Gary Lewis

Cory - With all the parts clean and to-hand things should progress rather quickly when you get started. Dave - Time with the wife, both of you getting to do what you want, is a blessing. I love trips like that.

It must be nice to have a memory. I think I used to have one, but I really don't remember. On the pulley, you are saying that the "hatchet" was just a spacer with no offset weight. Right? If so, could a hatchet be cut and machined down to put the pulley where it should be - assuming the crankshaft snouts are the same 'tween a 429 and a 460? (I have a hatchet laying on the bench that I don't know what to do with.)

Actually, I think several of the colors were clear-coated. From our page on Documentation/Specifications/Exterior/Exterior Paint Codes here are the US paint codes. Note the statement in the Notes at top that any paint indicated by a theta, which is an "o" with a slash through it, is a clear coat color. So, for instance, Code 14, Light Charcoal Metallic, would have been cleared.

Sounds like an interesting project. But I'm not sure what you mean, Jim, about adapter drawings. On the pilot bearing, this site says "Lets not forget the crank pilots....early cranks have the 1.850 and later are 1.375. This applies to both 429 and 460. Not sure when they quit using the 1.850....1970??? So here's what I see from previous years, with "A" being Ford, "B" being Falcon, and "F" being Mustang.

You are missing the little plate that closes off access to the torque converter. Not a huge deal, but a rock or somesuch could get throw in there on one of your dirt roads and rattle around a bit.

Glad you had a good trip!

Thank, or should that be 'tanks, for the followup. It is always good to know how things turn out, and even better when they turn out well. As for the offer on the straps, that is the spirit of the Bullnose Forum!

You must have. Haha. By the way, don't know how you pasted it in there, but I right-click the picture, copy the address, and then paste it in the "Or copy an image from the Internet:" option. But make sure that there's no number past the jpg. Sometimes when I edit the pic Weebly will put a number at the end. Just delete that back to the "g".

Shaun - I think I just beat you getting them in there.

Thanks for pointing out that they weren't in the parts number info. They are now at Documentation/HVAC/HVAC systems. And I only put the F-Series info on there. But, just so you don't need to go look:

Do you know if the van has EEC-IV or EEC-V? I ask because I have schematics for both in the '96 F-Series EVTM. The trucks below 8500 # GVWR are EEC-V and those 8500 # are EEC-IV. And that makes a difference in the wiring. One way to tell is if there's a mass air flow sensor at the air cleaner box. EEC-IV doesn't have one, but V does. And, EEC-IV trucks have bank-fire injectors with half of the injectors having a tan wire from them, along with the common red, and the other half having a white wire as well as the red. But on EEC-V trucks each injector has the common red plus a wire color unique to that cylinder, with #1's being tan, #2's being white, #3's being brown/yellow, etc. However, some things may be common. Like the EGR Control Solenoid had red to one side and brown/pink to the other on both systems. On the other connector, in the EEC-IV system there's a Secondary Air Injection Diverter Valve with a red wire to one side and a white/orange to the other. And I've found that in my harnesses the white looks yellow and it is hard for me to tell orange from yellow. But that connector is only used on the F450's. So perhaps that one isn't used in your van?

Got the email, processed the file, and replied. I've played with many different ways to present the info on the website, and have found that doing a screen grab from a zoomed-in pdf is pretty good. But the best is the pdf itself. On Sun, Jan 19, 2020 at 12:37 PM Angelo Voltura [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

I, too, was surprised that there was carpet on the back wall but a mat on the floor. I wonder if the carpet on the back wall was part of the insulation package?

Yes, embedded pdf's are the sharpest way to get the info on the site. Having said that, there are a lot of times when I want to quickly post a pic in a thread of a schematic or whatever, and having posted the EVTM's as images I can right-click the schematic, choose Copy Image Address, and paste that into the "Or copy an image from the Internet:" part of Insert Image. Works really well, but you have to make sure the code you paste in ends with jpg. Sometimes I've edited the image and Weebly sticks a number on the end that has to be taken out. Anyway, I'll go back and clean up that page and just leave the pdf's. Just wanted you to see what happens when you do things like copy a pic from the internet.

It is a beautiful, but cool, Sunday here. Just home from church, am sitting down to catch up and watch the Chiefs beat the Titans (I hope), and back to the church building for game night. Gonna be a game-type day.

Looks OK eh Gary? Looks like there's a dent in the driver's door just forward of the lower mirror mount. One of the paintless dent repair shops could probably massage that out to keep the paint original. Otherwise, the old thing seems pretty decent. I love seeing those clean interiors and engine bays. No, actually, it looks lots better than OK. And you are right about the dent and keeping the paint original. But, the truck isn't what I'd want. Down here we need A/C, and as you've found out, that's not the easiest thing to add. And while I'd like to own a diesel, that and a C6 doesn't seem to me to be a good combo. Assuming 3.55 gears that thing's going to be turning 2800 R's at 65 MPH. And that's pushing the diesel. Given the great rubber mat/carpet debate, I'd like to see the rubber mat pulled back and see what the floor looks like.

That's Big Blue's brother! Almost twin, but with a different engine and tranny. Really well preserved. Wow!

I hadn't thought of worn linkage either. But that could do the bit about not accelerating immediately from a stop with a gentle prod of the pedal. As for hard starting after a few days, especially when cold, there are a lot of factors. Gasohol evaporates faster than pure gasoline. And a choke that isn't coming on quite far enough will require more pumping. But an accelerator pump that isn't doing what it is supposed to do will exacerbate things.

I'm sorry, but there are three different "resolutions". Which one(s) look fantastic? (I'm thinking you mean the embedded PDF, but you didn't say.)

I'll email you on this.

Well, I made some progress today, as shown below. I'd hoped to get the wheels on, but didn't get the brake hardware on so didn't want to do that. And, along the way I used one of my tricks - grinding a bearing race down to use as a driver for the new race. The inside race sits in a recess that is deeper than the race is wide, so if I'd used the old race to press the new one in the old one would have been partially in the hub and have to be extracted. Instead I put the old race on the roller bearing and held the race to the bench grinding wheel while holding the bearing. The race runs slower than the wheel and gets ground down, slowly. I took .010" off and it worked a treat.

Angelo - I've created a new page: Documentation/Accessories/Air Horns. But, I took the opportunity to show you how different approaches to getting the pictures. I right-clicked on the two pics you posted, the one of the part numbers and the one of the illustration. And I cropped them to display only the info pertinent to our trucks. And you'll notice that the pics are somewhat blurry. Then I went to my MPC and pulled up those two pages. On the part numbers I zoomed in to 200% and then used the snipping tool to capture the same info that's in your pic of the part numbers. You can see the difference as that approach makes it much sharper. But on the illustration I "printed" it to a picture at 600 dpi and then cropped it. It is also sharper than yours, but there's not as much difference. Last, I then extracted those two pages into separate PDF's, cropped them, and embedded them on that page. See what you think. Note that on the pdf's you can actually highlight and copy the text.

Got it! Thanks, I'm a bit slow. As said, I'd be happy to do the OCR'ing on my new whiz bang computer. But I don't want you to get in trouble with Ford.

I'm lost. Do you have a book, or a scan of a book?

Book? So it is an actual book?