Gary Lewis

So that's why we haven't heard from you! Welcome home. IIRC you'd already done one wheel bearing 'cause that's why you got the trailer - it went out. So now you are set, but no brakes yet? What are you going to seal the roof with?

Ok, I'd assumed that was the connector to the 3G, and obviously it isn't. My bad. That appears to be Connector C610, as shown below. I've circled the four wires that should be in it. Is that correct? The expectation was that you'd leave that connector in place. The big yellow wire is a main power feed to the truck and is necessary. The two wires to the ammeter (R/O & Y/LG) can stay if you aren't replacing the ammeter, although it will always show discharge. And the LG/R would be picked up where the old regulator was on the fender and fed to the 3G's regulator. Have you already cut the wires, like it looks like in the pic?

Good catch, Bill. I didn't look closely enough. That won't even plug into the alternator.

It looks like you've gotten a plug from a different source than I've seen and the wire colors are different. So we have to figure out where each wire goes in the connector to ensure we understand In my pic below there are three wires in the main connector, and the regulator has the lettering A S I on it. If your regulator has that lettering you can plug the connector in and figure out which wire color matches to what the writeup says: A: Yellow/white wire that tells the regulator what the alternator's output voltage is. It can go directly to the output stud of the alternator or it can go to the alternator's side of the fuse/fuse link. S: Black/white stator output and that wire wraps back to the middle terminal on the regulator's plug. But, if you have a 7 volt choke be sure to see the ​Choke tab, above. ​I: Light green/red wire that tells the regulator that the key has been turned to On. This wire will connect to your original light green/red wire, regardless of whether your truck has an ammeter or idiot lights.

Yeah, I fully understand the desire to drive it after so many years of working on it! And you are right, that tranny is heavy. I can carry it, but lifting it up into place ain't gonna happen at my age.

Thanks, Dane. Got bored and added the BW1356 illustrations, parts lists, and rebuild instructions from the FSM to the Transfer Case page. So now we have all of the t-cases covered.

I envy you getting to drive your truck. And working out the issues. As for the milkshake, it does seem like it isn't getting thoroughly warm. Maybe the PVC system, or maybe just a 180 degree 'stat?

So it's diagonally across Okiehome from me? Our daughter went to school in Abilene, TX so we've driven through Wichita Falls many times. Cool!

Wow! It has been a week since I posted on this. But, there has been some progress. First, the hoses for the Saginaw-driven hydroboost system should be in on Monday. And if you followed that saga I have the C-II bracket on the engine and not the Saginaw bracket. So it needs to be blasted and powder coated so I can start the steering & brake system installation. Second, the headers are on order and are to be sent to Jet-Hot late next week, although I won't get them until about the Ides of March. That's the outcome of a bunch of discussion on the To Jet-Hot Or Not thread, and in the last week I've talked to or typed to seemingly a dozen vendors about that. But the decision has been made and we are moving on. And third, I turned a corner on the t-case today. As posted a week ago I didn't know which of the two springs was to go with the detent ball. But today I installed a few more pieces of the puzzle and got to the step where the oil pump is installed. Turns out the spring that drives the pins that drive the oil pump has to be the smaller of the two, so that problem is solved. So, maybe tomorrow after church I'll get the rest of the t-case together? Not many parts left now.

Thanks, Angelo. Bob - We'll have a page available for you if you want to write it up.

Welcome to the forum! Glad you joined and hope this won't be your last thread here. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu), and I'd be happy to add you if I just had a town/city. Also, you'll get more attention if you post this in both the main section as well as in the Marketplace/ For Sale, Trade, or Free To A Good Home. We don't want those fenders to be missed.

That's FUNNY! And yet, it'll be a moment you'll always remember. Trust me, been there done that and I sure remember those times with my father.

Had a request this morn for info on the Bronco's rear window, so added a page for it in a new section called Body. But then got to thinking it looked odd that there was only one page in there, so wanted to a few to keep it company. But things got a bit out of hand and all in all I added a total of 14 sections and 69 pages. But, I have a question for y'all: Is it right to have the power door and window sections in Body? In my defense, Power Windows is part of Section 42: Window Glass & Mechanisms. And Power Door Locks is part of Section 44: Doors, Hood, & Tailgate. So, here's what it looks like: Documentation/Body: Bronco Rear Window Door Latches & Locks Door Hinges Checks & Weatherstrips Doors Hood & Tailgates General Service Front Door Window Glass Mechanism Hood & Hinges Hood Latch Power Door Locks Power Windows Stationary Glass - Butyl Seal Stationary Glass - Weatherstrip Seal Tailgate Vent Window Mechanism Window Glass & Mechanism General Service

Man, that is looking GOOD! And it is coming along quite nicely. On the side cover, I'm guessing it is just a later/better design. The raised rib on the newer design would keep the cover straighter and probably help keep it sealed. The older style would tend to fold between the bolts.

LOL! Such a simple daffynition can never cover all possibilities. Starting on the easy end, the 33/38 gallon Bronco rear tank is certainly an upgrade. (The 38 is an upgrade to a Bronco, and a Bronco tank is an upgrade to a pickup.) And adding another tank to a Flareside is surely an upgrade. As for other transmission installations, Bob, sure! Write yours up? If adapters are available then why not? So, I have a question for y'all. Is installing a Bullnose front clip on a Bricknose an upgrade?

Ok, we have a new page: Documentation/Body/Bronco Rear Window. And it includes both the FSM section awa the ETVM pages. One-stop shopping.

The EVTM isn't too helpful, that's for sure. So I scanned in the section from the FSM. Maybe it'll help? And until I get it up on a page, here's your own personal copy:

You are now, quite literally, on the map. Nice looking truck. You've come to the right place to help and get help.

You've now posted there, so I can assume you read the guidelines.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Is that Jacksonville as in Florida? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you. Perhaps someone is nearby? As for questions, the only dumb one is the one you didn't ask. We don't expect people to know everything, so please ask away.

Welcome to the forum. Hope someone has what you are looking for. However, in the email I just sent you were specifically requested to "go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread/topic in that folder about yourself and your truck." The intent there is to ensure you've had an opportunity to read the guidelines, which all members will be held to. So please go do that and tell us a bit about yourself - in the New Members Start Here folder. That way at least you've been on the page where the guidelines are. Meanwhile, maybe someone has what you are needing.

My VIN 1FTCF10E4BNA30878 comes up as a 81 F100 2wd pick up complete. I did not run his VIN thru but looking over the page I don't see any thing about flare side or style side trucks just complete or other. On the other site you plug in the VIN and it pops up the information I just don't know where it is pulling this from? Maybe something like the Marti report you can get? No big deal just thought it was strange his that we don't know if it started as a flare side other than on paper (title) as it was missing the filler panels and some other little signs. Dave ---- Interesting. Don't know where the other site would be getting the info on the other details from the VIN. The MPC doesn't provide that. However, the Certification Label does provide more detail. And within that, if you go to Body Codes the 3rd digit of your body code should be a 3 to indicate Flareside.

Vic - I thought about it, conferred with the banker, and decided it is time to bite the bullet and go Pro. So now we can have editors that can just work on specific pages. Given that, are you game to try it out? Not sure what you want to work on first if you do, but I can duplicate any page and give you control over it. We should probably hide it in the menu so we don't confuse people, but I think you'll be able to do anything to it. Ready?

Gary, I think for all intents and purposes, the ZF-5 and the M5R2 5spd swaps are pretty much the same, just two different transmissions. I guess you could have a page dedicated to 5spd swaps, and then list the potential candidates for transmissions. I have noticed in the FB groups that there are quite a few guys running the M5OD-R2 transmissions in 1/2 ton pickups, and we have at least one member on the forum here with one of the Tremec 5spds (Mustang trans). I know the ZF-5 is the defacto premier/HD 5spd and is probably the most desirable, but it's not something you see swapped into 2wd 1/2 ton. I suppose it could get fairly convoluted with the various ZF-5 options...small block, big block, diesel, etc. For us 2wd guys, transmission selection is important because of the speedo cable. You are limited to using a truck 5spd from 1988-1991. Obviously, this isn't an issue for the 4X4 guys. There are little quirks and whatnot with these swaps as you recently found out with the rear trans mount, and Reamer had some issues with his slave cylinder and lines. If you're going from an auto to manual, at least with the small blocks, then you also need to do a starter swap. That is what I was thinking, but only because I'm probably in an extreme minority of people. I'm still running my original 1G alternator and fender mounted voltage regulator, and I don't really have any intention of doing a 3G swap...at least not in the near future. It's in the back of my head, but very low priority compared to other things I need and want more. However, I do want to do that voltage gauge mod. So that is where my head was at...you don't need to change anything. Now that I know where the info is, I can go there to read up on it. I don't mind helping with some info on the M5OD-R2 swap in a 2wd. I can throw some stuff on a Word doc and email it to you. That way you could copy and paste it. Cory - I misspoke. We actually do have an ammeter page: Documentation/Electrical/Ammeter. But that one and the one in the 3G page don't really say the same thing, so some rationalization needs to be done. On the transmission upgrade, in reality maybe the topic needs to be Overdrive Transmission Upgrades? And in the thumbnail sketch we could have links to multiple pages as we get them, like E4OD, M5OD, ZF5, etc. And you can be the first! Please write up your upgrade and send me the file. It'll probably take some Q&A'ing for me to get it the way you envisioned it on the page, but we'll get there.

Looks great! And now you can include that in your writeup.