Gary Lewis

Good to know, Bill. But I'm gonna try this one 'cause I have it. Want to make sure it isn't too big or somesuch, and then if I have problems I'll replace it - and use one w/o the fitting. But, for $6.24 delivered I'll have nine extra plugs. Shaun - I was pleased with the way it came out. Pretty sure there will be no flex in the firewall now.

Alex - I think you have a vacuum leak. I'm surprised that the idle mix screws didn't fall out at 7 turns, but you shouldn't need them out more than maybe 2 1/2 turns. So you have air coming in somewhere that you are compensating for by running the screws out. And that is why it won't idle below 1100. And that spacer is a prime candidate for leaks. I don't know for sure which spacer you have, but it is probably an EGR spacer, and the "vacuum diaphragm" is probably the EGR valve. This is a complex area. If you don't want to run EGR then you will need to change the ignition curve to compensate for the lack of exhaust gas in the mix. So I'd suggest you run EGR. But you absolutely have to make sure there's no leak of air in, and it is easy to have one there. In fact, some of the EGR spacers warped due to the heat and are very hard to seal. Brand of gaskets. Not Mr Gasket, for sure. Holley or Motorcraft would be my pick.

Steve - Yes, it is clearer, and you can zoom in on it. Dane - I've added "Index" in the upper corners to a few pages and clicking on that will take you to the Index. And I've added a button that says Go To Index on Page 4, but that doesn't seem to come through on the browser. Anyway, we'd need to add links to the Index on each page. Having said that, we can add links on the pages. For instance, if it says the other end of this wire is Page 9, you could click on that and it would take you to Page 9 - if I add that.

Let's see what other say. But to me it depends on the size of wire you are going to use. Fuse 9 is rated at 30 amps, so as long as the wire you use is rated at least at that then you are ok as a short in that wire will blow the fuse. But if you use a smaller wire the wire could melt before the fuse blows. From what I see a #10 wire is rated at 30 amps, so if you run that to the fuse holder and then something smaller, like #16 to the GVOD you'll be fine.

The HVAC system can make some odd noises. I've heard buzzing and hissing, for sure. You might want to pull the vacuum line going into the cab and plug it to see if the noise goes away. The line probably comes off of the plastic manifold on the firewall and to the passenger's side where it hits a check valve and tee. One side of the tee goes to a reservoir, and the other into the cab. Be careful as some of those lines are brittle and snap easily. But if you pull the line off of the check valve and plug the line you should be ok.

I think you have a good plan. It appears to be correct, and the way you are doing it can be put back if needed.

That's CRAZY! No way, Jose!

I need your input. I had an ah ha moment today and want to see what you think because I believe it would make hosting the EVTM's much easier for me. Basically the idea is create an index and give you the whole document in one go instead of breaking it up into sections. And the document will be a pdf rather than pictures of pages. An advantage to the user is that you can search the pdf. A disadvantage is that you can't easily post pages from it to forums. So I created a mini-version of the 1984 EVTM. It is only the first 17 pages of it, but I think you'll get the idea. Please see what you think: Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1984 EVTM.

I took the bolts out and shifted the plate so I could put the screws for the steering column in. Then I put the bolts back, re-gooed the backing plates, and tightened the bolts down. Then I installed the clutch master. Next up was the pedal assembly. Boy, was that a PAIN! Getting it in with those wires in the way wasn't easy, but it is in: And the hydroboost unit and the brake master are installed, as are the lines to the master. As said before, I used the lines from Huck, the '90 F250, from the master to the proportioning valve as their fittings and bends were just exactly right. All that's keeping me from filling the master and bleeding the brakes is a plug to replace the fire starter switch. I checked and it is 3/8-24 female flare, so I ordered a bag of 10 plugs from Amazon for $5.99. Then I re-installed the pin-cushion cowl as well as the cowl seal - using seam sealer this time. Seamed like a good plan. And I re-adjusted the hood as I'd had to take it loose in order to get the cowl off. So I'm calling it a day.

Something has to control the twin turbos. And the transmission.

Sure glad you got it together, Jochen. I'm sure it'll be just right. And, you are welcome.

Looks great, Scott. As for the fan noises, I tried to quantify them by using the NIOSH SLM app on my phone and cranking the volume up. There was a bit of a problem getting things to settle before you moved to another speed, and announced it, on the lower speeds. So those don't quite match up as they should. But you left it on high long enough in both case that I could capture it. Stock Relay 1: 55 58 2: 63 65 3: 70 70 4: 72 76

That you certainly have, and I thank you!

You must be very happy.

You are now on the map. As for the wire colors, I think you are into a difference with the customizing company. Ford was pretty consistent in their wire colors, as you can see here: Documentation/Electrical/Standard Wire & Color Codes. Our church van/bus is hard to troubleshoot 'cause the outfit that converted it did all sorts of weird wiring that doesn't match Ford's colors.

There's probably a lot of merit to doing the body swap. The computers, probably plural, control everything. And, be aware that there were two different 4wd systems. My Platinum also has a 4A setting in addition to the 2Hi, 4Hi, and 4Lo. In 4A it is basically AWD but the computer controls how much power is put to which axle. You can drive it on dry pavement according to the manual, but on slippery pavement you can watch a display on the dash of what percentage of the power is being put to which axle, and it is FAST! In the rain you can enter a puddle with 100% to the rear and watch it move to the front and then back to the rear as you pass through the puddle.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I would add you if I knew the town. As for vans, we don't have a separate section. Just go ahead and post in the main section. But unfortunately my schematics don't cover the vans. Perhaps someone else has some?

I'll let the 1981 Accessory Catalog answer the question:

I did buy one, by the way.

I think an Ecoboost swap into a Bullnose would be stellar. It would RUN. But be aware that there are at least two 3.5L EB's. My 2015 is the early version and sometime in 2016ish they changed it somewhat. I'm not sure what all the changes were, but the power specs are a bit different. Also, they changed out the tranny in the same time frame. Mine has the 6-speed, but in 2016 or 17 they started phasing in the 10-speed. Personally, I think the 6-speed is fine, especially for a pickup you'll use. The real advantage of the 10-speed is that it has several overdrive ratios and it can keep the R's low regardless of the situation, which increases MPG. But I didn't buy Blue for MPG. I spec'd him with the Max Tow package, which gives him 3.55 gears instead of 3.23's. That obviously hurt MPG as I get 18ish where 20 isn't unusual with trucks with the 3.23's. However, the later trucks with the new 3.5L EB and 10-speed get int the low 20's. As for power, it is AMAZING! As I've said, towing with it is so easy, and I'd rather tow with it than with Big Blue. Perhaps the new engine in BB will make a difference, as will the ZF5 'cause the T-19 had a 3rd-to-4th jump that wasn't fun.

Well done, Bob! When you started into that debacle I assumed you had sewage everywhere and I was envisioning the scene from RV. But w/o having un-winterized it was a lot less bad. And the fact that Lesley got to talk to her brother, and he was there to help you as well, was a big plus. On the relay, you are saying the RV didn't come with a continuous-duty one? That seems strange. What were they thinking???? Anyway, enjoy the trip. We will still be here when you get back.

It is plenty good enough for a how-to on that page. And I'll leave a place for the last installment - buttoning it back up with the new strikers in place. May take a bit, and I may need the originals of the pics as copies of pics snagged from the internet sometimes don't show well. But I'll work on it in the next few days and report back. Thanks!

I was thinking he could check the ground at C603 back to the battery post. Obviously the relay should provide essentially no voltage drop, but since the stock wiring provides the ground back through the blower motor switch I expect some voltage drop. But Scott has some videos for us of before and after that he plans to post, so let's see what they sound like.

I was envisioning doing it with the tires off the wheels. Even my mill may not be big enough with a tire on. But the jig might work pretty well. You might slip a piece of steel tubing over the bit to keep it from chewing on the aluminum of the jig since you have a dozen holes to drill.