Gary Lewis

Yes, that would be my expectation - tinned will hold up better to the battery acid and/or fumes. 1/0 should be good cables.

I don't know. When I was at LMC back in the fall they didn't let me go through the warehouse.

Good job, Jesse!

I like that ground strap. Blue Seas? On the headlight wiring through the core support, the later trucks ran a lot of wire through there, so I'm hoping to do the same. Not sure the core support will allow it, but I sure hope so. Anyway, good progress.

Right now with the U-codes and just the engine and tranny the front sits 2" higher than the rear. I'm hoping the t-case, front driveshaft, two large batteries, radiator & coolant, winch bumper and winch, etc level the truck out.

The choke is gonna get lots of juice. But seriously, overkill is a good idea on wire size.

Jim - That's your jar. Remember what's in it?

I'm curious how comfortable those seats are. I have a pair for Dad's truck, all nicely upholstered. But I've toyed with the idea of installing them in Big Blue if we are going to take some long trips in him as I think they'd beat the bench seat hands-down. But yours are going to look great! Show us pics with the covers on.

Yes, the cables were hung up on the top of the clutch lever. But, I had them through the hole in the top of the bracket and not the one in front of that one. So even after I got the cables free they didn't want to reach. And the inside of that area is full of sharp corners. My hands aren't happy. I have the cluster out, so why don't I take pics. I think I can do a good job, but we'll see. As for how the switch works, I think I'll bolt a spare vacuum booster to a spare pedal assembly, install a switch, and give it a try. One problem that I had, and the diagram helped solve, was C305 and C305A. Turns out that w/o speed control the turn signal/horn pad wires connect right into the u-shaped connector above the column - meaning C305 male to C305 female. But with speed control C305A male and female make up a jumper that also takes signals and power to the speed control amplifier. And that's not really shown very explicitly in the EVTM section on the turn signal switch. I saw it on the speed control page and then went back to the turn signal page and realized it is there - if you look for it.

Dad used to bring home bits of heavy rubber belts that the railroad used. They were laminated with a fabric reinforcement, and we used them for lots of things. If you had something like that cut to the right diameter and the right hole in the middle I'd think you could put a piece of steel around the edge with the right hole pattern in it and make it work.

Ok, I've read up on the kick panel vents and am interested. But, Jonathan had a good point about getting them in the right color, and Ford had four different blues: 1980/81; 82; 83/84; 85/86. So I sent the seller this message: We shall see.

Welcome. It just seemed to be a good discussion to have here. I knew the teardrop would come off 'cause it accidentally did on the old tilt column from Big Blue. So if the one for a 92+ doesn't work, I wonder about making a plate to fit the Bullnose column?

Yes, mine does have the braces for the wings.

Glad it worked! As for the fuel tank, I wouldn't clean it. I'd buy a new tank instead. They aren't expensive, and you'll dodge a lot of problems that you would probably have if you tried to clean it. As for what else to do, check all of the suspension bushings. The ones on the control arms are frequently bad.

I like it, Shaun.

Talent? Or luck?

First, an update on the headers. I called L&L to see what the status is of the headers. They said "They should be shipped by mid to late next week." I said "That's basically why I was told two weeks ago. Let's put it this way: If they aren't shipped by next Friday just cancel the order and I'll buy elsewhere." But, on a positive note, I got the cabling re-routed and got most things connected in and around the steering column. Scott's description as well as the video he sent helped. And after I was done I stumbled on this: And as I was trying to get the stop lamp switch on I came up with this. But I don't fully understand how the stop lamp switch works. It appears that when the brake pedal moves the switch tries to rotate on the pin and since the end of the push rod is square the rotation pushes the actuator in the switch and closes it. Right? Anyway, here's a pic of the steering column in, and you can see how I have it supported with a ratchet strap so I can reach in above it. That was key as otherwise I couldn't get my hands in to do anything. And here's how the seam sealer turned out on the firewall:

I suspect one of us is going to post a question about this. So, does the later column have an adapter like this? If so, can you put it on a Bullnose column?

Some information: read posts #28, 35 & 41 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/772508-good-old-fashioned-floor-vents-for-fresh-air-3.html And, another link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1343670-kick-panel-vent-install.html Thanks! I'll read those later as I'm winding down for the evening......

It is on all fours.

The D60 is in. But the engine, transmission, et al to be able to test it aren't, although we are getting close. Do you have specific questions?

Absolutely! Caffè Verona followed by French. I had the perfect pair of trucks with which to answer the question. Big Blue has the cable through the firewall and Dad's truck doesn't.

Yes, I would. Thanks for checking. Oh, you want to know the size? Why didn't you say so? 1.087"

Interesting! I've often thought of adding those to a truck with A/C, and those would be right for Big Blue. But, I've often wondered if they seal tightly, or if you have cold air leaking in around your feet in the winter. Anyone have any experience with these?