Gary Lewis

Added a bit today: 3.8L: The Engine book from the 1983 FSM came in today, thank you David, and I scanned in the 47 pages from it on the 3.8L Essex V6. So we now have a full compliment of FSM engine sections! 1981 Exterior Color Selections: Not to be outdone by David in spending my money, Shaun pointed out a good buy on the 1981 brochure showing the colors, so I scanned it in and added it to the Documenation/Literature/1981 page. 7200 VV: And, while I was perusing the 1981 Engine book I realized it has the section on the 7200 VV carb. So I scanned it and added a page at Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/7200 VV. EFI: And, as I was looking at the carb section, which the 7200 VV document completed, I realized we didn't have the EFI section in. So, now we do at Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/EFI. So that's another 89 pages of documentation. This new scanner sure makes it easy! And, it is crisp as well. But, I do need to get back to Big Blue, so I think I'll stop scanning for a bit now.

The black box is just a housing that holds the relays. The red/yellow wire goes into a plug, like the black plug on the right that connects to the green thing, which is the relay. In that black housing there are two relays. The fuel pressure relay is supposed to be in there, but is sometimes on the firewall like the one on the right in the circle.

Here's a pic of the relays on Big Blue. I've circled three since I've seen the fuel pump relay in both the 9C392 housing as well as by itself on the firewall. But look for the red/yellow wire going in as well as yellow, black, and pink/black hash wires.

I sure wish it was either red or blue.

My plans for starting up the engine is not to have the PS/AC belt on, so won't have to worry about leaks at that point. But later I'll certainly want to have rags handy. However, I'll probably just order the Chevy line. That will be far less expensive than having something made. Thanks.

Good to know on the harness. Cory, I sent Cousin Vinny an email asking how he is and if he'd join the fray.

It does look good, but for that price I'd want a few more pics. Having said that, it is on CL which is considered to be for "locals", and they should be able to come and see it. But I sold Rusty through CL to a guy is Texas. And I had lots more pics for less money.

Two boxes - one to wipe your tears for having gotten so little for so much, and another to put back in the dispenser.

I thought Vinny mentioned a while back that the early '85 302's were still carbed, and that the full switch to EFI didn't actually take place until around February of 1985. I thought he said that most 302 trucks with a build date of 02/85 and later were EFI, and before that were mostly carbed. It might have been January, but I'm not sure now. Since production probably started in August, January or February for the introduction would fit with "late availability". Haven't heard from Vinny/vjsimone in a while. He rode his bike here to the show a year and a half ago, and has checked in a few times since, but not often. Wonder how he's doing?

But the gear ratios were basically the same, weren't they? It's not like there's any real world difference between a 3.00 in a 9" and a 3.08 in an 8.8, or the same between the 3.50 in the 9" and the 3.55 in the 8.8, is there? I saw an '86 F150 4x4 a couple years ago with a factory 9" rear end and found it odd. It was a 302 truck with NP435 4spd. I was told that it had the 9" because it was a 302 4spd. I had an '85 F150 4x4 with the AOD trans, and it had an 8.8 in it. Yes, Cory, there's not enough difference in gear ratio to warrant one axle over the other. The info I posted yesterday is from the 1986 facts book. But I also checked the 1985 facts book yesterday and it shows the 9" as standard in some cases and optional in others. And I'm confident the 1984 facts book will show that as well, although I can't check until later this morning. And the master parts catalog shows the 9" being used through 1986: I can't imagine Ford showing that level of detail for three years running in the dealer facts books if it was an error. And the fact that the MPC shows the 9" still being used through '86 lends support to that theory.

Ok, glad you can do the wiring. Personally, I solder all connections and use adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing to protect the connections. Anyway, I looked for my pics on doing the work on Big Blue in the area we are talking about, and it turns out that it was done before I started this forum, so was while I was on FTE. Unfortunately FTE doesn't allow copying the link to a picture there and placing it here, so all I can offer you is this URL. If you go there you'll see an illustration of where the oil pressure switch is, and if you scroll down you'll see my pics showing the switch I used. And when I get home I can take a pic of where the fuel pump relay is on Big Blue.

I'm going to have to disagree. I know I wasn't "there", but I just checked only three documents and all three agree that there were 2bbl-equipped 302's in 1985. I know there are errors in the literature, but when all three of the ones I checked agree, it seems pretty conclusive to me. First, the page I quoted from previously is the 1985 Dealer Facts Book and it says that the EFI is being added as an option. Next is the 1985 brochure, and both the August of '84 and the January of '85 versions have this statement that the EFI is optional: And third is the Master Parts Catalog itself, which was last published in 1994. And this snippet from the MODEL APPLICATION TO PARTS LIST CROSS REFERENCE CHART shows both a 2bbl and an EFI 5.0L for 1985.

Ok, good point. If it didn't originally have an electric pump you may not have all of the other bits, like the oil pressure switch and the cutoff relay. I have a meeting at church in a bit, but can take pics when I get home of the switch and the relay. But, are you ok to do the wiring? Do you have wire, connectors, and either a ratcheting crimper or a soldering gun?

Yes, that is my understanding of it. I have it on my to-do list for down the road. The carburetor choke was my first thought for it, but I could also use it as a trigger for other devices so that I don't have to go digging through my wiring harness to get an ignition on/run signal. That should work, but with the minor problem of those accessories not coming on when the alternator fails. But then that would also be the case if you used the stator wire to pull in a relay, which I've done frequently. I guess I was just put off by several things about that unit. First, they don't tell you how it works. Then they say it "illuminates the fuse". What? Maybe that is because they speak both English and Chinese, and their English is far superior to my Chinese. And last, they show using no fuse and, to top it off, use a cheap crimper for the connections. So maybe I shouldn't penalize the product with the way they present it? The product itself seems like it would solve a lot of problems.

Jonathan - In your first pic is the cutoff end the one off the C2 hose? If so, do you have one that shows the business end of it? Yours looks to be flat or maybe flared on the end similar to the fuel line one in the 2nd pic. But my fitting has a tip on it that sticks out, and it has a taper that seems to be perfect for the fitting on the Sag pump. Which doesn't make sense as it came from a C2 pump. You didn't send the hose from the van, right? Do you remember what year? Perhaps I could persuade the local parts store to order one in and then make me a hose like that but with the correct length.

That's a great start! That will be a really neat bumper.

It is interesting that they set it to 6.5 but in their own documentation they say to set a regulator to 5.5 psi. At least that's the way I remember it. Anyway, at least you don't have way too much.

That's interesting, Cory. Apparently it senses the voltage increase when the alternator kicks in and then closes its internal relay. However, in the video on their site I dislike the way they run long wires from the battery through the firewall without a fuse. I think that is poor practice.

The 1985 Dealer Fact Book says "5.0L EFI V-8 (late availability)". And the other literature shows that there were both 2V and EFI 302's in '85.

That does not agree with Ford's documentation, as shown in this post above.

What is DOW? As for pulling them farther, that does make sense. So, lay them side by side?

Well done! 12A581 is "WIRE ASSY. (ENGINE CONTROL SENSOR)". But 9D930 is "WIRE ASSY. (FUEL CHARGE)" and that's probably the one. Here's what the catalog shows for that. But it appears that the catalog doesn't list the 302 correctly in '86 as I believe all '86 302's were EFI. So I'd say the part # is E6TZ 9D930-C and it will be marked E6TB-AA.

Oops, now I see that you said you can't find the numbers on them. Hmmm, I dunno......

By golly, you are right! And my page that shows them is wrong. It says F-Series above column 2B, but that's the F150's. F250's are 2C and F350's are 2D. So the Bronco's and F150's got E4TZ 2780-C and the F250's and 350's got E4TZ 2780-D. The way to find out is probably via the ID # stamped on them. Look for something like E4TE 2780-A1 and let me know. I can probably cross reference that ID # to the part #.

Ok, let me see if I can help. What Bill suggested is brilliant, and that's exactly why we have a forum - someone has an idea and someone else has a better one. The drawing below shows your fuel pump control circuit. In the upper left you'll see "Hot In Start or Run", and below that a red wire with a yellow hash mark (R/Y H) that goes from Fuse 18 to the Oil Pressure Switch. That means that when the key is either in Start or Run there is power provided to the oil pressure switch via the fuse and that wire. As shown the switch is "open", meaning there's no connection between the terminal on the top and the one on the bottom. But there's a note that says "Closed with engine running", and that means that battery voltage will flow across the switch to the Fuel Pump Cutoff Relay when the engine is running. And that will close the contacts on that relay and power the fuel pump. But, I've drawn a red arrow and added "Choke". If you tap into the red/yellow hash wire after the oil pressure switch you can run that wire directly to the choke and it will get battery voltage when the engine is running, and only when the engine is running. So, where are these components? The oil pressure switch is on the back of the engine, right in front of the firewall and behind the carb. If you need I can get pics of the one from Big Blue, but you should be able to find it easily, and it'll have two wires to it, and both are R/Y H. So, which one do you tap into? The one that goes to the fuel pump cutoff relay, and it is between the master cylinder and the driver's fender on the firewall. I've put an illustration below that shows what it looks like. So, are you ok with doing that wiring? Do you need suggestions on how to do that? (Please don't tell me you are going to use an insulation displacement connector to tap into the R/Y H wire and are going to use a cheap wire crimper to crimp the terminals. )