Gary Lewis

Jim - At least you got the brakes done, and extra things to boot. And safely. Bob - Hadn't heard that people escaped N'awlings due to Mardis Gras, but that makes sense. Interesting.

It doesn't say that there are supposed to be two. And the entry right above, E0TZ 9920092-A, does say it is supposed to have two.

If you could measure the 435 when you can so I see if it matches mine. It is that "4.847" measurement I am more concerned about. That is close to the 4.848 and the other is 5.125 it could be on what I am looking into. I have a plan and that is the part I need more than the output yoke as I have the 435 yoke. If I don't follow thru on my plan I could just do a swap if the T18 does not fit. Thanks Dave ---- Dave - I'm not getting out to the shop tomorrow as far as I know, but can check on Friday.

Myrl - Thanks! I created a page to capture the wiring harnesses: Documentation/Electrical/Wiring Harnesses/Wiring Harnesses, but to this point only have the cab (instrument panel to dash panel) harness included as I had no idea that there are as many different harnii as there are. But if I've missed some please let me know. And WOW! I had no idea there were that many different cab (instrument panel to dash panel) harnesses for the F-Series trucks: 1980: 4 With & without gauges and with & without aux tank 1981: 4 With & without gauges and with & without aux tank 1982: 4 With & without gauges and with & without aux tank 1983: 6 With & without gauges and with & without aux tank, diesel, and 460 hot fuel handling 1984: 6 With & without gauges and with & without aux tank, diesel, and 460 hot fuel handling 1985: 18 I can't get my head around all of the changes 1986: 8

Scott - Thanks. What you described in text as well as showed on the video is how I remember it. So I have something wrong with the earlier part of that large section of wiring, like maybe it is caught on something, as it won't come through the hole far enough. That's enough for me to go on, and it helps a bunch as it means I probably don't need to pull the pedal bracket off. I have it loose so it drops down a bit, but it is still attached to the brake booster and to the dash loosely. That lets me move it around to get clearance for the wires so I can move them. As said, we are headed into T-town tomorrow and I'll not be back on this until Friday, but hopefully can get it all connected up and the steering column installed then.

Scott - Glad to see she'll be here. Tell her the roller coaster will be out. And bring the whole family, please. As for the wiring, pictures would be helpful. We are going into Tulsa tomorrow so I won't get to it until Friday. And I like the idea of a bead of seam sealer on the firewall, inside, that will go through with the boot. Shaun - I was remembering that as well, but it isn't working. I'm not making any wiring change in that area at the moment, so this is stock wiring. I'm confused.

Appreciate that - sounds like a great parking lot mini-project for the end of September Seam sealer sounds like a great fit for that purpose. Yes, it could be a mini-project. Pull the intermediate shaft, pull the 3 screws, and wiggle the retainer out. Can Campbell help? And, on the seam sealer, the struggle will be to keep it off of everything else as I stab the steering column in. The problem is that rat's nest of wires that are intended to go below the steering column and aren't long enough to go above. I either need to tape it together or put convolute over it , at least while installing the column since right now it goes everywhere. Or, maybe I should lengthen and re-route the wires like they should have been done originally? But, I did find the clutch start switch connector and pulled the jumper that was in it and connected it to the start switch. So now it shouldn't start in gear. However, the question about where the other wires go was finally answered - not through the pedal box. I'm pretty sure of that since they aren't long enough to make that happen. So, I've loosened the pedal box and am trying to snake the wires out. However, it looks like I'll have to pull the brake master and let the front of the box drop in order to get the wires out. Must remember that two steps forward and one back is still progress.

Yep, I'm happy. (At least on this topic.)

Is the water going in at the base of the carb? Or between the intake and the head? Or somewhere else? If at the base of the carb, as what you said suggests, then I wouldn't think the intake needs to come off. Can you squirt some ether around and pinpoint it? (Normally I'd suggest brake cleaner or carb cleaner, but I'm remembering your engine being painted up nicely, and they aren't kind to paint.)

Welcome, Jesse! Glad you joined. What part of northern VA? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to put you on it if I had a city. Speaking of that neck of the woods, we used to live in southern PA/northern DE and I frequently drove down to Falls Church on business. So I think I know something about the area. Beautiful truck! You'll have to tell us more about it and your plans for it.

Yes, I think you can.

I think the cab harness is the same across most, if not all, of the engines. The exception might be the IDI, but the glow plug controls are probably an add-on circuit. It is the engine harnesses that changed by family. So maybe I misunderstood? TAB and TAD are emissions relays/valves. Think they are air diverter valves for the AIR system.

I'm looking in the MPC but not finding it very quickly. But, I'll take a stab: There was one for each different engine family as the location of the oil pressure and water temp senders varied by family Then there were variations for engines with and w/o the various relays, like TAB and TAD. Luckily the EEC harnesses were add-on, I think, until you get to the TFI systems. And come to think of it there maybe just differences in the ignition harness for them.

Yeah, if yours fits down in the retainer so it's up against the bearing and can latch, I'd run it that way. I cleaned both surfaces of mine but it won't fit. Do you want my #2, no pun intended, red ring? Is it smaller than yours? Maybe it would fit down in your bearing retainer? It sure looks like it'll be a good seal. And now onto a question and a comment. The question: Does anyone know where the wires are supposed to come through the pedal box? Or are they? I'm struggling to find a way for the wires to get to the brake and clutch pedals as well as the ignition switch. I thought there would be illustrations in the documentation showing the wiring but I can't find it. Also, I think I found another use for seam sealer - the steering column boot. Here's a test fit, and if you look closely you can see two pieces of metal in the firewall. But what you can't see is that there's a third - the firewall brace. And this boot only fits up against the brace, which will allow water to come into the cab between the brace and the firewall. So I'm thinking I'll goo the boot with seam sealer before installing it, and then smooth over the sealer on the engine side of the firewall to seal the boot to the firewall. Anyone have better ideas?

I believe they are paying costs way beyond what they should be for shipping small items. And of course they are passing those costs on to us, as all companies do. But that makes their overall price too expensive, and it is because they are not being careful with the way they ship. I've sent them this message:

I got the above fittings in this morning and thought I'd close this off as the smaller of the two was a perfect fit. Now I can tell my kids to use an '95 E350 power steering pump, but make sure to pull the adapter out before returning the old one as a core.

Let me say it another way. Shipping costs are inevitable. But I will choose to do business with companies that appear to be making an effort to minimize shipping costs. And sending those two little fittings in that big box is not minimizing shipping costs.

Interesting. Not from Ford. May be from a dealership or a region. But the red/white/blue makes me think of American Motors.

fords4life - You may be missing the point. I'm willing to pay Summit reasonable shipping charges. But when they ship a package in a grossly-oversized container that surely cost more to ship than it needed to cost, then I'm not willing to pay for their convenience.

Shaun - What other pics or measurements do you need?

Ok, here's what I found. Pics to follow. Measurements on my two rings and bearing retainers, with #1 being the ones I'm using. And I'm going to run it this way. Red Ring OD: #1: 1.175-1.177" #2: 1.182-1.190" Bearing Retainer ID: #1: 1.167-1.170" #2: 1.160-1.162" Obviously #1 ring in #1 retainer is a tight fit, but it works nicely - as you'll see. #2 ring in #1 retainer fits, but one edge creeps up slightly. In either case, they effectively seal the entrance of crud into the bearing, and when you turn things by hand there's a slight drag. But I'm sure the drag will never be felt when you are turning the wheel. Here's an overall view of how the ring fits in the retainer: And here's the other side, showing it locked in nicely. Scott - yours didn't lock in as it wasn't down in the bearing retainer. If you think about it, if it can lock in one way it'll lock in the other.

I may just do that with the two packages. What I do NOT want to do is to pay them to be free to spend my money shipping it the easy way for them. Thanks.

I was taken aback this morning when I got two of my shipments in. As shown below, I got two - on the left 10 brass plugs from Amazon in an envelope, and on the right two brass fittings from Summit in a huge box. I don't know what the shipping charge was from Amazon as I'm a Prime member, but from Summit it was $10 on a $15 part. I'm very disappointed in Summit as I assume a large portion of the $10 was actual shipping costs, and am considering discontinuing ordering from them due to that. Having said that, does anyone know how to determine the cost of shipping from the bar code? It was USPS in both cases, and I'd like to know what the cost really was.

There is no "exhaust tubing". The exhaust gases come from the head through the intake manifold to a hole where the arrow is pointing, then up into the spacer, back to the EGR valve, and if it is open forward into the air/fuel mix. The tube to the EGR valve is vacuum to open it - and it closes by internal spring pressure. Which is why I said plug that tube off as well as any vacuum port to which it was connected. That way we know the valve is not going to open at idle.

An aftermarket one, surely, as I don't remember there being a factory one. Right?