and #15716 (upstream right w/manual trans and CA emissions). Disagree?

Shaun - Yes, that is an intriguing area. It looks like there were several changes along the way. And with the several sizes of frames, that makes the frame liner a complex discussion.

Yep. For sure. Different heads, different intake, different exhaust manifolds, and different valve covers.

Yep. Jim put me onto Tabco years ago and my paint/body man said they are the best panels he's ever gotten.

I'll get the pinion nut size - after the second cuppa and I'm only on the first. Ok, for the FSM sections: Front Suspension: Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Front Suspension and then the Instructions tab followed by the 4wd tab. Front Axle: Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials and then the Front Axles tab followed by the Instructions tab and then the Dana 44 tab.

I wondered which ones that might be. CT has 5543 sq miles, and Osage County, the one in which I live and the largest in OK, is 2304. But there are 47 counties in the US larger than CT! In fact, San Bernardino County in CA 20,105 sq miles. Almost four times the size of CT.

Angelo - I like this! But I have some thoughts: First, on your answer on the Swiss cheese frames, it looks like you are agreeing with the statement (which really isn't a question) - until you go read the page to which you linked. You could copy and paste a bit of that page into the answer and say "as explained here" or somesuch. On frame heights and thicknesses, I think you might be surprised at the differences. Take a look at the table in this post, which comes the 1982 Dealer Facts Book, as that post does. You could include that table in your post.

That's cool! He won't forget that.

That's a bummer! Hope you are well now. On the LED's, make sure you check that they are all in correctly before putting it all back together. I like to plug the cluster in and turn the lights on before actually putting everything else in place. Usually some of them don't come on 'cause they are in backwards.

Looks like a very thorough list, Jim. I was going to suggest a cheater, but I see you have a 32" breaker bar, which should do just fine. What about penetrating oil? Does mineral spirits work for that? And, I like brake cleaner for getting the last bit of oil off before painting or hitting something with Ospho. How 'bout Cotter keys? They should have come with the ball joints. You have the FSM, right? I'll get the size of the D44HD's pinion nut after a bit.

That's a really nice Olds! Yes, sometimes deals just fall into your lap. And, that's quite a collection of vehicles the group has. Is it just a bunch of friends, or a car club, or?

That's one I'd been looking for to install in Dad's truck. Please let us know what you think when you get it.

Angelo - I disagree on the ride. In my opinion a TTB F150 rides well. And a solid axle F350 rides OK. But a TTB F250 rides poorly. Which is a big reason Big Blue is getting a D60. (Solid axle, Ray.) Ray - Having said the above, I think it would be a good trade with what you have in mind. The 460/F250/auto/4x4/long bed will tow your trailer much easier than the 300/F150/manual/2x4/short bed. But, it will be thirsty. As my brother said of his 460, it gets 10 MPG by itself and it gets 10 MPG towing. It don't care. But, don't expect it to ride nicely. However, if it has sway bars disconnect them and it'll ride less badly.

Never fear, we are here to help you. Just start another thread, post the problem and some pics and we'll get started.