Gary Lewis

I called Bill/NumberDummy this afternoon and we had a good chat. Turns out he's put away his MPC's and has stepped down from providing part numbers. After 18 years he just got tired of having to deal with people telling him he didn't know what he was talking about when he tried to explain that the number on a part is not a part number. Instead of spending many hours a day helping others he's helping himself. He spends an hour each day at the gym, and then reads and re-connects with old friends. So I invited him to come here and hang out. Regale us with the many stories he knows. Hope he does.

Welcome! Glad you joined, Paul. What part of CT? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had the city/town. A suggestion - put your name and details of your truck in your signature. We like to use first names to keep it friendly, and having the details of your truck easily accessible when we read your question helps us answer much more accurately. As for it shutting off when pulling into the driveway, have you determined if you have spark? If so, have you proven you have fuel? But, the best way to troubleshoot is to start a thread in the main section and ask specific questions. More people will see your posts there than here, so you'll get more support.

Pittsburg. And it is sprung but still works. I'm hoping the Maddox is stronger.

The headlight relay kit is really a must. Lots of trucks have had the headlight switch or the wiring melt down w/o it, and repairing that is frequently more expensive than the relay kit. Plus there's lots more light. What's not to like?

I agree with Jim. I don't know that I see any scoring. Yes, there's a ridge, but nothing serious that I see. So I'd do as he suggested - beat on it with a heavy duty detergent and probably a quart of ATF. What do you have to lose?

Looks very familiar. Should do the job well.

And I used a home-made relay kit until I pulled Big Blue down for transformation. And when he goes back together he'll have relays under the hood as well. They will probably be integrated into the PDB.

Wow! That cleaned up nicely!

Not me. Go for it.

Ok, thanks.

Dave - The trucks prior to D75,000 take 4 different brackets. The trucks from D75,000 take 4 brackets, but only 2 pair. Ron - Are you saying your bracket will also work on the 1977-79 trucks from D75,000? And, that bumpers from those trucks can be used on Bullnose trucks and vice versa since the holes have to be drilled? If that's the case, do you have connections with the folks with the earlier trucks? I do if you'd like me to get you in touch with them re your brackets.

I'm pretty sure that the Bullnose brackets won't fit on earlier trucks. The Bullnose brackets have E0TZ prefixes, meaning they were new for 1980. The earlier ones have D3TZ prefixes up until Serial # D75,000 in 1977, at which point the prefix was D7TZ, for 1973 and 1977 respectively. I just realized that prior to SN D75,000 there were four parts: left-hand inner; left-hand outer; right-hand inner; right-hand outer. With the change they went to two parts: left-hand inner & outer; right-hand inner & outer. And that was carried over into the Bullnose era.

Gary, I’ve been looking around at AC parts and components and something I’m not finding easily is the heat/AC control panel without the dual fuel tank switch. I know they existed as AC was an option in Flaresides obviously but every time I find a controller or pictures of one it always has the dual tank switch. Perhaps David can find one? I'm sure he'll be checking in tomorrow. But, there's another use for that extra switch - a kill switch. Simply wire the tach signal to that switch and ground the other side. With the switch in the "wrong" position no amount of cranking nor jumpering will get the engine to run. The only way it'll run is to flip the switch back or cut the DG/Y wire that goes to the tach after it branches off from the DG/Y wire going from the DS-II module to the coil.

Yes, but QC 4.0 incorporates Power Delivery (USB-PD). So a QC 4.0 port should play nicely and charge rapidly a PD-enabled device like an iPhone X. But I'm still confused as to what cable to use. Let me say it differently. This charger says it is both QC 4.0 and Power Delivery Type-C. So, do you use a standard USB cable to charge an iPhone or a USB-C cable? Here's what the advert says: 【USB TYPE C OUTPUT】30W USB TYPE C Power Delivery usb car charger enable fast for more powerful devices.For Apple iPad Pro,MacBook,MacBook Pro,MacBook Air, Nintendo Switch, Samsung Galaxy Note 9/8/S9/S9 Plus/S8/S8 Plus Nintendo Switch and more at full 30W speed. The USB-C comes with USB 3.0 Power Delivery and QC 4+, so you can enjoy 50% faster charge speeds for compatible devices. 【Power Delivery (PD)】Charging is basically a fast charging protocol which is making use of the great functionality and universality.Type C port also supports Qualcomm Quick Charge QC4+ which is fast charging for iPhone car charger. Get a convenient universal adapter that's perfect for your USB-A and USB-C devices. Whether you're recharging your tablet or topping off your smartphone for the day ahead, the Fast Charge Dual Output Car Adapter's lets your device reaches full capacity soon. 【USB-A OUTPUT】USB Type A Qualcomm Quick charge QC3.0 can charge for iPhone 11 / 11 Pro / 11 Pro Max / XS MAX /XS / XR/ X / 8 Plus / 8, iPad Pro, Google Pixel 3 / XL / 3a, Samsung Galaxy smart phones, tablets and more USB powered devices. 【ALL METAL MATERIAL】The advanced full aluminum alloy body with scratch resistant technology keeps it sturdy and let the usb c car charger always look like new. This car charger has a full metal body made of zinc-aluminum alloy that is resistant to scratches. The charger fits most car cigarette lighters. 【COMPACT TRAVEL CHARGER】The usb c car charger will not block anything near the cigarette lighter socket unlike a larger cell phone charger; Edge ridge design provides easy insertion and removal from vehicle lighter socket. Now, you can get small, affordable car chargers with powerful USB-C ports built right in, no cooling fans required. The inbuilt high-class circuitry offers protection against short circuit, high and low voltages, overcharging and high temperature.

My bad. Wanna move this?

Yes, it is amazing what can, and is, being done with odd-shaped headlights. But in almost every case they use plastic for the lens, and some of that plastic tends to color and haze pretty quickly in the UV. I'm thankful to have glass lenses on the Bullnose trucks.

We can easily have a Tips & Tricks folder. But I question the need for such. (You take one side of the discussion and I'll take the other.) Yes, you'd know where to look if you wanted to scroll through looking for a topic. But why scroll when we have a search function that will find things in any folder? As for stabbing the filter with a screwdriver, been there, done that, got the oil all over me to prove it. And I have strap wrenches which can usually remove a filter. In fact, I have a strap wrench specifically for removing filters. But I'd never seen anyone use a chain so thought y'all would be interested.

If you are suggesting that several new charging standards will come out before I get to this, then I hope you are wrong. (Although experience teaches otherwise. ) But this project will be after Big Blue is back on the road as, other than running wiring under the carpet to the inverter, it can all be done after the fact. So maybe I should run the wiring under the carpet to start with. Anyway, I've learned quite a bit from this exercise. I'd not heard of QC3.0/4.0 or Power Delivery, nor that the latter is part of USB-C. And I certainly didn't know that newer cables are required.

I saw this on FB and thought it was worth sharing. We apparently don't have a Tips & Tricks folder, so here 'tis in the main section:

I would hope that a complete LED headlight replacement that has the DOT certification has worked out the geometry/lens combination. But that would be a very complex thing unless they can put the LED at the focal point. But if you are looking for diffused light, like for your fog light application, maybe an LED replacement works. But which one? From what I've seen there are many different configurations. However, that's not the topic of this thread, as you said.

David, You're a good man! Thank you sir. I ended up buying these parts and got a little bit of a discount on them. The shipping from North Dakota or wherever they were cost as much as the parts, but I'm OK with that. It looks like everything is there. There is only one part there that I can't identify but I'm sure it will become clear once I have the stuff in front of me. I also ordered a crank pulley with the 3rd sheave for the AC belt. It is coming from North Carolina I believe. That gets me some critical parts for the conversion. As per Lebaron previously, I will keep my eyes open for a 94-97 AC system and components, but right now a Bullnose V-belt system is going to be easier for me to deal with, even if it isn't as good. I plan on putting a shut off valve on the heater core hose(s) anyway, so I will have control over that. Excellent! I love it when a plan comes together.

There are glass shells intended for the H4 bulbs. But, I do not think LED H4 replacements will work properly in them. I've tried to explain that in the Lighting Upgrades thread, but let me try again, briefly, here. If you look at the reflector and H4 bulb from the side you'll see that the reflector is a parabola such that light from a single point, called the focal point, reflects horizontally. And the filament of the H4 bulb lays horizontally so it is a dot, right at the focal point. But LED's are not configured that way. There are multiple LED's in an H4 replacement and therefore they aren't at the focal point. So their light doesn't reflect horizontally. Instead, it comes off in all sorts of angles and the result is that you don't get a focused beam of light. Yes, the lens tries to focus it, but there are limitations to what it can do.

Oh yes, don't miss the link on the Holley 4180C page to the Adjustments booklet, which has even more info on that carb.

I have one and would be willing to do the dance Jim suggested. However, these are heavy carbs and the shipping would get expensive. If you have a carb shop locally it might be less expensive to have them do it just from the shipping alone. We have two versions of the factory rebuilding manuals here: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carb Chokes & EFI/Holley 4180C and on the Ford Service Manuals tab. Either your shop or you could follow them to rebuild the carb. And Jim is right - it sounds like you have both a blown power valve and a vacuum leak. Those aren't hard to repair and we can walk you through it - and I'd start with Jim's suggestions. But if you have a vacuum leak then having the carb rebuilt isn't going to fix all of the problems as the leak is probably not the carb's fault.

Yes, they are backwards compatible. But I'm wanting to get up to the latest standards when I install it so it'll last for a while. And USB-C/QC4.0 appears to be the latest. As for Chris, if I remember correctly he had a large hydra-headed USB charger plugged into the cigar lighter on his SVO the time he brought it down here for the show, which was several years ago and the standards have moved on since then. The beauty of the latest standard is that the device negotiates the needed current with the charger. And since iOS now has better charging algorithms than previously it'll tailor the charge to its needs. No sense going with old tech when the prices are pretty much the same for the new stuff.